1984 johnson 90hp carb leaking fuel out air cleaner

[Catchafish]

how long did you run it before reading those temps? I can imagine in 25 degree weather it would take a good 10 minutes to warm up fully. the t stats not seated properly with the cork gaskets pinched or stuck open.
that misfiring could be a bad coil grounding out, or the sensor assembly, stator charge coil or the pack too. only way to tell is to break out the DVA adapter/multimeter and start testing!

I started it up today and it sounded great, to me. No funky noises. It Idled really high, which I was able to adjust, so pretty happy overall. Tachometer needs fixed as it's not working. I still have gas leaking at the carb. But I feel like it's also coming out the throat as well. The reed leafs were questionable as there is some daylight visible on a couple.
I will be checking the ignition system with the multimeter anyways. Thank you for all the help.

 

[Catchafish]

I had it idling the other day, and would occasionally hear it almost die for a split second and then continue to run normally again. Maybe once every 2 min on average?? Could this be an issue with the recirculation hoses? I connected them as shown in the manual (see attached pic) instead of how they were connected previously, which was starboard carb to starboard carb and port to port side.
After finally installing both carb rebuild kits on all carbs, I saw NO fuel leaking anywhere. I idled for probably 20-30 min, tilted motor, and nothing. Very happy about that.

 

[racerone]

In the above picture , what manual is that from ?

 

[Catchafish]

Part No. 394607 © OUTBOARD MARINE CORPORATION 1983 Litho U.S.A.
Service Manual 2 thru V-6 Models

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

??----Them 4 valves are called ---check valves ----in the parts book.-----I always thought a check valve flowed one way only.

the valves in the intake manifold must flow both ways i thought, and they call them "drain" valves. I know the ones on each side from the bypass covers (check valves) flow out but not in, and the ones by the intake manifold flow in but not out, but the ones on the intake manifold have to flow both ways as a drain valve right? these drain valves have different part #'s than the other ones and are all the same part #, so they can't have opposite flow, just open?
edit: i see now . the rear check valve by the bypass cover flows directly to the 4 check valves in the intake manifold. oddly, i could have sworn they went both ways but makes sense the ones on the intake should only flow in!

 

[racerone]

???----Why would the call it a VALVE if it can flow both ways.---Be better to call it a TUBE in that case I say.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

???----Why would the call it a VALVE if it can flow both ways.---Be better to call it a TUBE in that case I say.

touche my friend, touche

 

[Catchafish]

I have a medallion tach, that does not seem to be working, except for the backlight on the tach. Turn the key on and the needle does nothing. Horn doesn't work either but everything(lights, gas gauge, pump) else does. I tested the rectifier/regulator and had values displaying one way but not the other which indicates its working. I have the tach off and am wanting to test it. I connected negative from battery to negative/ground on tach. I connected positive on battery to the "P" which I believe is for purple or positive wire. No needle movement at all. Do I need the "S" sending wire connected to test the tach? Or from what I have typed above, just buy a new tach?
Thanks

 

[Faztbullet]

Nope...tach is shot.

 

[Catchafish]

Much appreciated. Thank you!!! From what I read on here I want to stick with johnson omc branded tachs as the others can cause issues with rectifier/regulator or other parts? There is a significant difference in price, as u already know.

 

[Faztbullet]

A tach is a tach. A tach made for a outboard is universal and fits many types. A 4 stroke tach wont read read correctly. Dont know where your read about using Johnson branded tachs and others causing issues ...that is bovine scat.

 

[Catchafish]

I am mistaken, I read too much on this site and everything blended together. I
This post (see bolded quote below)
Thanks, I will get a new ouboard 2 stroke tach, appreciate the help!!

Doubt that both of 2 new tachs were defective outa the box. Did they not have warrantees? That said a bad rectumfrier will ruin some aftermarket tachs. Find ya a period correct OMC tach'n see what happens. I bleve 5 is the correct pole setting for a V4 btw.

