1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I aired-up the fuel tank last night (about 10 PSI) and sprayed the outside all over with soapy water. Only area with any bubbles was around the sender gasket. That's a relief. I will test it again after I clean and lightly sand the outside, in case any grime was plugging a pinhole. I'll prime and paint the outside of the tank before sealing it below the sole to reduce opportunities for oxidation and future pitting.

I'll check the tank again tonight to see if it retained any air. I don't have a gauge to attach to watch the PSI drop rate, but any retention of air will be a good sign.
 

Hoosmatroos

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2011
Messages
250
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Woodonglass what is PB?

I'm obviously not WoG but PB is Peanut Butter. Thickened resin that's used as a filler and to smooth out the sharp transitions between wood and poly.
 

Rebel01

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 15, 2012
Messages
44
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Checkin' in. Can't wait to see the progress...

Cheers!
 

Tboner7864

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
177
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

sharp transitions between wood and poly.

I'm still new to this. Sharp transitions between wood and poly. What transitions from wood to Poly? Do you have pictures to show me where PB would be used? Like for the stringers
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I'm still new to this. Sharp transitions between wood and poly. What transitions from wood to Poly? Do you have pictures to show me where PB would be used? Like for the stringers

WoG has a link in his sig that contains his collection of info on bedding stringers and filleting: http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...lly-started-w-pics-384982-25.html#post3586813

Several other veteran iBoaters has recipes and recommendations for 'Peanut Butter' (PB) as well. Friscoboater Jay calls it 'Pooky', but regardless of the name, it's thickened resin, using one of a number of thickening agents such as glass baloons, milled silica, or chopped fibers, or combinations depending on the application -- horizontal versus vertical, rock hard versus sandable, thickness needed, etc.
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

My US Composites order has made it overland all the way to my state! 110 lbs of it. Should be here Monday.

Meanwhile, while it was raining I created a big cardboard template of the area of the transom that will be laminated with plywood. So far it's just an exact copy of the outside of the transom.

20130510_183551.jpg


Tomorrow I'll trim a half inch off each side and drop it in place and scribe the bottom to more accurately represent what the inside looks like (minimal accommodation for strakes and chines)

Maybe I'll even hit the lumberyard tomorrow for plywood, TiteBond and PL.
 

T748

Seaman
Joined
May 1, 2012
Messages
60
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Nice template! If I may ask, whats your thoughts on going with the Titebond instead of epoxy? Does the Titebond give a longer work time? -Tom.
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Nice template! If I may ask, whats your thoughts on going with the Titebond instead of epoxy? Does the Titebond give a longer work time? -Tom.

Thanks. The Titebond is nice to work with, cleans up with water, is waterproof, and about 1/4 the price of epoxy adhesives or Gorilla Glue. It also came highly recommended by a number of iBoaters.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

My US Composites order has made it overland all the way to my state! 110 lbs of it. Should be here Monday.

Meanwhile, while it was raining I created a big cardboard template of the area of the transom that will be laminated with plywood. So far it's just an exact copy of the outside of the transom.

20130510_183551.jpg


Tomorrow I'll trim a half inch off each side and drop it in place and scribe the bottom to more accurately represent what the inside looks like (minimal accommodation for strakes and chines)

Maybe I'll even hit the lumberyard tomorrow for plywood, TiteBond and PL.

Thank goodness!

'Bout time some work was done on this bote... there for a while I thought we were going to try to talk this thing together.:laugh:

Looking forward to seeing some wood reinforcement going into this f'glass beast.;)
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Today, stuff happened!

I found some beautiful 23/32 BC plywood at Lowes. The C side was nearly clear too, it was straight and flat, and I wasn't able to see any voids anywhere. Score!

A little circular sawing

photo7.JPG


Some jigsawing

20130511_152940.jpg


Rounding over the side that goes up against the hull

20130511_163957.jpg


Cut out the keyhole

20130511_173501.jpg


And routed out half the thickness around where the thru-hulls exit.

20130511_172005.jpg
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Test fit

photo6.JPG


Glued

20130511_182536.jpg


And screwed

photo5.JPG


Beveled the top edge with the table saw, and sanded all edges smooth

photo9.JPG


And before ya know it, it's a transom!

