1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

[fshngho]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Just can't pick on ya Bro. your motor sounds good, the boat is sound, and I can't help but wish you well. Now, when are ya splashing?????
Don't hold back, we are figuring you out. My guess is end of July.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Oh sheesh Dale, honestly it's so tough to know when this rig will make it in the water. So much depends on the Merc install. If I can get sea trials in before the snow flies again that would be cool, I'd be happy.

Ok, so you guys know I'm not just slackin and talking trash on your threads....

I got all the clamps off, sanded and primed that arch/stringer/bow support piece (sure wish I knew the actual name of it)...

Sold some more boat gear today too

Cheers!

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

This am's progress...

Got the bow/cabin support structure piece all sealed up, ready for the vinyl treatment...

I also prepped the headliner plywood for one of my two new dome lights, check it out...

Really nice light, heavy stainless, kinda classy, all sealed up, I like.

Lil help if anybody knows and is willing...

How do I wire this up?

Appears as though I have one wire going to the switch then to the light. Then it appears as though I have another wire going straight to the light. I have some guesses but I don't really want to guess ya know.

Cheers!

 

[KellyC]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Lol, and here I thought you just knew everything by the way things were going there bud. You make it all look so easy that it is not even funny:facepalm:.

The wire going to the switch is going to be your hot wire or power from your fuse box. The other wire is going to be your ground wire going to your fuse box, bus bar or whatever you are using for your grounding points. Very simple my friend, just remember that you have to have a hot and a ground with DC devices and that nothing should be grounded to the boat itself.

Wow, I am amased that I know something for a change, now how is that for scarey.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Don't let me fool ya bro, I haven't yet done my homework on wiring up a marine vessel. This is the first piece of the whole wiring puzzle, first piece to actually get mounted in the rig. Once I get the basics of it I think I'll be aok. I was thinking I had a little more time to do the necessary wiring research but this piece snuck up on me.

Thanks for the help Kelly!!

 

[yooperangler]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Nice progress and nice looking light Kelly has it right I think although I have found it easier/ less confusing when dealing with DC to use + and - as references rather than "hot" and "ground" as in some applications (relays, switches etc..) either one can be used to open/ close a circuit and in a lot of situations (automotive) either may be used as a "ground".

On a similar note I have a question (-) from battery originally ran to a stud on the splashwell connecting (-) for fuse box tilt etc at this point why is this a bad thing in boating applications ? Sorry for the hijack Jas just happened to think of it:redface:

 

[KellyC]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

On a similar note I have a question (-) from battery originally ran to a stud on the splashwell connecting (-) for fuse box tilt etc at this point why is this a bad thing in boating applications ? Sorry for the hijack Jas just happened to think of it:redface:

Not sure on that fact there yoop and not sure it is a bad thing. Might want to post the question in the electrical so that someone with better knowledge than I can tell you. It sounds like it would be ok, just not sure to say yea or nea.

Yes sorry for the hijack Jason.

 

[Alpheus]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Jason

Are you planning on running a negative bus bar up to the front for your interior lights,helm and all your other doo-dads?

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Jason

Are you planning on running a negative bus bar up to the front for your interior lights,helm and all your other doo-dads?

Hey, good to see ya man! Hope we can see an update over on your Cheif thread.

Well, like I mentioned earlier, I haven't yet planned all that out yet nor have I done the necessary research to even figure out what my options are.

I'm happy to hear recommendations!

Two things I'll say about my set up...

1. I'll have pretty low needs - few lights, bow/stern lights, downriggers, VHF, GPS/Fishfinder, pretty much it. No stereo. Two batts (start and deep cycle), ACR is what I am thinking.

2. I like things simple.

Happy to hear anybodies thoughts

 

[CBGale2]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

not sure on that fact there yoop and not sure it is a bad thing. Might want to post the question in the electrical so that someone with better knowledge than i can tell you. It sounds like it would be ok, just not sure to say yea or nea.

Yes sorry for the hijack jason.