 

[oldboat1]

A fried rectifier can indeed affect operation of the tach (not sure if the tach would be ruined). Just for grins, test the rectifier.

 

[Catchafish]

Got my new tach in, I get power when I turn the key, was able to set it for v4 2 stroke. Just not able to start and run the motor since we are going through a COLD spell of -5F degree HIGHs for the last week.
On to my temp gauge and horn.
When I previously ran the motor, The temp gauge needle never seems to creep up while running. It remains in same location as when the boat is off.
the test I have done for temp.
With Key ON..........
-I get 12V on the gauge.
-jump sender wire to ground on the gauge, temp pegs hot.
-ground sender on motor, and temp pegs hot.

Not sure where else to go from here.

The Horn does NOT make sound during any of the tests, not sure if this is by design since its not running??? Not sure how to test that.

Slightly disappointed in the OMC manuals coverage of the above. Or maybe I am overlooking a section.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

Got my new tach in, I get power when I turn the key, was able to set it for v4 2 stroke. Just not able to start and run the motor since we are going through a COLD spell of -5F degree HIGHs for the last week.
On to my temp gauge and horn.
When I previously ran the motor, The temp gauge needle never seems to creep up while running. It remains in same location as when the boat is off.
the test I have done for temp.
With Key ON..........
-I get 12V on the gauge.
-jump sender wire to ground on the gauge, temp pegs hot.
-ground sender on motor, and temp pegs hot.

Not sure where else to go from here.

The Horn does NOT make sound during any of the tests, not sure if this is by design since its not running??? Not sure how to test that.

Slightly disappointed in the OMC manuals coverage of the above. Or maybe I am overlooking a section.

depending on the year, the warning horn should sound when turning the ignition to ON. that lets you know it's working. thats assuming you have an OEM control box with the horn baked into it. the older ones (i think early 80's and below) didn't have that feature but someone can jump in here on that one. But i would never trust the gauge! I'd get an el-cheapo infrared temp gun and check each cyl bank manually. those temp gauges are nice for piece of mind, but if the motor ever did overheat at speed, it would happen rapidly anyway rendering it quite useless. these V4's have issues with DIY Di**heads taking the t stats out. make sure those are in !

 

[Catchafish]

depending on the year, the warning horn should sound when turning the ignition to ON. that lets you know it's working. thats assuming you have an OEM control box with the horn baked into it. the older ones (i think early 80's and below) didn't have that feature but someone can jump in here on that one. But i would never trust the gauge! I'd get an el-cheapo infrared temp gun and check each cyl bank manually. those temp gauges are nice for piece of mind, but if the motor ever did overheat at speed, it would happen rapidly anyway rendering it quite useless. these V4's have issues with DIY Di**heads taking the t stats out. make sure those are in !

1984
I believe this is oem.
Tstats are definitely in, I replaced them during the rebuild.
I have a horn button on the instrument panel. Does nothing when I push it. I assume it just opens or closes the circuit and the horn is in the control box. Need to probably take that apart??

 

[Catchafish]

Long story short, I was grinding when shifting gears, had milky gearcase oil. I drained and did pressure test after I pulled the lower unit. Air is hissing between the shift rod grommet and shift rod cover, see picture with arrows. The grommet just sits on top, so don't feel its intended to block airflow, am I wrong? Where else do I need to look to see where the air is escaping??
Also, I have some odd colored goopy funk going on inside here. This was all clean a couple months ago, I have had it on the lake once. Assume this is just gearcase oil building up and/or mixing with water.

 

[racerone]

The seal is an o-ring INSIDE that cover.

 

[racerone]

A new shift rod cover and gasket is the easiest / cost effective fix.

 

[oldboat1]

1984
I believe this is oem.
Tstats are definitely in, I replaced them during the rebuild.
I have a horn button on the instrument panel. Does nothing when I push it. I assume it just opens or closes the circuit and the horn is in the control box. Need to probably take that apart??

Got a boat horn/trumpet up on the bow somewhere? Or maybe that button is actually an overheat light.