1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

[rickryder]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

can anyone tell me what motor I have ? I have looked at all kind of site and get different info. I belive I have a Alpha 1 gen 1 transom assembly and drive shaft . looking for the coorect info somif I need to order parts I would like to get the correct ones

Thanks again


mercruser 1988
transom 0B75986
Drive tran 0B930650

on the engine block i see
GM 6269732 (244)
firing order
165482

sticker on the vavle covert ( is there another place I cold find this info )
serial # faded / not there
model 4.3L
rated 175hp
Displacement 212CID

Found this on another site....The serial number tag is located near the STARTER, by the flywheel housing; or, on the ROCKER ARM or FLAME ARRESTOR COVER.

http://www.perfprotech.com/blog/articles/mercruiser-serial-numbers

 

[Dollars]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Update time !!!! to scrap or move foward!!!!!!

well i got the motor out as planned. looking over it i have found a few issues, and not sure if i should scrap the project or move foward .
- Flywheel rusted and full of water
- starter was out ( do to water in fly wheel ) also had a started rebuild on friday 160.00$
- Left side cylinder head has a hair line crack ( what could have caused that)
- right /left manifolds have cracks as well ( thats how water was getting in the boat?)
- Tilt motor has a milky oil in the container
- drive shaft rusted (drive shaft bellows full of water)

this is what I found so far besides the floor and interior. just thoes two est. cost 2k+ now the motor which I thought was in great condition turned out not to be ... Any suggetions

 

[StevenT]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Update time !!!! to scrap or move foward!!!!!!

well i got the motor out as planned. looking over it i have found a few issues, and not sure if i should scrap the project or move foward .
- Flywheel rusted and full of water
- starter was out ( do to water in fly wheel ) also had a started rebuild on friday 160.00$
- Left side cylinder head has a hair line crack ( what could have caused that)
- right /left manifolds have cracks as well ( thats how water was getting in the boat?)
- Tilt motor has a milky oil in the container
- drive shaft rusted (drive shaft bellows full of water)

this is what I found so far besides the floor and interior. just thoes two est. cost 2k+ now the motor which I thought was in great condition turned out not to be ... Any suggetions

I would scrap it for sure. Save the starter and any drive parts that are salvageable.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

I must agree. Bad motor...Project Ends!!

 

[Dollars]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

..... :-( its looking that way )-: .........

 

[Dollars]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

yup looking that way more and more not able to find replacement parts. most of them obsolet . the only other thing is to buy a newer motor 2k+ by the time im done well over 6k... time to break the news to the wife and kids.

 

[rickryder]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Sorry to hear the motor is bad......Good luck with what ever you choose to do.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Not sure how much $$$$ you have into it, but I agree that if you got bad boat and bad engine, there is not a leg to stand on.

Your best bet would be to sell the outdrive, engine parts, trailer, etc. to try to cover any investment you have or maybe get some cash for another run at it.

The problem with the older boats is that they often have met their demise in some fashion, and the person selling it is all smiles.

 

[Dollars]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Afternoon guys we still have a pulse..

Yesterday before the Daytona race I deiced to put the starter on and see if it would start. It cranked and sounded like it wanted to start but would not kick over . I remembered that I disconnected a couple of ground wires and a connection next to the manifold . I tried to jump again and now the start won't turn. So I removed the plug and wires I connected and Im still not getting power to the starter . Any suggestion on what I shorted or what to look for? ( see picture's )

This week ( if I can get the start to cranking again) I'm planning check the compression, spark plugs, wires, ect. to see if they are in testing condition. What I'm wanting to do is test the motor and make sure its really broken and not worth fixing . I really hate to give up right now. If after the motor testing and the results are bad then , I will just lay her to rest.. :-(

Also Is there a way for me to test if my fuel pump is working corectly? I believe I'm not getting gas to the motor. Thats why its not cranking over. ( When I first was able to get the starter to turn the motor. )

 

[Dollars]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

1. I forgot to mention I talked to maintaince guy here at work and he told me that the line on the Cylinder cover ( dont know the correct name ) could be just from the mold from when they make the cast for this part, since the line is straight along the seem and then in a angle . Worse case I could get it rewelded . Opinions anyone?

2 The drive shaft has all this rust . the drive shaft had water in the bellows since it has rust would I need to change this drive out two or or could I clean it up and replace the drive bellow and move foward?

Once again sorry If I seen to be a pain , Im learning and I apprecate all the help and advise you guys are giving me.

Mike B

 

[tpenfield]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Upper picture is ignition amplier ( I think) and is fine to be connected along with the ground wires (should be connected) . . .

Lower picture looks like temp sender or temp alarm switch. It does not sound like you were not powering up the ignition.

The round connector (up top of the engine) actually has the connections that you would need to power the ignition and to momentarily activate the starter. Check the wiring diagram fro your particular engine to see with pin #'s are the right ones

Then you just connect the 12V to the main lug at the starter and the ground to the flywheel housing. Here is a picture of the set-up of my Merc 454, showing the wires at the connector (top of the engine) and the power leads to starter and flywheel housing. . . .

