1987 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II - First Time Rebuild - Floor, Engine, Dash, etc.

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ACon977

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Also question for the people with bigger brains than I.

​​​​​​After rebuilding the carb and doing some tweaking, you told me it may happen... We may want to buy a new one. The choke is opening too much on warmup and running our mixture too lean. But it's also painfully inconsistent. The accelerator pump is also not functioning as it should, which I don't understand. It seems to be stuck in the closed position.

We currently have a 4160. Any thoughts on a carb that would work on a 351? Or is the 4160 the best bet?
 

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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they make fiberglass tubing for exhaust esp for the center set engines , you use flexible exhaust tubing down to the fiberglass that runs to back sometimes into a muffler then out . [h=1]google Centek Vernatube Hi-Temp Fiberglass Marine Exhaust Tubing[/h]
 

Timr71

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Yep, what he said. I have the fiberglass exhaust tubing in my boat. My cousin ordered it. So I'm not much help there.

Carb wise - the 4160 is the way to go as far as I know. There's a guy - Peter Biever aka Mr. Mastercraft on the teamtalk board. He will rebuild your 4160 or sell you a refirbed unit. You might reach out to him. You can also find him on Facebook.
 

ACon977

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Yep, what he said. I have the fiberglass exhaust tubing in my boat. My cousin ordered it. So I'm not much help there.

Carb wise - the 4160 is the way to go as far as I know. There's a guy - Peter Biever aka Mr. Mastercraft on the teamtalk board. He will rebuild your 4160 or sell you a refirbed unit. You might reach out to him. You can also find him on Facebook.

Thanks Tim!
We ended up finding a sacraficial carb for 100 from someone local. tore it apart, transferred a couple components and its working exactly how it should now! We went skiing for the first time and it did great. We didnt have a spotter, so no pics unfortunately, but glad its running well.
 

ACon977

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Newest concern... the boat cruises pretty well up to 35mph. but at that point it will start to porpoise, until i bring it back down to 32-33mph.

My only thought with this is that the excess weight I put into the stringers and floor was on the back half of the boat.. Short of putting bags of sand in the front, what other options are there? Has anyone experienced this after their rebuild?

I also have heard of people adjusting their trim plates, which i may have? but its a rigid piece of steel thats adhered to the back of the boat.
 

Timr71

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Hi Austin,

This porpoising issue is known and not unique to Ski Centurions...meaning others have had issues with Mastercrafts etc. It is definitely a weight issue compounded by water flow. The boat is obviously very sensitive to weight distribution and the mechanics of it are totally based on the fact that the prop shaft comes out of the boat at an angle.

The simplest fix is exactly what you said. more weight in the nose. You can use bags of sand. Or, you can go to wakemakers website and look at lead that is used as ballast in wake boats. Or, you can buy a ballast bag and fill it up with water. That gives you some adjust-ability.

So, Mastercraft fixed this by putting a hook at the end of the bow. Shaped like a reverse spoiler, the hook was fiber-glassed in to the hull of the boat and it forced the nose down through the use of water pressure. There's a thread over on Team Talk (mastercraft board) about how to make one of those if you like.

Also, as you mentioned, the cavatation plate on a ski centurion is fixed. You could take that off and re-attach it with a piano hinge. Then, you could hook it up to a pair of lenco actuators and that would allow you to trim the boat slightly. Just know that if you have to have that down some to get to 36 mph (if that's your preferred slalom speed) It will have an impact on the slalom wake. But, if you slalom at 34 and that's just below the porpoising speed and you add this adjustable plate just for cruising around the lake, then that might work for you too.

When we built my boat, we speculated that our rebuilt structure that we used to make the seating area in the open bow weighed more than what was there previously. That had the desired effect of causing the nose to ride even lower in the water. As a result, less of the back of the boat is in the water as it pivoted along the center axis of the boat based on front to back weight distribution. This generated a better slalom wake. Everything is a trade off, the boat is pushing a bit more water with nose down a bit, and that adds height to the ramp of the wake, but with less effect from the back of the boat everything is soft and small. Weight in the front can act against all the weight in the rear that is present when you have a full tank of gas sitting back there.

I don't know if this does, but I hope some of this helps. Enjoy!

-Tim
 

Baylinerchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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Congrats on the splash and props on the proposal. Great looking boat. As with all of our boats, we are never really EVER finished. Enjoy!!
 
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