1974 Duo Vagabond 17' sterndrive Transom and stringers project

[Redtruck12]

Good to know
just to clarify (I think you’re spellcheck re wrote some)
there is fast cure 5200???
I figured that the extra cure time compared to peanut butter will give me time to position properly. And once it is in and set the only glass over needed will be in the bilge

 

[Woodonglass]

If you use PL to attach stringers to deck then cure time is NOT an issue. I would NOT use it to fill the gap between the deck and Hull Sides. PB is a much better choice. PB or 5200 can be used to coat the screws and holes when installing the deck. I think your layup schedule for the deck is spot on.

 

[kcassells]

Won't the screws gas off with the 5200? Just wondering.

 

[Redtruck12]

Won't the screws gas off with the 5200? Just wondering.

Not sure what you mean

yes WOG, I am planning on p.b to build up the gap at the hull.
other than (as I previously mentioned) underestimating resin, I estimated other materials quite accurately.
i am preparing my shopping list

 

[Woodonglass]

Any residue left by the screws should be removed prior to the final glass coating. What's buried in the wood will not have and affect on the glass.

 

[Redtruck12]

Sorry not sure what you mean by “residue” left by the screws
are you saying the screws are okay once sealed into the resin? (what I perceived as correct)
or are you saying they should be removed?

 

[Woodonglass]

what I meant is when you use screws to attach the deck, you should predrill the holes, coat the holes and the screws with 5200 and then install. If the 5200 gooshes out (residue) then wipe it off with acetone. The deck should be installed prior to the final coat of resin and glass and any 5200 that's not cleaned up will impede the adhesion of the resin and glass.

 

[Redtruck12]

Gotya
thats what I thought

 

[Redtruck12]

Tonight I went to scout out 1/2 inch ply for my decking, went looking for a solid low void somewhat finished 1/2 inch Douglas fir.
only thing I saw in fir was 11mm finished one side. Not impressed AND not 1/2 inch! (1/2inch would be 13mm)
They did have 1/2 maple and oak and price was not too bad, I think it was finish grade (finished both sides) and no edge voids at all.
unfortunately I went in the evening and there were no knowledgable staff on ,
just teenaged kids (searched their computer and typed in "4x8 play wood "

Would oak or maple be okay?..just asking

 

[zool]

No, its cabinet ply without the proper glue. Lowes carries 1/2 MDO with few voids and very stiff, has an A and B side and runs 47 for a 4x8 here...or just use 15/32 BCX available at most box stores

 

[dezmond]

Hey Red. Any updates? I will be catching up to ya soon.

 

[Redtruck12]

Quick update.
found 1/2” ACX grade fir plywood local Home Hardware building centre! $42 / sheet.
Took advantage of the somewhat decent weather today.
i had already measured and double checked and was ready for cutting. Cut and test fitted and started on my glassing (poly and csm) bottom side finishe.
im thinking I want to pour my foam before the decking goes down.
i would like to give it a coat of poly to help seal the foam.
day off tomorrow and hopefully get some more work done they are calling for flurries Wednesday

 

[dezmond]

Quick update.
found 1/2” ACX grade fir plywood local Home Hardware building centre! $42 / sheet.
Took advantage of the somewhat decent weather today.
i had already measured and double checked and was ready for cutting. Cut and test fitted and started on my glassing (poly and csm) bottom side finishe.
im thinking I want to pour my foam before the decking goes down.
i would like to give it a coat of poly to help seal the foam.
day off tomorrow and hopefully get some more work done they are calling for flurries Wednesday

Nice find on the plywood. I'm picking mine up this week. Not too worried about the "flurries". It's only October. We will be back in shorts and t's by first week of November for a couple weeks

 

[Woodonglass]

Really no need to coat your foam. It forms its own protective coating once cured. It IS closed cell foam. sooooo I'd advise you to install your deck and them do the foam. This will ensure better compaction and a more structural solid application.

 

[Redtruck12]

Ya I understand that is the usual way to get it in.
i guess I’m just concerned about what I cannot see thru a couple holes.

 

[Redtruck12]

Quick update
well final cleanup and wipe down under the decking, applied the Pl , drilled and screwed the decking down!
first time I could walk inside the hull in close to 6 months
weather has been cool, today about 4deg C
tomorrow is forecast @12deg but that would be the high. I’m hoping to keep it warm enough (with space heaters) to start fillets and filling at the outer edges of the hull and the small gap between the decking and the transom.
my question of the day is;
if my temperatures are close or below 15deg C, what percentage of catalyst should I mix????

 

[chevymaher]

1.5% @15 I wouldn't do it if it is lower.

 

[kcassells]

Fire up the heatwrs, Use a temp gauge and monoxide sniffer. Then you'll see how fast you can raise temps. I can get mine from 40 F to 90 in about 15 minutes. The concern is hull work whereas outside temps still pound away it it. So not a real reading there. Lay a temp gauge on your hull too for that reading. If pouring foam thru a hole on the deck drop the gauge down there on a wire or string and check it for proper temps.Ususally you want 80 f minimum. Check your mfg.
Heat lamps help to to focus on specific areas.

 

[Redtruck12]

Kind of what I was thinking.
i might need to step it up a bit with the heaters.
infortunately I am working in a portable garage (10x20 tent) and currently using 115v 1500w space heaters.
i guess if I am going to get much done over the winter I’m going to need a better heater

 

[kcassells]

This my set up; 3/4" pvc hoops from 1 side fish rod holder to the other side. Or taped to chrome gaurd rail. Also ran a 2x4 down middle and secured pvc to that. The other night kicked it from 40 f to 80f in 15 min.