Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild
Drew - Yah, I might even be within that 1/8", that was a great fit there
Course, it'll all be scratched once I pull that V6 out and drop er in again. Ah well, no biggie.
Michael - Good to see ya man! Yah, I'm certainly not fast, but I do my best to keep moving forward anyway
Mario - Well, a fat wood block (plywood, hardwood, whatever) would be all sealed up with epoxy and paint so no need for fiberglass (apologies if I wasn't clear on that). The riser will be bolted down to the alum/wood stringers that came factory, they will never move. Plus, where it sits it'll never even get wet, it's high and dry. Moreover, any mating surface (and fasteners) will be totally gooped up with 5200. Given that set up, I'll be worm food by the time any of that would need to be replaced. If I went the alum tubing route that would have to be pretty thick for me to be feeling good about it. Kinda $$$ too. I like the idea of alum tubing as I wouldn't have to seal it up and stuff but it would be a wash by the time I cut all the access holes out. As for the lag bolts - I'm pretty sure that's how all engines are installed. I don't believe I have seen one that has been installed with machine bolts. I'm sure there is, I just haven't seen one. In the end, SS lags all sealed up should last as long as I'll ever be kicking. Likely my kiddos too. For alignment I'll set it in, align, lock it down. Nothing can move at that point. During winterization the following fall, pull the leg, run the alignment bar again. If she is off, make any necessary adjustments (the mounts allow for a little adjustments keeping the original lag holes).
Honestly, if I had a 3 1/2" alum square tube at 3/4" thick, with access holes pre drilled, I'd be all over that! Alas, I don't. So we'll go the wood route. I think it'll be bomber.
Thanks for chipping in man, that's what this is all about. Kicking ideas around and running with what's the best given the situation. Appreciate ya taking the time
