1984 johnson 90hp carb leaking fuel out air cleaner

[Catchafish]

loctite aviation gasket sealer 1525607. Ya, my gel seal instructions had me.......anxious. But looking at the gel seal loctite 518 24hrs later, it doesnt seem to be all that hardening either. the instruction spoke of a shimming effect that would not allow full seal if the work wasn't completed in 30 min(going from memory)

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

loctite aviation gasket sealer 1525607. Ya, my gel seal instructions had me.......anxious. But looking at the gel seal loctite 518 24hrs later, it doesnt seem to be all that hardening either. the instruction spoke of a shimming effect that would not allow full seal if the work wasn't completed in 30 min(going from memory)

the gel seal hardens only on the inside... the parts without oxygen. that aviation stuff is really messy!

 

[Catchafish]

I am spending too much time making no progress, gotta ask so I can move forward.
I drained lower unit gearcase oil and it was straight water for a while then thick goop following that. I am attempting to overhaul the lower unit and fix the issue. I can not get the drive shaft to lift up out of the lower unit. I have the thrust bearing and washers still on the drive shaft, the dont appear to need to come out. Everything else (bearing house, water pump assem) is removed from drive shaft.
I have the shift rod tightened and still in place, but all else is removed from shift rod(grommet, spacer, seal assy).
I have the the propeller all the way to the reverse gear removed. The pinion nut is as loose as it can get. There is not enough clearance between the pinion gear and the shifter clutch dog, for the nut to drop any further and be removed. I think this is due to the pinion gear not releasing from the driveshaft AND/OR the forward gear holding onto the pinion gear and again not allowing the drive shaft to come up any further to release the nut.

setscrew bearing is still in place. Does this need to be removed? I removed previously, but didnt seem to help. I cleaned and loctited the screw back in place.
Looking at the diagrams, there doesn't seem to be any regular maintenance items to replace(seals, Orings...etc) behind the pinion assembly, so considering calling it quits and replacing all seals and orings up to this point. All the gears have looked great IMO so far. If I should proceed how do I take this driveshaft out. I have tried heat and holding the driveshaft with one hand and tapping on the housing. Should I stop as there is not much benefit at this point to continue?
Thanks for any help and guidance!!

 

[racerone]

Sorry----But there is LOTS of room to remove the pinion nut.----I say replace the pinion bearing now !!

 

[Catchafish]

Sorry----But there is LOTS of room to remove the pinion nut.----I say replace the pinion bearing now !!

thanks for the quick response. I will replace the pinion bearing 0384195.
I just need to get the driveshaft out then. I am surely doing something wrong as there is not LOTS of room to remove the pinion nut. Its sitting right on top of the clutch dog and still in the threads of Driveshaft. Any thoughts as to what i might be missing? There is no more clearance there as it sits.

 

[racerone]

edited

 

[Catchafish]

Cant find detent spring and ball on BEARING HOUSING & PIN ASSY. Will head to johnson/evinrude shop to buy another. How is this supposed to be retained to prevent being lost in the future? The model that has two detent ball and springs have a set screw. My model does not, that I can see.

 

[racerone]

So does the detent not work ?----I do not believe you can see the detent ball and spring when it is assembled.

 

[Catchafish]

After looking at this again and again more closely, I believe you insert the spring and ball through the hole in the housing referenced in my pick, hold the spring down and then insert the detent shifter, therefore you would not see the assembly in the housing. I can pull up and push down, there is tension and it locks. I think that tells me its working correctly. Most likely a wasted post on my part.

 

[Catchafish]

Nearly 2 months later and I am just finally done with the rebuild. Pressure tested lower unit and it held 10 psi. Hopefully addressed the water getting into gearcase issue.
I am very hesitant to attempt to start the motor considering the time and money I have put into it. Is there a top 10 checklist, for example, one could review after a rebuild, especially when a newbie is holding the wrench with a seloc manual? Are there common catastrophic mistakes that are made during a rebuild, that could be checked at this point? I couldn't find much on iboats, as far as a list of things to check, especially for my motor. I disabled the VRO oil injector and will only be using the fuel pump. Mixing 50:1. Will keep a close eye on tell tale to ensure water is getting through and coming out. I will have infrared gun on the cylinder cover to monitor temp, focusing on cyl head #1(I read that runs hot on my engine). Will be running in a large garbage can, fresh cool water coming in, tell tale HOT water will be shooting out(hopefully). Will not be taking transmission out of neutral(the runaway issue).
Additionally, I am considering taking it to my johnson/eveinrude shop to have them inspect before startup. Thoughts??
Thanks

 

[racerone]

Telltale water should always be cool I say !!

