1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

UPS just pulled up with the Starboard piece...wow, that was quick!. What a nice matt finish it has, will make a perfect dash. I got the gauges out of the original acrylic piece, did it one guage at a time and reconnected each one as I did it. Now I have a spider of gauges, but the wiring is still in place. Now I can make the template, drill the holes, and put them back one at a time to keep control of the wires.

Still cleaning the gauges but they are coming out ok, except the hour meter, its corroded so ill replace that with a new one.

Will post some pics when I get a chance.

 

[mr300z87]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

Hey zool, nice progress and nice weather here the last couple days. Today was awesome to bad work always gets in the way of my good fun. I got some work done on my project this past weekend. Now I got to spend some hard earned $$s on parts. You know bust out another thousand. Stay warm we got another deep freeze coming. Mike

 

[Mud Puppy]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

UPS just pulled up with the Starboard piece...wow, that was quick!. What a nice matt finish it has, will make a perfect dash.

Will post some pics when I get a chance.

Yes Please if you get a chance. My dash in in my cross hairs to "Freshen Up" (if time and green holds out). Real interested in the outcome on yours, that is if you don't mind!?

 

[archbuilder]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

I'm interested to see you build this out of starboard, I have never had a chance to play with it.

 

[Imperial-cruiser capt]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

I stumbled across your threads on the asi restoration, 4 years ago I bought an imperial cruiser, other than poor finish on the old gelcoat, it was in pretty nice shape. I did paint the boat with automotive base clear, and had great results. The boat is nt left for extended periods of time in the water, (few days at a time when we go camping) this is my first post, I'll try to attach pictures before and after

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

Hey zool, nice progress and nice weather here the last couple days. Today was awesome to bad work always gets in the way of my good fun. I got some work done on my project this past weekend. Now I got to spend some hard earned $$s on parts. You know bust out another thousand. Stay warm we got another deep freeze coming. Mike

Thanks Mike, yea, that was a taste of the good stuff...too bad it didn't last...im ready for sure!

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

I stumbled across your threads on the asi restoration, 4 years ago I bought an imperial cruiser, other than poor finish on the old gelcoat, it was in pretty nice shape. I did paint the boat with automotive base clear, and had great results. The boat is nt left for extended periods of time in the water, (few days at a time when we go camping) this is my first post, I'll try to attach pictures before and after

Welcome to Iboats drydock Capt....and wow, that camper/boat setup is a big rig! LOL...Looks like you have a narrower beam, and don't need the permit to trailer it...paint looks great

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

Mp and Arch, Ill post up some pics when I cut it, I just want to go get a few new hole saws with a fine tooth..I got big ol rusty wood cutters. The black starboard has a slight texture to it, and some elegance, like an audio face plate or a mid-atlantic rack plate....

Im gonna clean up the helm pod this weekend, and mock up the new panel. I may order some more for the switch panels....get some power to it and see if the lights work.

See you guys soon...

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

Mp and Arch, Ill post up some pics when I cut it, I just want to go get a few new hole saws with a fine tooth..I got big ol rusty wood cutters. The black starboard has a slight texture to it, and some elegance, like an audio face plate or a mid-atlantic rack plate....

Hi Z,
Just wanted to throw out a tip on cutting your new starboard for the gauges...
Most 2" and 3" gauges are NOT those measurements...that is usually a faceplate/dial dimension...the actual holes can be as much as 1/4" or more larger, some may be even smaller...
You can save some green by just drilling a hole for a jig saw blade, you can put a couple of layers of masking tape on the foot of the jigsaw to protect the surface of the starboard, or cut the openings from the back side... cut inside the line, then finish it off with a drum sander on a rotary tool...
More labor, but the 3" hole saw alone will set you back a bit, and its no guarantee that you won't still have to do some trimming to get the gauge to fit the hole...
Also, the cut doesn't have to be perfect, since the bezel on the gauge gives you a pretty good fudge factor...
Just a 1/2 cent thought...
Happy Friday!

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

Hi Z,
Just wanted to throw out a tip on cutting your new starboard for the gauges...
Most 2" and 3" gauges are NOT those measurements...that is usually a faceplate/dial dimension...the actual holes can be as much as 1/4" or more larger, some may be even smaller...
You can save some green by just drilling a hole for a jig saw blade, you can put a couple of layers of masking tape on the foot of the jigsaw to protect the surface of the starboard, or cut the openings from the back side... cut inside the line, then finish it off with a drum sander on a rotary tool...
More labor, but the 3" hole saw alone will set you back a bit, and its no guarantee that you won't still have to do some trimming to get the gauge to fit the hole...
Also, the cut doesn't have to be perfect, since the bezel on the gauge gives you a pretty good fudge factor...
Just a 1/2 cent thought...
Happy Friday!

