1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

[jigngrub]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Should I keep gutting out all of the old structure and start over new?

Is there a good, solid and safe repair that can be done on the existing well preserved structure to save time and money?

I'm of a mind that if I'm going to go through all of the time and trouble to take a boat apart, everything is going back in new... especially in a 30+ yr. old boat. There may be concealed rot in other areas you haven't touched on yet, you just never know about these old boats and the way they're quickly slapped together on the assembly line. I believe you stated earlier that the glass work below deck was sub-par anyway... and this is pretty typical in just about all the resto's we see on this forum. If your stringer only has rot on one end, it has still sucked up water into the other parts that seem solid and raised the moisture content which will lead to further rotting later... especially when it's covered over in new glass and that moisture is trapped inside.

To me, a halfway solid stringer means I get a nice solid template for the new one and this save time instead of having to scribe a new one in from scratch.

About your hull cuts and working conditions:

For me, heavy cutting and grinding/sanding is an outdoor activity during daylight hours. The quality of your work will be much better than trying to work in a fog of dust.

I know it's cold where you live, but with the proper outter wear it's not that much of a problem, and the quality of your work and the speed at which you can do it will be worth it... and you won't have a huge mess to clean up inside.

The plastic tent you're woking in now will be a dandy fine place to put the boat back together in, but for taking it apart you should really consider being outside.

These are just my thoughts and other may have a differing opinion.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Another method you could use to attempt to handle the dust is some box fans with furnace filters taped to the backs. 2-3 of em will pull the dust into the filters. They WILL clog quickly and need to be "Banged Out" in the trash can to clear/clean them but they can be effective to help manage the "Dust Cloud" under the canopy. I feel for you man. Also for the shop vac get a long flat cardboard box and cut a round hole in the bottom to fit the vac hose in and tape it secure.place it in the boat so the grinder shoots the dust into the box. Again the vac filter will clog pretty quickly but it will help a bunch. If your Stringer are indeed 100% sound and solid, I personally see no reason to remove them. Having said that, I emphasize 100%. You would need to inspect and core sample them top to bottom at many places to ensure they were in fact 100%. If so then you could just cut out the bad and "Sister In" new. Good wood is good wood. Age has nothing to do with it. If it has not been compromised with water penetration then it will be fine for another 50 yrs. Grind down the old glass put another layer of new glass over it and you're good to go. Those High Speed Water Intakes are Easy fixes so don't worry to much about them. They'll give you practice on Glass repairs. You'll be a pro when you're done.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

when you start grinding (i just finished grinding my boat out) i bought flapper disks and a package of grinding disks the semi flexible resin kind. I used 4 of the 5 disks in the package and one of the flapper disks. So i guess what im saying don't go crazy buying a whole bunch of disks and find out you have so many left unless you can use them on other projects. Ill likely be trying to take mine back or selling not sure yet.

The other thing i found that worked well for me is the backer pad i bought for the resin disks wouldn't work on the grinder i had so i pulled a trick out of the mechanic trick bag and used the solid metal grinding disk as a backer and put the resin disk over it. i found it make the disk solid so you can push down on it a little more. Saved the edge of the resin pad from wearing down when you run up against something and the edge also served as a grinder/cutter to get the edges. try it if you like it was just something i found to work for me

awesome job on the demo so far as well just have a good bunch of guys helping you here. WOG and GT1M and anyone else that helps will be in the iboats hall of fame i swear on that. An iboats hall of fame hmm perhaps we need to go public on that lol

 

[jc55]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

That's a good tip on the sleeves...seems like itching forearms are the worst part when you're lying in bed trying to sleep I'm wondering what you're grinding. I wish I lived closer to come check out your boat. Your's must be built significantly better. If you ran the circular saw down the top of a stringer long ways, would all the layers of fiberglass pry away from the stringer? I pulled my stringers out of the encapsulated fiberglass then used a wood chisel and a mallet to knock down what was left. Is that possible?

