1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

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KC4ZQZ

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sorry about the misunderstanding about the pics. I thought someone wanted pics of the kayak cockpit, should of read whole thread. Anyway the pics of live well are attached. lisa
 

GT1000000

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Morning Ladies,
Yes, sorry, was asking the question in short hand...should have been a little clearer:embarassed:
I was talking about the live well in the Ouachita...
OK, I did a quick sketch of how I see the live well as shown in the pics and from what I have gathered from the description...
Please, let me know if it is accurate, and if not, what am I not getting?



Thanks and have a wonderful Wednesday!:)
 

KC4ZQZ

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Good morning and that looks good to me but Don't much about it ust what I've read and the little I remember that charles said. Lisa
 

sphelps

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You got it Gus and there is a sleeve that covers the outside of the basin that slides over it with a hinged lid ..
 

GT1000000

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Okie, Dokie...Just taking a quick lunch break right now, but I'll dig into it later this afternoon and get you a good plumbing set up...:)
 

KC4ZQZ

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There are two brass male connectors one for each hole that are open for water flow they have i guess they are called nuts that screw on the inside of boat. The connectors fit right up to the bottom of the boat, tnx for all your efforts, lisa
 

Mud Puppy

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I can see some good stuff happening here. Read the whole thread. Charles would be proud I'm sure.
 

GT1000000

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Alrighty, this is what I would do to set up the live well...



Make sure all the thru-hull connections are sealed with 3M 5200 or the equivalent...
Your maximum water level inside the live well will be determined by the height of the stand pipe...
The stand pipe is removed at the end of the day to completely drain the live well...
Keep the water level just below the motor part of the aerator pump...they are fine getting wet, as they are designed as bilge pumps, also...
But by keeping it high and dry, it should live a long and happy life...
The water outlet can be as simple as the outlet already molded on the pump or a spray head can be attached to better aerate the live well...
Hope this helps and if anything needs clarification, just ask...
Happy soon to be Friday!:)
 

sphelps

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Now were getting somewhere ,,, I knew I could count on you GT for a bit of clarification / guidance . Very nice diagram and simplicity !
But you know me I got a ?
Will the water pressure under the boat especially while under way push up and over the top of the overflow tube ? And would you turn the ball valve off after you fill the well ? Ohhh one more ? Is there a different type fitting that could be used for the overflow that would allow all the water to run out of the well . Seems with the brass fitting it would leave a good bit of fishy water in the bottom ..
Thanks Gus this is very helpful ! :)
 

KC4ZQZ

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Thanks guys for all you do. Sam I'm trying to figure out the dremel hope I don't leave any holes. Lisa
 

GT1000000

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Now were getting somewhere ,,, I knew I could count on you GT for a bit of clarification / guidance . Very nice diagram and simplicity !
But you know me I got a ?
Will the water pressure under the boat especially while under way push up and over the top of the overflow tube ? And would you turn the ball valve off after you fill the well ? Ohhh one more ? Is there a different type fitting that could be used for the overflow that would allow all the water to run out of the well . Seems with the brass fitting it would leave a good bit of fishy water in the bottom ..
Thanks Gus this is very helpful ! :)

I'll take those ??? one at a time...sort of:rolleyes:

Be prepared because some of the following explanations can be a bit confusing, so feel free to ask for any clarifications and/or sketches...

As long as the top of the overflow is above the water level outside, water will not come in...as a matter of fact, if the boat is up on plane and you were to remove the stand pipe, theoretically of course, the water in the live well would actually get sucked out by a Venturi type effect, similar to how the air rushing through the throat of a carburetor actually pulls the fuel out of the bowl and into the engine...

Technically, the ball valve or the stand pipe are not really necessary in this type of live well set up... see the first sketch below...

And finally, to be able to completely drain the live well after use, you would have to devise a way to eliminate the brass drain fitting and have threads that are flush with the bottom of the live well, where you could screw the drain/stand pipe directly into...that way when you remove it at the end of the day, the threaded opening would be at the lowest possible point in the well, allowing all the water to drain...

Another possibility would be to have a push in type stand pipe...even if it came loose... would only allow enough water into the live well until it reached the same level as the body of water outside the boat...
see sketch...




OR...

Completely eliminate the stand pipe and use an expanding type rubber bilge plug in the drain hole...
The main disadvantage of this is that you would lose the ability to recirculate the water in the live well, which is the main purpose of the stand pipe when using a pump type system...


Below is a sketch of the three drain/stand pipe possibilities that eliminate the use of the brass thru-hull fitting...



Like I said, maybe a bit confusing...:facepalm:
 

friderday

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Oh heck, Lisa....holes are good....once you are an iboats expert at filling them, holes will no longer consume you nor intimidate you...remember there is nothing you can't fix...it's like my pa always said, "it's already broke, kid...if we break it more, we'll fix it just the same!" (p.s.....I don't think you'll do too much damage with the dremel...they're fun aren't they? Whatcha using it on? Spider cracks caused my dremel to come out of it's case)...Lisa (too)
 

sphelps

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Ok , that makes sense to me now . Never had physics in school so wasn't sure of all the staticky pressurey this and that thats involved in a livewell set up ...
I just wanted to make sure we didn't sink Charles's boat ! You would think for someone "me", that grew up on the river would at least know how to set one up . But we never really used them and I worked as a striker on shrimpboats,snapper, gill net,and crab boats ...
Thanks Gus !
Lisa , ya just want to make a V - groove on the cracks . Should be a small bullet looking bit . Just get past the gell coat and into the glass just a little .
 

GT1000000

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Oh, on the subject of why you would even want to use a pump and stand pipe set up in this live well...:noidea:
Since the water will only seek its own level, as in the sketch above...
If the live well is taller and you want to fill it, and keep it full, higher than the outside water level, then that is why you need the pump and stand pipe...
 

sphelps

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Hey GT , what do you normally use for block sanding primer . I have one of the small rubber blocks but was wondering if something else might work better . And have you or do you use guide coat ? I really want to do a better job with the prep on the top cap . I probably could have been a bit more aggressive with some OP on the hull paint . One of these days I'm gunna learn how to paint .. :lol:
I haven't forgotten about you gals just taking care of some chores .. :juggle: :washing:
 

GT1000000

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I like to use these...they ain't cheap but they are flat, stiff and most of all very light, a good thing when you have to hold them for hours on end...
11890.gif


Or else I make my own out of plain white Styrofoam [EPS] blocks in the shape I require at the moment...they are more flexible and I mainly use them for the odd contours...

Guide coat, YES! see post #893 in my thread.
 

sphelps

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Hmmm ,I have some 1-1/2" blue ridged foam I could cut . How do you get the paper to stay on the foam ? Wrap around and staple the lap , glue maybe ?
 

Woodonglass

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I use 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. I'd also recommend stacking two pieces to make it taller and able to get a better grip. Glue em together with the same glue.;)
 
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