1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

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BSnB

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

oooo...I do like that post and rail set-up! :D
 

chriscraft254

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

oooo...I do like that post and rail set-up! :D
Thanks man, its far from finished look, but its getting there. The railings have to be removable for flooding. ;) They will all get scribed on the bottom with a number. :)

Its killing me not working on the boat. Gonna have to wire up the bow light or something to get my fix. lol
 

southkogs

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Dock does look nice CC. I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.
 

chriscraft254

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Southkogs,thanks man.

FINALLY got started on the finshing/varnish work for the bow trim. Doing one side at a time, after all the teak I have done, this is a walk in the park. There so small that they coat quikly and I should have it all done by the end of the weekend. Also going to try and get the cabin entry trim done as well that surrounds the doors. Like the other teak on the boat it will all get 8 to 10 coats of spar varnish. The spray cans rock for little stuff like this. :p

You can see in this pic, the memory fibers in the wood have done there job, after wetting it down several times over the last few weeks and the sun baking it, the trim piece are holding there shape perfectly. Thats good news.:)

Lightshow506.jpg


Lightshow507.jpg


Lightshow502.jpg


Batman says "Get that varnishing done, and Don't you even think about touching my bone!"

Lightshow501-1.jpg
 

chriscraft254

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Hey guys, get you opinion on this. I took an old photo that I had a good shot at the stern and played around with a logo. Let me know what you guys think. I chose colors that will plat off the bolster pads and the future surround canvas for the hardtop. Dark teal color. I think it plays well with the teak color.

The lettering on the boat now is off the shelf, so I really want to get this done.:)

009Sppn.jpg


You can see the color of the bolster striping here.

226.jpg
 

lil buggy

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Hey guys, get you opinion on this. I took an old photo that I had a good shot at the stern and played around with a logo. Let me know what you guys think. I chose colors that will plat off the bolster pads and the future surround canvas for the hardtop. Dark teal color. I think it plays well with the teak color.

The lettering on the boat now is off the shelf, so I really want to get this done.:)

009Sppn.jpg
hey skipper,,lol,
diggen it! got 2 things tho, first is can ya stretch it out more sideways?
2nd thought,,,but more obvious, why dont ya carve that out like the logo on the front and make her glow:D
it's above the rubrail even,, that would be sick and finish it off with a pop:D

thats so sweet that the bow teak held the curve. almost there now,
get them business cards ready
 

chriscraft254

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

hey skipper,,lol,
diggen it! got 2 things tho, first is can ya stretch it out more sideways?
2nd thought,,,but more obvious, why dont ya carve that out like the logo on the front and make her glow:D
it's above the rubrail even,, that would be sick and finish it off with a pop:D

thats so sweet that the bow teak held the curve. almost there now,
get them business cards ready

The lettering is on the slanted part of the transom above rub rail, you can only go so tall. So when you stretch it farther across the stern it starts to look funny. I think the size is right for the boat. There is a swim platform back there now also, the lettering really has to stay where I have it in the photo.

Already thought about routering out the name logo like the front, but if I do that there is no turning back. Unlike the logo on the front of the electro box, this is fiberglass. It would have to be routed through about 1 1/2 inches of thickness, then backlit. To much of an opportunty for moisture to get into that area. Every letter would have to be sealed. I have thought this over for months, no go on that one, atleast right now.:p
 

lil buggy

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

gotcha,
that would be past the point of no return, understood.

what about a raised placard that would fit overtop of the transom above the rail,, kinda bolt on. you could make the rgb's at a 45+- backlit facing the fiberglass that would skinny the depth up a bit. and the white gelcoat would accept all the colors of the rgb's, i am not sure that you wouldn't get hotspots tho.
just a thought
 

southkogs

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Whatcha' think of something like this?

CC254_1.jpg
 

klab010

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Hey- that looks awesome- the font is more "distinguished"- i vote for southkogs
 

BSnB

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

I prefer your font and color choice for the boat name, but I lean toward southcogs idea for the Port name. The lighter color that you used for the Port name draws your eye to that rather than where it belongs, IMHO. The script font that southcog used is nice, but if you could find a script that is "more Louisville" I think that would be better. I don't know what I mean by "more Lousville", but I hope you get my drift.

Huh...Dahlfins in the Ohio River...who knew??? :D
 

southkogs

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Whups:facepalm: Sorry to cause a commotion there CC ... more wanted to let you know you've got a fellow boater who does graphics all day ... every day. Glad to help if you want something real custom.

Here's what I did on mine. It's all standard vinyl that was real easy to get cut and put on.
Boat NAME.jpgBoat 4.jpg
On mine, the flags spell out our last name on the left, the boat name is done in an old English because the word is a transliterated Latin word and our home town (no dock in the city limits at all ;)) is in the same font I did "Dahl Fins" on the Photoshop of your boat.
 

chriscraft254

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

gotcha,
that would be past the point of no return, understood.

what about a raised placard that would fit overtop of the transom above the rail,, kinda bolt on. you could make the rgb's at a 45+- backlit facing the fiberglass that would skinny the depth up a bit. and the white gelcoat would accept all the colors of the rgb's, i am not sure that you wouldn't get hotspots tho.
just a thought
Not going to cut into the transom on this boat. And I don't do anything that isn't clean looking, bolting something on is not an option,sorry. feel free to cut a logo into your boat though,lol :p

Whatcha' think of something like this?