Hey, if I could...my suggestion...even if you buy a cheap compressor, I highly suggest a 60 gallon with a belt drive, oil crankcase compressor...at a minimum. Oil free compressors burn up when you put them to work, and you can't replace the motor. I bought a Husky 60 gal for $399 years ago. I painted, Sand blasted(kind of), prepped several cars, etc. It was always running. I sold it for $300 4 years later when I moved from Oregon. I know there seems to be no end to the tool investment...hang in there Bro!

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Hey banshee owner. This is the first time I've seen you on this thread. Welcome my freind! Thanks for the tip on the resin discs. I hadn't even thought to use them at all. I used to use them quite often while working with sheet metal and your right about catching an edge. Instant ruined disc. What a PITA. I like your idea but, I'm missing something here. How are you securing the disc to the cut-off wheel, or am I missing the idea all together? Please feel free to offer up anything at any time. Your opinion will always be welcome! and thank you for the comp on my demo.
Hey again jc. If I could... next time you grind or cut any type of composite material you should try out the sleeve tape. I promise its worth the extra effort of taping up. You will notice the difference immediatly. As long as you dont blow yourself off with compressed air and you carefully remove your suit, it nearly eliminates all of the discomfort. So worth it in my opinion because dang, you sir are correct about the sleeping thing. Or even the walking thing or any other kinda thing when you've got a case of glass burn. Man, you should try it around here when it's 7 degrees outside and you have to layer up. Every little move counts, if you know what I mean.:grumpy:
About the stringer consruction in the boat. The wood structure in all of the areas that I've peeled open except for where they're rotten are nearly complety bonded to the wood. This is actually a challenging thought for me right now because I think at this point, I will probably just go ahead with the full rebuild. And in doing so, with them being bonded so strongly to the glass, I dont know how I will use the old stringer structure to make an accurate template. I will have to nearly destroy them to get them stripped down to somewhat original base shape. Does that make any sense? And thanks for the tip on the compressor too. I already picked up that 21 gallon job though. I already wish it had a bigger tank but I think it will do ok for now. And it does have the fillable crankcase so it has that much going for it.
Jigngrub and woodonglass. Thanks for the extra tips on filtering out my dust shelter. But with a bit of my over-engineering tendancies to blame, I think I have succesfully overcome my filtration system problem. I spent about 4 hours tonight building it. Check it out. It actually works REALLY WELL.
I went out and picked up that 8 inch, 2 speed blower. I also picked up a compatible 8 inch, 16 foot duct to go with it. They were on sale down at the harbor. Both in stock. Around $100 together with coupons. I also picked up 1 3/8 sheet of plywood and then cut up a few existing 2?4's left over from my cap lift gantry.
Here's what I did. I built some wind and snow blocker panels so I can lift the garage door about 16 inches without the snow blowing in and then cut a 9 inch diameter hole in one of the 3 sections to push the vent duct through and route out to the side yard.
Next, I trimmed the excess plastic from around the unsealed bottom part of the dust shelter and duct taped it securely to the boat hull except for at the stern entry area.
Then I built what turned out to be probably the most unstable tables this side of the good old Mississippi river to set the blower motor on top of(good thing it doesn't vibrate around too much).
Then I just made a hole big enough for the suction side of the motor to fit through and duct taped that off as well.
I plugged it in and turned it on. It's no Tornado in there but it works. It pulls well enough that it sucks the shelter walls in while it's running. It pulls fresh air in through the entry way and routes the crap out through the duct under the garage door and back to the side yard. I blew it clean with 90 psi shop air and it kept it pretty clean of dust cloud. Im happy so far but the true test will come with that grider running heavy duty I guess. Here it is.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Hey again jc. I went out and snapped a few shots of the stringers and some cutting/grinding area for you to try and help answer your questions.
Can any of you guys tell me if I could just use solid hardwood board to build my stringers etc.. with? Why it would or wouldn't be a good idea? And if it is, what type of wood to use?
Here are those pics...

This is about 10 inches forward of the transom...



Just forward of the port side flotation cell...