20130511_194937.jpg


Kept gwpjr and I out of trouble for the day. Was going to rig up the clamping bars and all-thread tomorrow, but my hot water heater sprung a leak tonight, and that'll be the first priority tomorrow. Well, and Mother's day too, but unfortunately in that order, if Her Admiral-ness expects to shower. :)
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Real work = real progress!

Y'all did a heck of a job on the demo and I 'spect y'all will do the same on the build, looking forward to watching and being part of the peanut gallery.
 

ShowMeGuy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
560
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

nice transom work.... Looks like a big arse bayliner..... Would love to have one of these..... Already redone for me just to enjoy! :)
 

Lwarden

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 22, 2012
Messages
346
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Test fit

photo6.JPG


Glued

20130511_182536.jpg


And screwed

photo5.JPG


Beveled the top edge with the table saw, and sanded all edges smooth

photo9.JPG


And before ya know it, it's a transom!

20130511_194937.jpg


Kept gwpjr and I out of trouble for the day. Was going to rig up the clamping bars and all-thread tomorrow, but my hot water heater sprung a leak tonight, and that'll be the first priority tomorrow. Well, and Mother's day too, but unfortunately in that order, if Her Admiral-ness expects to shower. :)

So what made you choose the titebond over PL? and are you removing the screws when its dry?
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

So what made you choose the titebond over PL? and are you removing the screws when its dry?

I'll be using PL between the wood and hull, applied to both with a notched trowel, horizontal rows on one, and vertical on the other.

The TiteBond is great between two relatively flat and even surfaces, and goes down really easily with a roller. Yes, the screws are temporary, and will come out before I seal the edges and apply one layer of cloth over the inside surface of the transom. I could have removed the screws today, as it fully cures in 24 hours, but with Mothers' Day, there was no boat time today.

My US Composites order arrives tomorrow. Need to wait for the weather to get out of the 50's before I break out the epoxy.

Probably dabble with making up the clamping bars (2x4's, all-thread, fender washers and nuts) after work a couple of nights.

Looks like Friday is the first reasonable day, with a high of 74 forecast. Maybe use a heat gun to pre-heat the edges of the plywood then to get some penetration of resin into the endgrain.

Either way, it's going to be much more substantial and longer lasting than what Bayliner put in there originally. The original wasn't even sealed. Just painted. And the doubled portion was just in the center.
 

Tboner7864

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
177
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I found some beautiful 23/32 BC plywood at Lowes. The C side was nearly clear too, it was straight and flat, and I wasn't able to see any voids anywhere. Score!
Is this two pieces of plywood and you cut and glued them together? What is BC plywood is that marine? What is the thickness of the Transom in total when you finished. By the way looks great

Tbone
 

gwpjr

Cadet
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
17
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Yes, this is two pieces of plywood glued together. BC refers to the surface grade of the plywood. BC indicates that one side is B grade while the other is C grade. See the following explanation of grades for more detail:

Plywood - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

We elected not to use marine plywood here because we really don't need an 'A' face on both sides, and we will be expoxying the whole assembly.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Very nice job on Fabricating the Transom!!! Are you thinking of removing the screws and drilling any Mechanical bonding Holes? Just a thought! I like using em to ensure a good bond and no air bubble between the outer skin and the transom.
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Very nice job on Fabricating the Transom!!! Are you thinking of removing the screws and drilling any Mechanical bonding Holes? Just a thought! I like using em to ensure a good bond and no air bubble between the outer skin and the transom.

Screws, absolutely. Hadn't decided yet about relief holes.

I suppose a few wouldn't hurt any, especially if they are where actual holes will go in the end :)

There are a bunch of holes in the hull that haven't been filled, and they will allow a fair amount of relief too I'm guessing. Looks almost like a cross between swiss cheese and pegboard with all of the things that were screwed to/through the transom over the years. Some holes had been filled by silicone or bathtub caulk, and that has all been removed. Every hole in the transom will be filled when I'm done. Well, 'cept the keyhole that is.
 
Top