View attachment 139028
I have played with the font you used, to plain for me. I have also used dolphins next to the logo, but there may be some rod holders going through on both sides of the name eventually basically for trolling.


I prefer your font and color choice for the boat name, but I lean toward southcogs idea for the Port name. The lighter color that you used for the Port name draws your eye to that rather than where it belongs, IMHO. The script font that southcog used is nice, but if you could find a script that is "more Louisville" I think that would be better. I don't know what I mean by "more Lousville", but I hope you get my drift.

Huh...Dahlfins in the Ohio River...who knew??? :D
lol, DAHL - FINS I get what your saying about the script. Script is hard to read unless you are right on top of it also. The only difference between the port name and the boat name is the port name is not shadowed with a darker color behind it. Just getting the basics together.

Whups:facepalm: Sorry to cause a commotion there CC ... more wanted to let you know you've got a fellow boater who does graphics all day ... every day. Glad to help if you want something real custom.

Here's what I did on mine. It's all standard vinyl that was real easy to get cut and put on.
View attachment 139052View attachment 139053
On mine, the flags spell out our last name on the left, the boat name is done in an old English because the word is a transliterated Latin word and our home town (no dock in the city limits at all ;)) is in the same font I did "Dahl Fins" on the Photoshop of your boat.

Thanks man, I appreciate it. As you know logos are going to be more personal preferance than anything. I literally have played with a 100 different fonts and the one above is what I like. Its far from custom, but its also far from expensive,lol I can spread the letters a little when installed, the program I used didn't really give me that option, so the font should be clearer when installed. I really am in no rush on this, just trying to get things lined out. Going to have to reletter the seahawk logo on the cabin sides also or just leave it off, not sure what to do there yet either. :facepalm:
 

southkogs

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Going to have to reletter the seahawk logo on the cabin sides also or just leave it off, not sure what to do there yet either. :facepalm:

Told ya' what goes on either side of the cuddy:
SFC2.jpg
Get the glowin' going ... a little "star fleet" radio chatter over the loud hailer ... ya' know you wanna'. :D
 

lil buggy

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

how about a frosted, or unfrosted for that matter , glass piece with your logo on top, trimmed out in 1/4 or 1/2 in teak just enough to hide the led's mounted along the edges, that would light the glass up and the letters would be dark instead of light?

not sure you get what i am thinken here. but if you put led's on the edge of glass it will light right up especially with the white background. and no i haven't given up the fight yet:D, lol

and remember your front gunwhale trim is bolt on:eek::D,,, lol
 

chriscraft254

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

how about a frosted, or unfrosted for that matter , glass piece with your logo on top, trimmed out in 1/4 or 1/2 in teak just enough to hide the led's mounted along the edges, that would light the glass up and the letters would be dark instead of light?

not sure you get what i am thinken here. but if you put led's on the edge of glass it will light right up especially with the white background. and no i haven't given up the fight yet:D, lol

Ok, let me think, how do I say this politely, ummm, umm, O' I got it!!! NOT GOING TO HAPPEN GOOFY!!!! lol:D

and remember your front gunwhale trim is bolt on:eek::D,,, lol
Not true, the bow trim is "screw on" and the screws will not be seen after dowel plugs are installed, sanded down and coated to match the rest of the trim boards.;)
 

chriscraft254

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Here is a pic of a few pieces of bow trim reinstalled. the backside varnish is finished. Once all is installed, the trim pieces will get profiled further and dowel plugged. Those areas will then get revarnished and then on to coating the entire trim pieces in place with atleast 5 more coats of varnish or until it is a glass like finish. Will apply a very small lifeseal caulk bead to the top edge when done to keep any moisture from draining behind the trim.

Also for those that are wondering, the lights were de-installed and will be bedded in epoxy or silocone/lifeseal to adhere them again to the wood underneath.

Lightshow517.jpg


Lightshow519.jpg
 

BSnB

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

With or without lights, Budd, that teak trim is outstnding!!! I might steal that idea!:cool:
 

chriscraft254

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

With or without lights, Budd, that teak trim is outstnding!!! I might steal that idea!:cool:

Thanks man, Part of the reason I post here is to help others with ideas they can use, so feel free to steal anything you want.:)
 

chriscraft254

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Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Here's where I am at on the bow trim.

Went back and snugged all screws down and using a forstner bit, drilled out over the screw locations carefully with a 1/2 inch bit.

Then applied titebond III waterproof glue to dowels and installed into all the holes.

Using a dremel multi-tool, cut dowels flush and then sanded to smooth finish.

One of the reasons I only did one side is I was not sure that the areas that got sanded would blend in with the rest of the varnish when recoated. The other side may just get varnished on the back side, installed and then doweled and finished with varnish after installation. Will see in the next day or two wether or not varnishing the face was a waste of time. No problem to belt sand it off in place if I have to get back down to wood then varnish.

I chose larger dowels just in case I ever have to take one out. Larger dowels will show up more, but I don't mind the look.

Drilled and starting to install dowels.
Lightshow524.jpg


Dowels installed
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Cutting dowel off with flat cut blade on dremel multi-tool. This worked perfect for this application. Multi-tools are the shizzat!
Lightshow543.jpg


You can see here after a coat of varnish, the area around the dowels has not darkened up, so will just have to see if more coats will do the job, or I will just sand it all off the face and then recoat.
Lightshow549.jpg
 
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