Port side stringer about 5 feet back from the bow...



Starboard side stringer about 5 feet back from the bow...



Just another shot of a cut/grind area on the port side...



Thanks again to all. I look forward to hearing from ya!

 

[banshee owner]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Hey banshee owner. This is the first time I've seen you on this thread. Welcome my freind! Thanks for the tip on the resin discs. I hadn't even thought to use them at all. I used to use them quite often while working with sheet metal and your right about catching an edge. Instant ruined disc. What a PITA. I like your idea but, I'm missing something here. How are you securing the disc to the cut-off wheel, or am I missing the idea all together? Please feel free to offer up anything at any time. Your opinion will always be welcome! and thank you for the comp on my demo.

maryhannaj you attache the resin grinding disk right onto the thick grinding wheel

basically the flimsy resin disk on the nut first the the solid grinding disk the attach it to the grinder so the resin disk is facing out and you can grind with it. Hopefully that makes more sense

Great setup with the plastic shelter and dust control

when your done restoring the boat maybe you can employ your wife and kids and have them paint a nice water back drop on the plastic and have a photo shoot of what the boat will look like whizzing thru the water lol

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Yes, you can use Douglas Fir for stringers but most find laminating plywood together is easier, stronger and more water resistant. I might suggest you use a sawzall with a long flexible blade and cut stringer out at the base of the hull. I think you'll find this to be and easy and effective way to quickly remove them from the boat. You can then grind off the remaining glass "Left overs" to get a smooth hull that's ready for the new stringers. Less chance of making more High Speed Water Inlets too!!!!

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Hey banshee owner. I may have misunderstood you the first time. I was thinkink that you meant the roloc scew in type grinding discs. Now I have to think that you mean the type with sticky back. This whole time i was thinking that when you guys refer to a resin disc that it is just because of the way the sanding material is bound to its surface. Being a resin disc because of it having the sticky backing would make more sense. As far as painting the water back drop. That sir is a fine idea.:laugh:
Hey woodonglass. Thanks for the info on the Douglas fir. It makes more sense now to stick with the plywood. It would be much easier to fit. And I will use the sawsall to cut the stringers out. I believe you or one of the other members suggested that to me in a prior post. I did go out and try to find a flexible blade as it was refed to in the prior post that im talking about. I was unable to locate one at that point.
But just so happens, I was in the tool section at the depot a few days ago and I found a blade made for that purpose. It is called a "flush cut blade" and it's a Diablo product . It is around 10-12 inches long and is supposed to be able to flex underneath of a vertical surface for cut if that makes any sense. It looks to me that once you get it started underneath of the stringer, it should work out pretty darn good. We will soon see.
Thanks again guys.

 

[jc55]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

See, your stringers are really solid. Mine just pulled right out. What if you...

1. Make PERPENDICULAR cuts down the length of the stringer every, say 6" with a circular saw.
2. Adjust your blade as deep as it will go short of touching the hull. Keep that depth for every cut.
3. Hit each section in between cuts with a hammer SIDEWAYS, so that the wood breaks along the grain.
4. Use a hammer and wood chisel to free any flapping tabbing.
5. Repeat step one for the next set of depths. (If more stringer remains)
6. Use various wood chisels from stern to bow for final clean up
7. Grind silly

You'd have no template...just an idea for removing solid stringers. It may or may not work

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Hey jc. Yes, I get what you mean about the cuts to free the stringer material but, I really want to try and have something for a template to try and get the new stringers somewhat close. I've been trying to figure out how to re-man a new stringer from scratch that will meet the contour requirements of the hull but still be level and be at the right height level to add the new floor paneling and allow the cap to mount back down to it evenly as it should so that the base of the console, casting deck etc... fit the way they need to with little or no modification.
To me, that's a complete mind bender. I will have to cross that bridge when I get to it I suppose. Although, I have taken as many different type of cross, height, depth, length and width measurments as I possibly can to help me at least get back into a good spot with it.

