1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Greyhound580

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Sep 26, 2013
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Sorry, I meant family cruiser and not familar cruiser. (Typing in the dark and not checking)
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
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Jul 13, 2011
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4,916
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Resin work looks solid and top notch!
Definitely best of luck on the engine search...
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 25, 2012
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758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

The engine quest was a dud. The 34' Silverton that the guy was parting out was a a soggy mess, but the engines looked decent. Problem was, they're not 350's, they're actually 305's. Nice day for a drive though :facepalm: The CL poster was selling it for his brother, who told him they were 350's. He said he'd alter the ad for the next guy.
 

Trooper82

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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Bummer on the 305's, but you still had a good weekend from the looks of the glassing...
 

GWPSR

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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I have a couple of questions for you......

what is the purpose of the 2 layers of foam lining the bottom of the sump? Is it for thermal insulation ie to prevent freezing or is for something else?

One layer of 1" foam -- I wanted to isolate the inside bottom of the sump from the hull. The original sump used plywood. The foam provides a layer that won't rot even if I should have a pinhole inside or outside. I did add a piece of plywood in the very middle to take screws for the pump though. There's so much glass and epoxy in that sump now however that I really doubt water could ever get through.

My second question regards your stringer plan. Have you merely copied the original stringer plan and beefed up the material or is your existing plan your own design (with regard to the number and location of the stringers)?

The aft half is in the shadow of the originals, but the dimensions are a bit taller on the main pair, and twice as wide on the ones along the strakes.

The forward half is a total redesign. What was there originally was a pair of 3" tall by 3" wide rounded top things, made of a 2x2 surrounded by an inch of foam. The replacement set is 2x5.5", with three beefy bulkheads made of 2x10, spaced 2 feet apart. We're certainly erring on the side of caution wherever we can.
 
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GWPSR

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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Before the futile trip to see mis-identified engines, the tabbing was finished.

20131006_165526.jpg


All that's left is to cap the stringers, then lay down the sole. In preparation for that step,we created a template from cardboard:

20131006_165445.jpg


It was like summer again here today. Mid 80's and soggy.
 

Tboner7864

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Mar 27, 2013
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

You guys are doing an exceptional job:high5: Hey GWPSR is it possible that you can put a blown up graphic of the stringer design in my thread for me? and maybe a list of supplies and the quantity of supplies thus far and what you believe it will take to complete your boat?
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I'll sum it all up when I'm done, but it's hard to predict what it'll take at this point. I do know that it'll be roughly one sheet of plywood for the sole, in two pieces. The first one from the template above is 48" long by 42" wide at the widest, and 36" at the narrowest. The piece forward of that will start at 36 wide and taper to a point where it lays into the bow.

When I'm all done I'll also put a copy of the Visio file that I'm doing the drawing in which can be blown up to whatever size you desire. There's a free Visio viewer on the web if you don't have access to a legit copy of the app.

Resin-wise, it looks like we'll have enough to cap the stringers and seal the bottom of the sole. Maybe enough for the top, and perhaps enough to tab the sole into place. After that, it'll be yet another 5 gallon order. That'll be #4 if I recall. So far we've used 24 yards of 17 oz biax, and bought another 15, and 25 yards of 6 oz cloth. I've used 5 20 oz West milled fiber containers, a 2 gallon container of chopped fibers from Jamestown, and probably 3 gallons of wood flour. I've been saving all of our sawdust from the table saw, and then using an old food processor to mill it into rough flour, suitable for bedding and fillets where they won't be part of a finished visible surface.

We'll keep glassing as long as the weather holds out, or we run out of resin, whichever comes first. Then it's switching gears to fabbing templates for cabinetry and the banquette, or stripping paint from the sterndrive and transom shield in prep for fairing and paint. Good fall & winter activities.
 

Tboner7864

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Mar 27, 2013
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Thanks GWPSR I appreciate all that you are doing. The way your building this boat if all boats were built this way no one would have to buy another boat. Boat sales would go way down. If you lived by me I already have the motor you need in my back yard, waiting to go in a boat that is years away from the point your at. I still have to take the motor out of the RV it is in and I was going to put it on an engine stand and put it away till that day.
 

Tboner7864

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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Which just reminded me -- I need to research moisture/water sensors. I'd like to consider not only placing one in areas that will/may see water routinely so I can have a visual signal on a display, but maybe even in some of the sealed chambers for piece of mind.

I was looking back at your thread and remembered seeing this. My wife and I had a sailboat we stayed on at our favorite marina and she would not sleep on the boat unless I had some way to know if water was coming in. Harbor Freight has water sensors very inexpensive and they work great we used ours for a couple of years and you can choose the sound you want beep or even plays Fur Elise if you prefer classical and has a wire that is like 6ft long and the end can go into the deepest darkest spot on the boat. It gave my wife peace of mind, she never slept better.
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I was looking back at your thread and remembered seeing this. My wife and I had a sailboat we stayed on at our favorite marina and she would not sleep on the boat unless I had some way to know if water was coming in. Harbor Freight has water sensors very inexpensive and they work great we used ours for a couple of years and you can choose the sound you want beep or even plays Fur Elise if you prefer classical and has a wire that is like 6ft long and the end can go into the deepest darkest spot on the boat. It gave my wife peace of mind, she never slept better.


I have a LeakFrog in my basement to alert me to boiler problems or failure of the sump pump
leakfrog-water-alarm.jpg


What I need is something on the end of a wire that can be enclosed in those sealed chambers and be able to be read by a central panel.
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

More like these

P3202385.jpg


so I could enclose one in each sealed chamber, and feed all the signals back to a central Arduino for enunciation on a panel, or as input to a computer display. At the least, I could periodically throw a multimeter across the terminals and check for change.
 

zool

Captain
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Ahh, an Arduino is a good choice, maybe you can do a bunch of other function with it too.....I have one I was messing with, but im kinda DC retarded....will it need coding?
 

GWPSR

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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

gwpjr is a tabbing and laminating machine!

20131011_193144.jpg


20131011_193202.jpg


The new 17 oz biax from Jamestown seems much denser than the stuff I got from USC. It's cross-stitched every 1/8" rather than every inch. It is less transparent than the other stuff too. Boy does it like to drink though!

We're going to be ready for the sole this weekend. The weather should be decent too.
 

Trooper82

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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

That is looking real good...hope your weekend goes well

got samples from both types of clothe that you can take a pic?
 

Greyhound580

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Sep 26, 2013
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Great work guys. Some serious glassing going on there and some serious progress.
.
The sole going in is a real commendable milestone. Well done and good luck with it.
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

More cardboard templates:

20131012_142441.jpg


and then cutting some fresh plywood using the pattern:

20131012_133302.jpg


Using the router to relieve the back edge in a few places:

20131012_143652.jpg


First piece after fitting and adjusting:

20131012_134341.jpg


And with the second piece in place:

20131012_144818.jpg


Note the pencil lines transferred onto surface of plywood to help in aiming screws into the stringers when we lay it down.

Laid out the wood on horses and gave it a nice drink of resin. We'll PL them down tomorrow after the resin cures.
 

GWPSR

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Jul 25, 2012
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Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

It was only 2 PM, so we looked at each other and asked "So, what's next?" :)

I had the PL, and the screws, so we spent a little while wiping everything down with acetone, and got busy laying down the sole along the edges of the bilge and the fuel tank.

1/4" bead of PL, and screws every 8" around the perimeter, with each screw dipped in PL before driving it home.

20131012_180013.jpg


20131012_181417.jpg


20131012_181935.jpg


20131012_181949.jpg


And then after that, there was still a little daylight left, so I broke out a roller and a pan of BilgeKote, and gave the sump another coat.

There was still some paint left in the tray, so gwpjr grabbed it and gave the inside of the transom a quick coat.

All in all, a productive day. :)
 

GWPSR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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758
Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

That is looking real good...hope your weekend goes well

got samples from both types of clothe that you can take a pic?


Turns out they both are stitched closely in one direction (the newer stuff a tighter stitch and closer), but the old had stitching going across one per inch. That came in handy for measuring. The new stuff is not as pretty, but is denser and seems to adapt to odd shapes (and stay) somewhat better.

Older biax (USC 17 oz.):

20131012_145732.jpg


You can barely see the lateral stitching.

Newer biax (Jamestown 17 oz)

20131012_145736.jpg
 
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