 

[tpenfield]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

1. I forgot to mention I talked to maintaince guy here at work and he told me that the line on the Cylinder cover ( dont know the correct name ) could be just from the mold from when they make the cast for this part, since the line is straight along the seem and then in a angle . Worse case I could get it rewelded . Opinions anyone?

2 The drive shaft has all this rust . the drive shaft had water in the bellows since it has rust would I need to change this drive out two or or could I clean it up and replace the drive bellow and move foward?

Once again sorry If I seen to be a pain , Im learning and I apprecate all the help and advise you guys are giving me.

Mike B


View attachment 183027View attachment 183028

What "line" and "cylinder cover" are you talking about? I do not see that in your picture . . .

the drive shaft looks pissa though . . . Grab the bucket of marine grease for that.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

1. I forgot to mention I talked to maintaince guy here at work and he told me that the line on the Cylinder cover ( dont know the correct name ) could be just from the mold from when they make the cast for this part, since the line is straight along the seem and then in a angle . Worse case I could get it rewelded . Opinions anyone?

2 The drive shaft has all this rust . the drive shaft had water in the bellows since it has rust would I need to change this drive out two or or could I clean it up and replace the drive bellow and move foward?

Once again sorry If I seen to be a pain , Im learning and I apprecate all the help and advise you guys are giving me.

Mike B


View attachment 183027View attachment 183028

Are we talking about the starboard side cylinder head and the line of rust ???

I *think* the ends of the cylinder head are machined smooth for a good mounting surface for the 'bolt-on' stuff that often gets attached to the front of the engines. So, it would be more likely a crack than a casting imperfection. It is a bit hard to tell, but if you can get at it with a scribe or something . . .

 

[Dollars]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Tpenfield,
you are correct, Here is the info I found for the cylinder head, Im going to get a drimel tool and clean it up to see if it is a crack or a imperfection. Also I belive I found the wire diagram to my engine and I will try that jumper between pins , and I will connect the Ignition Apmlifier ground wires and see if it will start . what are the odds there is a fuse in the lines that could be stoping me from getting power now to the starter?

 

[tpenfield]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

There is a 50 amp (IIRC) circuit breaker near the master solenoid. The battery + lead gets connected directly to the starter/slave solenoid lug. Voltage to the starter 'pin' on the connector trips the master solenoid.

The thing about running the engine out of the boat, which is what you have pictured, is that you want to make sure that you can shut things down in a hurry, just in case the engine does some crazy things . . . like tries to walk away or do a dance.

You want to have things wired up in a similar fashion as to how it exists when in the boat.

 

[Alwhite00]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Wow, You must really be attached to this boat. I wouldn't reccommend welding any cast iron on an engine, I guess you could replace the heads if the rest is ok??? After reading this - "yup looking that way more and more not able to find replacement parts. most of them obsolet . the only other thing is to buy a newer motor 2k+ by the time im done well over 6k... time to break the news to the wife and kids."
I take it the wife & kids didn't take the news too well?

LK

 

[matt167]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

4.3L heads should be dime a dozen. They can come off a truck too, you may need to mod the intake manifold to fit on heads if they are different. I'm not 100% on 4.3's as they did have a few changes in a short year span. 262 CID is the displacement of the 4.3L.. They may not be cracked at all, some heads do have casting flash that looks like cracks.

Boats not really worth it, but if you can save the engine/drive, you can probably have a nice boat for less than $5k doing it yourself.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Yea, I had to break "the news" to the wife (& kids) last year about my engine hydro-locking and it would be about $6K to fix.

She said . . . "not worth it, get a new boat" . . .

 

[Dollars]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Tpenfield,
I pushed this button in and it still doest work. Will there be a fuse behind this button ? Could I have fried my starter my by not having the " The round connector (up top of the engine) actually has the connections that you would need to power the ignition and to momentarily activate the starter. Check the wiring diagram fro your particular engine to see with pin #'s are the right ones "

Also did you run a starter switch to the round connector to turn it off to prevent it from dancing or was that just the jumper? I seen a couple of video on YT and they just close the door to the carb.

 

[Dollars]

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville 20ft

Tpenfield,
Sorry if I seen to be a bug here but I wanted to see if you could verify connections before I try it.

you told me to " The round connector (up top of the engine) actually has the connections that you would need to power the ignition and to momentarily activate the starter. Check the wiring diagram fro your particular engine to see with pin #'s are the right ones

Then you just connect the 12V to the main lug at the starter and the ground to the flywheel housing. Here is a picture of the set-up of my Merc 454, showing the wires at the connector (top of the engine) and the power leads to starter and flywheel housing. . . .


Looking at the diagram I believe I need to connect 6-7 to make the connection work as you suggested. Would I be correct ?