1987 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II - First Time Rebuild - Floor, Engine, Dash, etc.

[ACon977]

That'll work. Just make sure you clean up that glass you're gonna bond to.

Yes Sir! That was the plan. I just wanted to dry fit everything first, I still need to coat the bottom with CSM and then grind a majority of the hull to have a clean surface to adhere to.

 

[ACon977]

Ok, Here's how I did it. If you want the short story, my removable center section is the whole piece. Here's why:

We carpeted in a rim to live the motor box about 3/8 of an inch. This was done for two reasons, 1. it keeps things from rolling into the bilge when you're working with the box open or removed and 2. the spark arrestor was actually hitting the engine box, so no clearance.

I'm attaching 4 photos so you can see our procedure. What you can't see is that in the back of the engine, the engine box hinges actually mount on to the newly installed lip that we put it. This has another beneficial effect. When this motorbox was in my cousin's boat, someone would always catch a toe on them when moving around the boat. Now that they're lifted slightly above floor level no one has busted their toe on them yet in my boat.

The center floor section actually slides under the lip rail that we installed, and if you look in the pictures, it runs all the way to the tank with just enough clearance for the blower tube to get up and over. To remove that center section, I have to take both pieces of the back seat out, and then it lifts right out. And, I've had to do that on the lake...when we sheared the prop shaft. But that's a different story.

So by looking at your pictures, and I got the gist even though they were out of order, your engine cover is actually mounted wide enough to mount to the side pieces of floor. I suppose I could do this, I was planning on putting them back where they were before to avoid drilling more holes, but at this point.. its just a few more holes lol.

Interesting thought with the raised lip. I certainly need to check clearance, but I would be worried about mounting the hinges to such a small piece. I would think that this would pull out after some time, the engine cover is not super light.

 

[ACon977]

Noone paints their stringers under the deck. Can if they want. Is this what you are talking about? If the sun is pounding away at them while your working just throw a tarp over them.
Read the specs or ask the supplier. Most have UV protec. built in.

I wasnt thinking under the floor, but was wondering about under the engine. which will be covered during use. I wasnt too worried, just realized that I never pained it.

 

[ACon977]

That looks really good!

When I was removing my deck, I realized that the employees putting it in that day was either hung over, or still drunk. On one side, it sat nicely on this little ledge up against the side of the boat - all the way up the until about 3 feet from the bow. The other side - was about an inch away from the side until about 3 feet from the bow. At that point, it dropped down below the ledge about an inch (which reminds me, I need to ask a question about this over in my thread). On the one side, it was nicely bonded to the hull. The other side had just globs of some kind of resin filler (not PB, it has no fibers in it). Its been horrible trying to get it all cleaned up. But I figure no matter what I do with the new deck - it will be better than that!

There is all sorts of stuff that made me scratch my head pulling this thing apart. I understand a 1/2" gap (which is what I have in 2 spots) but the huge discrepancies are crazy to me. I have to take a picture of the front bracing under the cap.. it made me laugh and then sigh.

 

[AlabamaNewbie]

it made me laugh and then sigh.

Like the random "curtain o' glass" or the "oops I cut the stringer to short. I'll just throw some fiber over the end and the boss will never know...."

 

[ACon977]

Like the random "curtain o' glass" or the "oops I cut the stringer to short. I'll just throw some fiber over the end and the boss will never know...."

Phew! Those are pretty bad! But you see that kind of stuff all over these threads, seems nuts to me, but also makes me feel good that all the boats coming out of the iBoats dock are gonna be much more reliable than when they limped out of the factory.

 

[AlabamaNewbie]

Yeah there should be a sticker you can put on your boat that says "iBoats Forum Certified" that the mods send you after you splash your rebuild. That way other boaters will know your boat is safe, and if you decide to sell, you have proof of what is under the deck for resale value.

 

[ACon977]

Yeah there should be a sticker you can put on your boat that says "iBoats Forum Certified" that the mods send you after you splash your rebuild. That way other boaters will know your boat is safe, and if you decide to sell, you have proof of what is under the deck for resale value.

This is a fantastic idea.

 

[Timr71]

So by looking at your pictures, and I got the gist even though they were out of order, your engine cover is actually mounted wide enough to mount to the side pieces of floor. I suppose I could do this, I was planning on putting them back where they were before to avoid drilling more holes, but at this point.. its just a few more holes lol.

Interesting thought with the raised lip. I certainly need to check clearance, but I would be worried about mounting the hinges to such a small piece. I would think that this would pull out after some time, the engine cover is not super light.