I made yet another trip out to the harbor today to find some of those super cool clamps you have jc. And guess what? I found them. Yes sir I did and I'm very happy about it. I also picked up a special little tool that has now made it right to the top of my favorites list for demos. Tonight it proved it's worth. I have officially named this tool the "Persuader". It's my new heavy duty brick chissel. And in combo with a small sledge, holy freakin garbage bag leakage does it ever work.
I mentioned to daniel1947 way back in my thread about why I had to cut through the spashwell to seperate the cap from the hull. The reason being that the rear of the splashwell had been resined and tabbed in all of the way around to the transom from inside of the bilge compartment.
I also had mentioned that I wanted to try and seperate this piece from the transom as intact as possible for the use of casting a mold for a new rear splashwell. I've been cuttin and prying and then cutting and prying even more to try and accomplish this untill I nearly gave up and figured that it was a lost cuase and it would probably just have to get all mangled up. And that's where "Persuader" so quickly earned his way into the "Tool Box Hall of Fame".

Please meet my newest tool box editions...



Here is the peice that I so desperately wanted to save. It was a PITA to remove but I did finally get it done. You can see how it was bonded right to the transom when someone replaced it once before. Its too bad they didnt do a better job taking the necessary precautions in keeping the water out because this thing was dang stout. Its probably the only reason why my motor didn't end up going for a swim...



And here's a shot of the transom where it was bonded. The blue arrow shows one of the cuts that I made to try and remve the piece from the transom. The idea was to just get the darn thing off to where I could grind all of the extra material off of the back of it. But a couple of pry bars, a slege hammer and persuader managed to break it loose without taking it apart at the cut.
the red arrow shows the build up inside of the bilge compartment used to bond them together. Can anyone tell me why they would have done this? And is it required upon rebuild?



And hey banshee owner, it seems as though while I was down at the harbor today I forgot to pick up some resin discs. So I should be thanking you for giving me a reason to go back tomorrow. I love that store!

Thanks everyone and please remember that any and all advice, input and direction are welcomed and greatly appreciated. I look forward to fearing from you all!

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

And oh yeah banshee owner. Thanks for the comp on my shelter. I put it to the grinding test tonight and it worked perfectly. I was very happy about it. Soooo much better grinding when you can see!:laugh: And it kept the air flowing really well. There wasn't even near the the dust mess stuck to everything that had to be vacuumed up. I did still have to vacuum but it took about 1/8 the time to get it cleaned for the night. To me that also means more time to actually work on it before I have to get showered up and to bed for work the next morning.
I like the paint idea too. I guarantee to you my kids would as well!

 

[banshee owner]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

i still haven't explained clearly enough lol

i terrible with words so ill go with pictures lol

i guess there's a reason they say pics speak a 1000 words

heres a link of the discs i used there for a 7/8 shank grinder

Mastercraft Resin Fibre Disc Kit, 4-1/2 x 7/8-in | Canadian Tire

i put the above product on top of below product if that makes sense see im terrible with words

Mastercraft Abrasive Depressed Center Wheel | Canadian Tire

the grinding wheel usually comes with a grinder

you did say you have 4 1/2 angle grinder right or did i misunderstand what you were going to use

 

[banshee owner]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

maybe that will clear things up a little

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Hey banshee owner. Finally we are on the same page man. The pic of the disc cleared it right up. That's what I thought you were talking about to begin with as far as the way the sanding material is glued to the disc. But I thought you were talking about the small ones that screw onto a small angle grinder. Then you mentioned sticking them to the cutting wheel and then I figured you meant a course grit DA type disc.
Finally no more discombobulation.:laugh:
Thanks man.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

As much as I love the harbor, I'm pretty bent out of shape at them right now. I bought the first compressor from them a few days ago, got it home, used it a bit then noticed it was bleeding down.:grumpy: So I took it back to them today and they were totally cool about it. They let me return it and I even upgraded to a bigger and hopefully better 29 gallon belt drive. This sucker was crated up in a wood based box and heavy hard cased cardboard box. The compressor weighs 200 pounds. Me and my little man get this thing home and I freakin wrestle it out of the back of the truck.
I unscrew this thing from it's wood base, drain the oil out, re-oil it and run it through its break-in. I then drain the oil and refill it again and guess what? The stupid thing leaks worse than the first one. So knowing I won't be able to wrestle it back into the truck, I start soap and water spraying the fittings and dang near every one of them bubble up. So I take them apart, clean them up with a brass brush, tape them, put them back together and it STILL bleeds down. I did it again and snapped the cheap *** regulator. AAARRRGGG.

