1984 Starcraft 16ft Glutton for Punishment [Splashed July 2019]

[SHSU]

If i remember right it was several days

Man I wish!!!!!! Admiral and I are on Month 2 of riveting....

 

[jbcurt00]

@jbcurt00

Can you please move this thread to the Starcraft Rebuild forum?
Thanks

SHSU

Moved

Just to be clear, this was in the Resto/Rebuild forum. This is the Starcraft Owners forum, so there may be a glass boat or 2 as well. Some (many? most?) SC owners choose to document their resto here, esp the tin boat fellas

Either forum is a good place to document your work.

Occasionally, even though they are active members, some tin boat guys will miss a new boat/rebuild/topic because its in the main resto forum, rather then here.

W the current vB5 forum software Todays Posts feature, I use that new posts list as my bookmark for iboats, and rarely go the the main forum or any specific forum/sub-forum homepage. So no matter what forum, if a new post is made in ANY topic ANYWHERE on the forum, I see them listed in the Todays Posts list.

Unless I go 24hrs w out checking in, I dont miss many new posts or the updates to that topics.

 

[SHSU]

Moved

Just to be clear, this was in the Resto/Rebuild forum. This is the Starcraft Owners forum, so there may be a glass boat or 2 as well. Some (many? most?) SC owners choose to document their resto here, esp the tin boat fellas

Either forum is a good place to document your work.

Occasionally, even though they are active members, some tin boat guys will miss a new boat/rebuild/topic because its in the main resto forum, rather then here.

W the current vB5 forum software Todays Posts feature, I use that new posts list as my bookmark for iboats, and rarely go the the main forum or any specific forum/sub-forum homepage. So no matter what forum, if a new post is made in ANY topic ANYWHERE on the forum, I see them listed in the Todays Posts list.

Unless I go 24hrs w out checking in, I dont miss many new posts or the updates to that topics.

Yep, this is where I wanted it. Appreciate the move

 

[SHSU]

So I got my knee bracket back from the welder and really like what he did. I will post pictures once I can, but he made a comment I wanted to run by ya'll. I know the consensus is not to use bed liner; however, he suggested I paint the knee bracket to prevent future oxidation of it with bed liner. What do ya'll think? Good idea, bad idea, indifferent...

 

[Watermann]

You asked for it. :lol: I have a couple questions. Why would anyone care if unseen aluminum oxidizes? Why do so many people think pick up truck bedliner is the savior of aluminum boats? Bottom line is bedliner will fail and it can cause serious corrosion issues when it does.

The entire bottom of my SS is bare AL and it's a beautiful natural oxidized aluminum gray color now.

 

[SHSU]

You asked for it. :lol: I have a couple questions. Why would anyone care if unseen aluminum oxidizes? Why do so many people think pick up truck bedliner is the savior of aluminum boats? Bottom line is bedliner will fail and it can cause serious corrosion issues when it does.

The entire bottom of my SS is bare AL and it's a beautiful natural oxidized aluminum gray color now.

LOL, I know I did!!!! Figured that would be the answer but ya never know until you ask

 

[SHSU]

As promised here are the pics of the knee bracket and additional backer for the exterior of the hull. Still have to do some final molding of the aluminum and redrill holes, but it gets me going in the right direction




On another note, do ya'll have the same drain plug design (see below)? Wondering if it can be cut off and another drain plug installed or should I just leave it alone?

 

[Watermann]

Knee brace looks well done :thumb:

A word of advice, don't bore the holes through the KB until you dry fit the transom wood and mark or drill through all the holes.

Both my SCs have that style of drain plug, they work fine. The only other option is a garboard plug style and most of them are dissimilar metal used in glass boats.

 

[SHSU]

Knee brace looks well done :thumb:

A word of advice, don't bore the holes through the KB until you dry fit the transom wood and mark or drill through all the holes.

Both my SCs have that style of drain plug, they work fine. The only other option is a garboard plug style and most of them are dissimilar metal used in glass boats.

For the KB, are you referring to redrilling all the holes or just the top 6 that will go through the transom?

So on the drain plug, leave it alone and use the old cork. LOL, Got it

Thanks

 

[Watermann]

Attach the KB foot to the bottom then, insert transom wood, drill the transom and clean KB at the same time. It's just so you don't have to worry about aligning the holes.

 

[SHSU]

Attach the KB foot to the bottom then, insert transom wood, drill the transom and clean KB at the same time. It's just so you don't have to worry about aligning the holes.

Ah, now I understand. Much appreciated

 

[SHSU]

So I was looking at Blind rivets I would be using to secure flooring and such. I noticed that they have Aluminum with aluminum mandrel and stainless steel with stainless steel mandrel. The stainless steel has a much higher sheer and tensile strength. What kind should I get: Aluminum or Stainless steel? Not sure if the dissimilar metals outweigh the increase in strength.

 

[Watermann]

I give my advice and suggestions on rivets in the rivet sticky. AL/AL and another thing is SS would cost 3 times as much as AL.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...-boats/10435722-rivets-rivets-and-more-rivets

 

[SHSU]

I give my advice and suggestions on rivets in the rivet sticky. AL/AL and another thing is SS would cost 3 times as much as AL.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...-boats/10435722-rivets-rivets-and-more-rivets

You really are the MANN!!!!!!

Thanks WM, will be buying several different lengths. I notice you discuss only 3/16. What about using 1/4 large flange for the floor to keep it down?

 

[Watermann]

1/4" blinds only come in dome head as far as I know but you could use them I suppose at more cost of course.

 

[SHSU]

1/4" blinds only come in dome head as far as I know but you could use them I suppose at more cost of course.

I thought I saw them, but I when I went back it was only the 3/16 like you said. Looks like I will be using the 3/16th

 

[sliver240]

I used the 3/16th for the floor. Plenty good enough. Make sure you get long enough rivets for the job! Also double check length if you are going thru carpet covered flooring etc. Stainless rivets are a pain to drill out and are very grip range fussy. I've had them not pull the joint/seam tight if a tad too long.

 

[SHSU]

I used the 3/16th for the floor. Plenty good enough. Make sure you get long enough rivets for the job! Also double check length if you are going thru carpet covered flooring etc. Stainless rivets are a pain to drill out and are very grip range fussy. I've had them not pull the joint/seam tight if a tad too long.

Thanks Silver. Good point on the taking the carpet into account. Didn't think about that. I will have to factor that in and quickly. I am looking to start doing some ordering today. Maybe I should just buy 5 different lengths..... My luck, the one length I don't buy is the one I will need LOL

 

[Watermann]

In the rivets sticky the blind rivet lengths listed for each decking thickness takes into account the deck covering and the material below deck they're attached to. Are you going to run the LF rivets through the carpet leaving the heads exposed? If so go with the listed rivet length for the decking thickness you're using.

 

[SHSU]

In the rivets sticky the blind rivet lengths listed for each decking thickness takes into account the deck covering and the material below deck they're attached to. Are you going to run the LF rivets through the carpet leaving the heads exposed? If so go with the listed rivet length for the decking thickness you're using.

Thanks WM, I was looking at that and was thinking about adding an extra 1/16th, but will just follow your suggestion