:d :d

 

[ben2go]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

When ground anything in a boat,make sure it is grounded back to a bus bar connected to the battery or ground directly to the battery.If it isn't done this way the boat will suffer from serious galvanic corrosion.

 

[KellyC]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

When ground anything in a boat,make sure it is grounded back to a bus bar connected to the battery or ground directly to the battery.If it isn't done this way the boat will suffer from serious galvanic corrosion.

You beat me to it Ben. Yea CB, you do not want to ground anything to your boat. It causes really bad things to happen to aluminum boats, like eating holes in em

 

[Triton II]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Ben and Kelly have it right. Run high amp rated positive and negative leads to the busbar and run all your electrical feeds from (positives) and back (negatives) to the busbar. Where an item has a switch like your light above, put the switch on the positive side as shown in Kelly's pic ^^^^. In a biggish boat such as your Islander Jas, you may need to have two busbars, one up under the dash, and one in the transom area. Keep the wiring to your electrical devices as short as possible but I wouldn't go with more than two busbars, and if feasible stick to one to keep things simple.

Kelly's warning is also spot on... do NOT run the hull as a ground (as you would the body in a car)... unless you want a 22ft alka-saltzer.

TII

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Thanks for the info fellas, much appreciated!

Since I have been a member here I have been swinging through the Electronics Forum every now and then subscribing to the threads regarding wiring up a rig. I probably have something like 25 threads to work my way through to learn a bunch of new stuff.

Cheers guys!

 

[ben2go]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Ben and Kelly have it right. Run high amp rated positive and negative leads to the busbar and run all your electrical feeds from (positives) and back (negatives) to the busbar. Where an item has a switch like your light above, put the switch on the positive side as shown in Kelly's pic ^^^^. In a biggish boat such as your Islander Jas, you may need to have two busbars, one up under the dash, and one in the transom area. Keep the wiring to your electrical devices as short as possible but I wouldn't go with more than two busbars, and if feasible stick to one to keep things simple.

Kelly's warning is also spot on... do NOT run the hull as a ground (as you would the body in a car)... unless you want a 22ft alka-saltzer.

TII

As an addition to this.Make sure the bus bars are isolated from the hull and any other metals.The ones I use have a plastic cover.When I mount bus bars in a boat that is metal or wood,I cut a piece of wood about 1.5 inches larger than the bus bar.Then I treat it with epoxy,sand,paint,and glue it to the hull with 3M 5200/4200 marine adhesive.That completely isolates the bus bar.Also,never use any treated wood in an aluminum boat.The treated wood contains copper and will cause rapid galvanic corrosion.

 

[KellyC]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Hey Jason, here is something that is really simple bud. It does not include your starting circuit, this is just basically just for your addon stuff bud. And if you don't like it then no biggie, just trying to make it simple for you my friend.

 

[proshadetree]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Ja the buss bar ideal is a very good one. Used a 10gauge wire from batt negative to feed the bar and then run you assorted grounds to it. You could also pull you ground from your engine block. A positive buss would also allow a constant hot to feed items you wanted to install later IE stereo, ect. Alpheus is very wise to suggest this. As far as electronics go, the down and dirty of it is a positive a negative with resistance in the middle. Switch normally goes to positive side. Looking great bud. Splash in a week maybe?

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Thanks for drawing that up Kelly! Yah, simple, I like that! Even though my pea sized brain has been traumatized over the years I can pretty well figure that out up there. Simple! Good! Thanks!

I should be out working on some upholstery right now but I'm wiped, long day. Hopefully I can get up early enough to get something accomplished before work.

Cheers guys!

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Splash in a week maybe?

Oh gosh, don't I wish. I just learned we are taking a whole extended family vacation along the shores of Lake Michigan in about 3 weeks time. Man I'd love to take this Islander out there! I am so far off, ugh. Oh well. There will be other times.

 

[proshadetree]

Re: 1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

Not near as far as when you started. You will be there soon.