 

[RBoyd1971]

The telltale water on my 90 hp stays cool when at operating temp. The block gets pretty warm though. I wouldn't hesitate to go ahead and start it up. Listen for any unusual metallic sounds when running. I would probably mix 40:1 on the oil just to give it a little extra lubrication since it's newly rebuilt. Maybe stay away from synthetic oil till the rings wear in. Be sure fuel is getting to both carb bowls so you don't get any dry cylinders. Hopefully all the jets are open in the carbs.

 

[racerone]

Break in is usually done a 25:1----Tell tale water stays cool !----Tell tale water does NOT circulate through the block either.

 

[Catchafish]

The telltale water on my 90 hp stays cool when at operating temp. The block gets pretty warm though. I wouldn't hesitate to go ahead and start it up. Listen for any unusual metallic sounds when running. I would probably mix 40:1 on the oil just to give it a little extra lubrication since it's newly rebuilt. Maybe stay away from synthetic oil till the rings wear in. Be sure fuel is getting to both carb bowls so you don't get any dry cylinders. Hopefully all the jets are open in the carbs.

Awesome. Ya, I meant hot as more of a label then actual temp. Meaning it won't be recirculating through the test tank. Thank you very much for the reply. I was already going to do a little extra oil but will do 40:1 atleast for the first gallon of gas, among the other tips you provided. Thanks again for the helpful reply. I appreciate it.

 

[Catchafish]

Break in is usually done a 25:1----Tell tale water stays cool !----Tell tale water does NOT circulate through the block either.

Wow, glad I posted, I had not seen that. Will do 25:1. Thanks racerone. I will have to revisit the tell tale and cooling system documentation. I thought it circulated through the block. But I assume if the tstats don't expand it bypasses the block therefore routes straight out the tell tale.

 

[racerone]

Find a good manual that explains how water flows through this engine.-----No point in the wild guessing on your part.-----The telltale indicates that water pump is working.-----It DOES NOT mean that motor is being cooled properly.-----Just invest in a factory manual as it will save you a lot of coins I say !!

 

[Catchafish]

Should this be longer or how does it connect with the pick up to get the fuel??? I am not able to prime any fuel using the bulb

 

[Catchafish]

water circulates through the cylinder head. I don't see where I said water circulated through the block, but for some reason was semi defending it. Anyways, For anyone interested, from the johnson service manual........

Make sure all water passage restrictors are in
good condition and properly installed (Figure
43 shows typical water passage restrictors and
Figure 44 shows V4 water circulation and water
passage restrictor location). Damaged, loose or
missing restrictors will interfere with cooling
water circulation and result in possible engine
overheating.

 

[Catchafish]

I am having trouble getting this motor to start . fresh battery showing 12.83volts. I have checked all fuel lines up to the carb including primer solenoid. 120psi across all 4 cylinders. I have the air silencer cover off when attempting to start to inspect fuel leaks, if any. I have pumped the NEW primer bulb until firm, no leaks except for a very small amt of fuel coming out the intake to air silencer fuel recycle port. After cranking 5 or so times. I remove spark plugs and they are dry.
although fuel supply seems to be an issue, I tested spark and was able to get cyl 1,2,3 to jump 1/2inch gap, however 4 had NO spark. Diagnosed this to a bad coil via swapping out port and starboard side powerpack and coils, DESPITE the ohms conductivity testing on my multimeter showing the same numbers as the other 3 coils. I will still order a new coil.
My question is, could that single spark plug not firing be the cause of the mtr failing to start? I have to assume the motor should run on all other 3 cylinders. I have gone through my carbs again, all appears good to me. Reed operation seemed fine when I inspected that a bit ago(slight daylight was visible on a few reeds). I manually opened the primer and slowly pumped fuel to ensure gas was getting directly to the carb right in front of intake.
Once I get the replacement coil, I will replace and try again. Will spark fuel/oil mixture in carb throat to see if that makes a difference. Any other suggestions or recommendations are appreciated.

 

[racerone]

Some will argue.------Take starter apart for inspection and an ohm test on armature.-----If starter is original it has likely been abused by 4 of the last 5 owners.----Simple no money spent inspection.-----Those motors will start and run / idle on 2 of 4 cylinders !