1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

[gwpjr]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I think that woodonglass is talking about drilling through holes to clamp the entire assembly to the transom skin. Of course, he could be referring to using holes to allow for the bonding agent to seep out and further lock the skin to the core. I'm sure he'll chime in and let us know.

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

gwpjr, I also believe that is what WoG is discussing. I did this on my new transom shown below. I did three near the top of the transom above the 2x4's.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

If You look at the link in my signature below it has a drawing that shows you what I'm referring to. For all the holes in the transom, I'd recommend tapeing them all off with plastic and letting the PB fill them all in at the time of the transom install.

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I think that woodonglass is talking about drilling through holes to clamp the entire assembly to the transom skin. Of course, he could be referring to using holes to allow for the bonding agent to seep out and further lock the skin to the core. I'm sure he'll chime in and let us know.

Why did you guys only cut the through hull only half way? Does the beveled edge face out or in when you install the transom?

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Why did you guys only cut the through hull only half way? Does the beveled edge face out or in when you install the transom?

The relieved areas reduce the total thickness to 1 1/4" rather than 2+", allowing standard 1 7/8" thru-hull fittings for the bilge and deck drains to be used.

The beveled edge faces in, as the tabbing at the top of the transom is to another vertical surface. The bevel plus a fillet will smooth the transition between the two surfaces. The relieved areas for the thru-hulls are rounded over with a router and will be filleted inside prior to adding cloth. That will avoid sharp bends in the glass during layup.

 

[SDSeville]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Just found this thread. Nice work so far GWPSR. I think I will tag along with this one. I would love to do a big boat like this some day.

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I will do the same when I build my new transom you guys are doing such a great job, I'm getting excited. I watched frisco you tube video on tabbing and Filleting I learned a lot. I understand now Thanks GWPSR

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I just re-read this. You are going to be using PL and NOT PB to glue the Transom to the outer skin?? Is this Correct? If so, I don't recommend it. I know others have done it but if you have a lot of holes in the transom skin that need filling etc it's gunna be a PITA with that Polyurethane glue in the way. I'd consider using PB instead.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Today I finished making the clamps:

Then I wet-out the edges and fore side of the transom. I'll probably wet-out the aft side tomorrow night, and maybe the inside of the skin if I'm ambitious. No pic of the transom. It looks the same, only shiny

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Sounds like a plan and good to see you moving forward after a long winter.

the demo and grinding is the worst part, I consider building and creating a new boat the fun part!

Are you just using one thickness of 3/4" plywood?

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Are you just using one thickness of 3/4" plywood?

No, it's doubled. We routed out two small areas around where the thru-hulls go to reduce the thickness by 3/4" (It'll still be 1 1/4" including the skin)

The original was 3/4" from gunwale to gunwale, and doubled just between the motor mounts. I'm doing the whole thing doubled. That'd be that "overkill" thing I've heard tell about

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Most outdrives require 2" to 2 1/4" What outdrive do you have?

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Most outdrives require 2" to 2 1/4" What outdrive do you have?

Volvo-Penta. It'll be 2 1/8" total without the two layers of cloth on the inside. 1 1/2 of plywood, 1/2" of outer skin, 1/8" adhesive = 2 1/8". Probably 2 3/16" with the cloth.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

WOW your outerskin is 1/2" thick?? That's a LOT of Glass!!!! You oughta be able to pull a whale with her.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

WOW your outerskin is 1/2" thick?? That's a LOT of Glass!!!! You oughta be able to pull a whale with her.

Yup. There's a picture a few pages back with a tape measure. Yes, this thing is a tank. I guess that's partly how you get to nearly 3 tons of boat.

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Then I wet-out the edges and fore side of the transom. I'll probably wet-out the aft side tomorrow night, and maybe the inside of the skin if I'm ambitious. No pic of the transom. It looks the same, only shiny

Did you wet it with the resin or the titebond or? What fiberglass will you be using? I saw frisco use 1708, that stuff worked great in all kinds of nooks and crannies. Boy am I getting Excited:happy:

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Did you wet it with the resin or the titebond or? What fiberglass will you be using? I saw frisco use 1708, that stuff worked great in all kinds of nooks and crannies. Boy am I getting Excited:happy:

I'm using epoxy resin. I bought thin laminating resin, so the wet-out can be done without needing to thin the resin. I have 17 oz biaxial cloth. That's the rough equivalent of 1708, but without the 0.8 oz csm attached. (No need for mat with epoxy)

17 oz biaxial will require relief cuts in the tighter corners, but lays nicely over flat areas and easy curves.

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

10-4, I can't wait to get my boat home Finally got the tax hold off today, so I can go to the DMV and get it put in my name and register it and get a new pink slip

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Made a shopping run to West after work yesterday and picked up a container of 403 microfiber filler. Stopped at Lowes and got more Acetone, gloves and foam rollers.

Last night's boat-work-while-grilling-dinner was to add fillets around the thru-hull relief areas:

Today's goal: gluing in the transom. Maybe fillets around it if all goes well. Also, gwpjr will be adding a new tach to his Starcraft which I'm sure will involve a healthy dose of over-engineering as well

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

So, today we measured out 80 oz of resin, 20 oz of hardener, and a pound of West 404 filler (microfibers)

And then gwpjr mixed while I troweled. There was much busy-ness during this phase, so no pictures of mixing or troweling. The USC epoxy I'm using has a 15 minute pot life at 80?, so we probably had a comfortable margin of 30 minutes ay 70?.

Eventually, there was the big pay-off:

In addition to the big clamps, and the ratchet clamps, we used drywall screws and big washers through any available holes in the skin. Lots of healthy oozing (you don't hear that phrase very often )

This was after gwpjr spent the first half of the day adding a tach to his Starcraft, and readjusting the rollers and bunks on his trailer to make launching a bit easier.

All in all, a productive Saturday.

Not sure if I'll get to filleting the transom tomorrow. The lawn was looking pretty neglected today.