Not exactly. I'll try to get you some additional pictures this weekend when I'm on the boat. Also, that plastic wood we used holds screws like crazy. I didn't move the hinge locations from their stock location.

 

[ACon977]

Not exactly. I'll try to get you some additional pictures this weekend when I'm on the boat. Also, that plastic wood we used holds screws like crazy. I didn't move the hinge locations from their stock location.

Ok if you could that would be great!

I bet it holds the screws, I would just worry about the torsion on that piece and the floor, but I guess if thats secure its just an extension of the floor. idk. Just looking at the coupling I was realizing that it may make sense to leave that open. and DUMBASS me took pictures of everything but the location of that floor piece.

 

[ACon977]

Well maybe not that much of a dumbass, after I called myself out I figured going back and looking at pictures would be a good idea. lol.

i found these two, which shows the cutout for your hand... Im wondering if the hinges actually do mount to the floor on the outside of that piece.

Tough to see but sounds like I need to put the engine cover back in the boat and just see where those hinges line up.

 

[Woodonglass]

Are you using Poly or Epoxy. Poly is an air inhibited cured resin. If not sealed with wax or plastic it takes several weeks for it to fully cure. Epoxy, is chemically cured. The catalyst does the job in 24-48 hours. But..Epoxy has NO UV resistance and must be protected by whatever means you desire, (Gelcoat, Paint, Marine Varnish, etc...)

 

[ACon977]

Are you using Poly or Epoxy. Poly is an air inhibited cured resin. If not sealed with wax or plastic it takes several weeks for it to fully cure. Epoxy, is chemically cured. The catalyst does the job in 24-48 hours. But..Epoxy has NO UV resistance and must be protected by whatever means you desire, (Gelcoat, Paint, Marine Varnish, etc...)

Using Poly WOG, I dont plan on being out on the water in a few weeks so I think we should be fine with a slow cure time. The floor will be coated with that paint Micky recommended so that should help the deck surface at least.

The concern was under the engine cover where I mounted to on the stringers. But I think the consensus is that its fine. The rest of the stringers will be covered by the deck and shouldnt be seeing the light of day while I own the boat!

 

[archbuilder]

Sounds like you have it sorted out, but I used Bilge coat on mine. So far I have been really impressed, very hard and easy to clean oil off of it. (yes I dropped the freaking quart when filling the tilt tim!)

 

[Woodonglass]

I agree BilgeKote is Really good stuff. $25 a quart is Not that bad either. I used the Rustoleum with hardener and so far its doing Ok. I will say it does stain a bit!!

 

[ACon977]

Sounds like you have it sorted out, but I used Bilge coat on mine. So far I have been really impressed, very hard and easy to clean oil off of it. (yes I dropped the freaking quart when filling the tilt tim!)

HAHA well although my hands are SUPER steady and I never drop ANYTHING..... :lol: jk, Im an average joe and will certainly drop some stuff, its better to be prepared to have something thats able to be cleaned.

I may look into that bilge coat stuff. if its only $25 a quart, that would be nice.

 

[89 resorter]

I also used the Bilge coat in the past on my Supra Comp and more recently on my Coronado. It held up well on the Supra through many oil change messes but the jury is still out on the Coronado since it is still sitting upside down for gel coating and paint..... maybe the fact that it was been hanging on the bilge while the boat has sat upside down for two years is a good sign LOL

 

[mickyryan]

Sounds like you have it sorted out, but I used Bilge coat on mine. So far I have been really impressed, very hard and easy to clean oil off of it. (yes I dropped the freaking quart when filling the tilt tim!)

hahaha i dropped a quart today filling power steering, you know , it had to go under the oil pan right? nose down towards stern , luckily i had a bucket outside to catch anything that might happen like that

 

[ACon977]

Sorry guys, havent been able to get pictures or start glassing the deck pieces quite yet. We had kickball playoffs last night, what a riot, freaking beer league sports. Its cup in hand and always ends up being a good time. Last place in kickball and second place in the flipcup tournament. Definitely shows what we are there for (hint: our team name was "Here for Beer") :lol:

Tonight I should get around to either glassing the underside of the deck, or grinding down the sides to get ready for the floor and my floor paint. Either way, Ill have some sort of an update for ya tonight!

trying to keep this recent motivation rollin'!

 

[ACon977]

Well not as much progress as I would have liked. Got some stuff cleaned up in the garage and realized I had just enough CSM to do 1 of my side pieces.

I have some other, heavier CSM that I'll try and use tomorrow. But looks like I'm headed back to the fiberglass store next week.