Thanks Gus, and I think youre right...the larger holes are an off size, so ill go that route for those. The small holes are 2", and I think I have a saw for those....plus, theres nine 2" holes, so that will speed that up a bit..I also have the drum disks on hand already....so no trip to the store

I also found a much better source for the starboard...turns out I could have got the dash piece cut to exact size, for $11 plus shipping...Dag Nabbit!...
King Plastic - Cut to Size Black King Starboard Plastic Sheet #13770-42004

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

Update:

Ok, im gonna update some of the progress on the helm.

The dash piece came well packed, and with instructions advising against a lead pencil for tracing, which I ignored since its al I had.



I don't know how well this will show, but this is the texture.



These are the pricey trim gauges I started cleaning up..the one on the left seems to have what looks like led crystal or something on the bottom of the screen..i guess we'll see if it still works.

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

The helm pod is a bit of a mess, and theres spider cracks, and other blemishes. Its gonna have to be all faired out with the rest, but I cleaned it up some with some simple green, so I could do some rough cuts and fit the starboard.







The cup holders were cauked in, and are brittle, the cracked apart when removing them...I boats sells them tho..hope theyre stanbdard size.

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

I used the old cutout as a template, and just traced it out.





And cut the perimeter to fit.

 

[Mud Puppy]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

Z; wish we were just down the road a piece. We could set it up in the mill and cut everything out on it. All we would have to do is clean up the square corners a little for the trim gauges and TAH-DAH!

Also for what it's worth, I have tapped the back side of plastics before and used a cut a "V" notch in a piece of plywood to help support the plastic when cutting it. With the back taped, you can spin the plastic laminate in addition to turning the jig saw. Really helps cut down on fatigue and frustration. Plus on Formica, I always used a hollow ground "up-cut" blade with a real large tooth count, but it chips pretty bad anyway. A scrolling jig is ideal as you can leave the jig saw in one position and just turn the knob which turns the blade.

Looking good so far!

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

I cut out a few of the 2" guage holes, but it walked about 1/4" nw of the target without using a press. Not a big deal, I just have to compensate and di so on the second cut. But its a bit unruly because the pilot bit is about 3/8..and walks on the starboard. I stopped, and im gonna pick up a new, smaller bit, for the other 7 2" holes. The square holes and the large ones ill cut with the jig saw and sand like Gus suggested, its really the only way to do the others, they are off sized.



There was enough left over to fit the switch panels, they are just rough cut in, and need routing to tru them. Plus the remainder will work good for the side panel for a cell charger, and LED switches.

 

[Mud Puppy]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

But its a bit unruly because the pilot bit is about 3/8..and walks on the starboard. I stopped, and im gonna pick up a new, smaller bit, for the other 7 2" holes.

If you have a piece of it left, you could try a small paddle bit or they also have a flat bottom bit with two spurs and one cutter which works pretty good. I know they make Forstner bits down to 3/8", but they are pricey. A step bit might work too, just have to drill in the center in case you go past the step that you want to stop at.

And most definitely, the sanding drums are the way to go and a real good small file for the corners.

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

Z; wish we were just down the road a piece. We could set it up in the mill and cut everything out on it. All we would have to do is clean up the square corners a little for the trim gauges and TAH-DAH!

Also for what it's worth, I have tapped the back side of plastics before and used a cut a "V" notch in a piece of plywood to help support the plastic when cutting it. With the back taped, you can spin the plastic laminate in addition to turning the jig saw. Really helps cut down on fatigue and frustration. Plus on Formica, I always used a hollow ground "up-cut" blade with a real large tooth count, but it chips pretty bad anyway. A scrolling jig is ideal as you can leave the jig saw in one position and just turn the knob which turns the blade.

Looking good so far!

Thanks, and Yea, doing it freehand is a pain, but I just want it done, it sits under a layer of gasketed acrylic, so it was never really true from the get go. The funny thing is, it was 1/8" acrylic, laminated with a wood vaneer, that was painted black....it was completely delaminated as was the side switch panels..someone should have told the engineers about the perils of gluing to acrylic.....

 

[archbuilder]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

I have the strange feeling you are working on R2D2.....lol!

 

[zool]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

I have the strange feeling you are working on R2D2.....lol!

Well, the Sand People sure did a number on this droid.....

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1988 Imperial 280sf engine swap and restoration (pics)

2 down and only 12 to go ! Progress is progress ! You leaving the R2 white ?