Sorry all. I just had to vent. Cause now I have to figure out what to do next.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

how fast was it bleeding down.

i would take the broken regulator off and return it back to the store and ask for another one. with any luck they might have replacement parts and maybe a better quality one.

I feel for ya man i know what its like to pay that kinda money and expect it work flawless and have nothing but problems.
you have any pics of that sucker it must be a stand up compressor.

 

[jc55]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Sorry to hear about your luck MHj. Harbor Freight is great for the millions of little gadgets that keep us going. But, compressors, welders, high end air tools, wrenches, screw drivers, etc. should be bought elsewhere. We use Rector Seal here in the compressor and pipeline field for all of our high pressure fittings. It's basically a thread paste. A high end, not bargain bin, thread tape would work too. You may just have to go through it . I'm on cheap compressor #3...they have all leaked from the factory and I had to go through them. I'm on a cheaper 3 cylinder 80 gallon Lowe's Cobalt now. It leaked too.

I would not buy a regulator or water trap from HF period. I've had two and they both leaked without hope of sealing. The bright side is that if you buy a really nice set up now(reg and trap you can get parts for), it will last forever on any compressor that you upgrade to for the rest of your life. Get a nice brass ball valve for a shutoff valve too.

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

maryhannaj (at first I thought your user name was a play on marijuana...then after reading your resto thread, I came to realize it's a mixture of names, whose, I'm guessing wife, kids? I'm from Colorado and the aforementioned maryjane is now legal...not sure how I feel about that?)

Great job on the resto of the Glastron...I don't know why but I love the metal flake and style of most of the '80's boats! I'm hanging around to see this one splashed!

~Brett

 

[Daniel1947]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

OK, my ears were burning and I see you mentioned my name again back in post 131. My 2 cents worth here is about tools. I started my real/quality/professional tool collection in 1971, when I went to work for a Ford dealer right after leaving the Marine's. I alway purchased Craftsman tools over the Snap On, Matco, etc. Now Sears did not carry "everything" that a line mechanic needed, so for those specialized tools I went the Snap On or Matco route. The everyday stuff, screwdrivers, sockets, etc., I bought from Sears. Why? because at that time if I broke a tool I could stop by a Sears store and get a replacement the same day. If it was a WagonPeddler tool, I had to wait till he came back around. When you make a living with your tools, you can't afford to be without. I still have a Craftsman 7-1/4" power saw as well as a 3/8 " variable speed reversable drill I purchased from Sears in 1975. What I guess I am trying to impart here is that when it comes to tools, you usually get what you pay for. Yes, there are good "cheap" tools out there, and I have been in Harbor Freight and Northern Tool, and will buy some of their cheaper stuff that I know will get tore up on my restoration. I plan to purchase 2 of the cheap grinders when I start, I will leave the back up in the box until the 1st one burns up, which we all know will happen. I don't want to be in the middle of grinding and not be able to continue because of not having a grinder. Also, this is an additional comment on what WOG said about wrapping a filter around the openings of the grinders, I was in Lowes the other day, and they have filters for window airconditoner vents, I think they were like $4 for a package of 3; a couple of rubber bands and should be good to go. Didn't mean to get on a rant :facepalm: but if you want something to last during "normal" use - spend the money on the front end. I agree also that there isn't any sound reason to buy a $80 grinder that is going to burn up from the fiberglass dust, when you can get the job done with a couple cheapies. Just my humbel opinion, and this post should teach you about using my name...:lol: