1979 18' v5

Watermann

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I'm really liking the looks of all those floor supports/stringers being double rows. Although I may know why all the buck tails are missing on the ribs, those stringers/supports look to be solid riveted to the bottom and bridge over the ribs except where the tank was. Oh and no limber holes? Interesting design changes there.
 

hayko1971

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The smooth flat walls make it look sleek, is the tin any thicker on the sides of the V5? It's interesting to me to see the differences in models.
 

dozerII

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I'm really liking the looks of all those floor supports/stringers being double rows. Although I may know why all the buck tails are missing on the ribs, those stringers/supports look to be solid riveted to the bottom and bridge over the ribs except where the tank was. Oh and no limber holes? Interesting design changes there.

It does have a real different structure than other S/C's including my 201, no limber holes. What's your take on the missing bucktails?

The smooth flat walls make it look sleek, is the tin any thicker on the sides of the V5? It's interesting to me to see the differences in models.

Yes the aluminum is thicker and there is a curve to the hull sides that gives them a lot of strength.
 

Watermann

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The stringer deck supports are riveted to the bottom rather than on top the ribs which puts the downforce on the bottom AL which is designed to have force from the outside pushing on it, not the inside which could put a bunch of stress on the rivet bucktails that they are not designed to handle. There that's my SWAG on the missing bucktails!
 

jbcurt00

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I agree w Rob ^^^ but will add that riveted to the ribs the stringers 'used' to load deck weight on to the ribs, which might have translated into cracked rib ends and hull splits that later SCs used rib end plates to counteract.

By switching to a notched over the rib, riveted to the hull, stringer, the loading is now on the hull and a few busted buck tails is better then a hull split.

Still solid connections between deck, stringers and hull, and the hull might have a little more give/flex tk prevent any cracks.
 
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dozerII

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The stringer deck supports are riveted to the bottom rather than on top the ribs which puts the downforce on the bottom AL which is designed to have force from the outside pushing on it, not the inside which could put a bunch of stress on the rivet bucktails that they are not designed to handle. There that's my SWAG on the missing bucktails!

I agree w Rob ^^^ but will add that riveted to the ribs the stringers 'used' to load deck weight on to the ribs, which might have translated into cracked rib ends and hull splits that later SCs used rib end plates to counteract.

By switching to a notched over the rib, riveted to the hull, stringer, the loading is now on the hull and a few busted buck tails is better then a hull split.

Still solid connections between deck, stringers and hull, and the hull might have a little more give/flex tk prevent any cracks.



I would tend to agree but all the missing bucktails are the center ones that attach the keel to the hull.

 

stevecur

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Is the keel beat up or distorted? Maybe misadjusted trailer or holding moister and freezing.
 

dozerII

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Is the keel beat up or distorted? Maybe misadjusted trailer or holding moister and freezing.



Once I get it flipped I can get a better look at the keel, and your right if the keel is full of wet sand and the drains are plugged that could have caused the problem. I never thought of that as the boat hasn't been in the water for more than 15 years.
 

dozerII

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Well, I have never seen this before, I think this hull was built on a Friday late afternoon or was a training ship:eek: I was sitting in it cleaning up drilled out pop rivets and looking at all the rivet lines, there are all kinds of them that seem like the rivet used was too short or was over or under bucked:suspicious: this could be a real project going over every rivet in the hull. I will take some close-ups if anyone is interested!!
 

Decker83

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:noidea:Maybe it was from the 2x4 holding the fuel cell up..
Your making good progress.. The rub rail looks damaged beyond repair.. You may be able to cut it and weld it back..:pop2:

Don't think your going to get by using that fuel hose..:laser:
 
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jbcurt00

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Yes pix please

Someone was asleep at the wheel if all those rivet problems were done at the factory...
 

dozerII

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Okay here we go, if you look at the rivet lines when they get to a rib it looks like they used the same length rivet for two layers as three.













 

g0nef1sshn

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If its all the same line of rivets, Maybe a PO made an attempt at redoing something those rivets support? Or that boat had the "new guy" on the assembly line?
 

64osby

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  • Good thing you have air riveter.
On comparing the two hulls does this hull have less ribs?
 

Watermann

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Guesses... hmmm at the SC factory one gloomy freezing rainy February Friday in 1979 after a liquid lunch at Uncle Jack's Beer & Brats Shack the guy with the hammer and his best buddy the bucking bar fella ran out of cash after the 4th round and gave the bartender all their 1/2" rivets as a tip. :noidea: :very_drunk:
 
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dozerII

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Using to short of a rivet makes the most since..:eek:

I'm thinking the same.

If its all the same line of rivets, Maybe a PO made an attempt at redoing something those rivets support? Or that boat had the "new guy" on the assembly line?

This was definatly from the factory, it's like they dropped the two tubs of different size rivets and mixed them all up then picked them up and just put them in one tub:rolleyes:

  • Good thing you have air riveter.
On comparing the two hulls does this hull have less ribs?

You bet, I will have to look at a couple pictures to compare the rib count. compared to my 18 SS o/b the ribs on the V5 look like they are about 6 inches further apart

Guesses... hmmm at the SC factory one gloomy freezing rainy February Friday in 1979 after a liquid lunch at Uncle Jack's Beer & Brats Shack the guy with the hammer and his best buddy the bucking bar fella ran out of cash after the 4th round and gave the bartender all their 1/2" rivets as a tip. :noidea: :very_drunk:

I think you nailed it Rob
 

dozerII

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The art of the flip, I think it took about four nights of waking up with goofy ideas, but I came up with a way to flip the V5 myself without getting hurt or causing damage. It only took me about 10-15 minutes and I answered the work phone 4 times while doing this. I ran a couple of 2" ratchet strap, straps under the boat and up the port side and hooked them on the bottom inside edge of the gunwale about two feet in from the transom and four feet back from the bow. Tied the two loose ends in a knot at the very bottom of the starboard gunwale, then put the knot in the hook on my Cherry picker and started jacking.





Once I got the hull standing almost straight up I laid a couple tires on the floor to set the starboard gunwale on, grabbed the high side gave a good tug and over she came just as slick as whale snot.



All ready for close inspection.
 

64osby

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Whale snot must be another one of those Canadian only products. Can't find it at any of the big box stores or on xbay.

Going to have you send me a case or two of whale snot and stripper.

Nice flip.
 

dozerII

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Whale snot must be another one of those Canadian only products. Can't find it at any of the big box stores or on xbay.

Going to have you send me a case or two of whale snot and stripper.

Nice flip.

Thanks 64, yup good stuff just don't step in it:D:lol:, you can't find it down there cuz the whales don't catch colds in the warm water:laugh:
 
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