1974 Duo Vagabond 17' sterndrive Transom and stringers project

kcassells

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Butt joints, both sides, screw or glue or both. Cut ends to 45 angle and glass or fill edge with pb.


IMG_1671_zpsdba83607.jpg
 

Woodonglass

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Here's my 2 cents. 1/2" plywood with 12" overlap both sides. Epoxy glue and screw and the stringer will be stronger than a solid piece of wood.
 

Redtruck12

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Hey
thanks for your inputs....
been a busy week and not much time to spare 😐
This week should be better.

clamps came off after 4 days (only left on that long because I didn't have time to move on )
but everything looks great IMO.
 

Redtruck12

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Well it's been a while, busy with work and family.
Finally getting back to it!
lots of grinding and prep work and also have my first layer of 1708 tabbing the transom and adding thickness working towards my required 2 2 1/8 inches (need to check the exact required dimension).
this weekend I cut and test fitted the stringers replacing 40" port and 55" starboard, 2 coats of poly to seal the plywood with c.s.m. in the second (probably overkill with the 1708 I will be using)???
I sistered the original stringers to tie them into the new sections and started the install before I ran out of time.
1/8-1/4 gap to the inside of the hull . Peanut butter!!!
looking good so far👍
Pictures to follow
 

Redtruck12

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Update time
finally got around to taking some pictures😀
Both stringers sistered, glued and screwed with p.b., bedded roughly 3/8 inch off the hull and bedded in p.b. Filleted and first layer of tabbing completed.
I chose to not wrap over the top of the stringers on tHe first layer of tabbing and am planning on either wrapping over the top on the second and final layer OR doing it as a separate piece after the final tabbing.
Wow did I underestimate the volume of poly I am using! Started my second course of tabbing on the transom. First was full width from the keyhole out. Second layer is about 14 inches on the transom wood and extends to the outer corners of the inside of the hull.
Overall I am happy with the outcome to this point. The 2x4s in the pictures are NOT part of my structure. They are deck height and I am using them to work from to save flexing the hull as I work
 

Redtruck12

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Woodonglass

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It should take about a gallon of resin to lay 36 linear feet of 12" wide CSM. One stringer will take about 1.5 gallons of resin if you do 2 layers of 1708. If you're using more than that then you're using too much. Remember with resin less is best. Just enuf to make it go clear. Try rolling it a bit more before applying more resin. Also roll resin on first and then the glass. IMHO your pictures look pretty good. How much resin have you ujsed?
 

Redtruck12

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Ya I think I’m putting it on a bit thick but not huge. I gallon did both stringers 1 layer of 1708 and that includes bedding and filets. Also redcoats the existing sections of stringers and some old roven weave.
i had another gallon but figured I will be way short by the time I build, coat and glass in the decking. I returned it and got a 5 gallon (20l) pail to be sure I have enough.
I figure I’m paying about $50 for 1 gallon and can get 5 gallons for $160 (Canadian Pesos)🙃
 

Woodonglass

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Well the pics were right. You ARE doing a good job. Yeah, you're deck will take 3-4 gallons. Bottom side gets resin and CSM. Top side gets Resin and Glass.
 

Redtruck12

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I am always planning ahead (or al least trying) and thinking about foam. And also drains into the centre bilge channel and the outer sections that will be filled with foam
I am thinking of drains that can be closed / plugged so I can either have them open and allow drainage or closed and NOT allow water in the bilge channel to flow into the foam cavities.
I have not disturbed the foam beyond the decking I have pulled and it is definitely clean and dry. BUT it’s over 40 years old. Should I dig it all out?
I am thinking foam board spaced off the hull to allow for drainage IF it ever does get wet. Could combine 2 part liquid pour in floatation foam.

would enjoy opinions on both items (drains and foam)
 

Baylinerchuck

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This was something I pondered long and hard. After lots of advice from this forum and much thinking, I decided to not put weep holes, limber holes, or drain tubing in foamed cavities. I came to the conclusion that permanently enclosed cavities, properly fiberglassed, will not get wet. Installing drains, or holes makes it possible for these cavities to get wet. Even with limber holes, once wet, the cavities won’t dry. Totally sealed is best IMO.
 

Redtruck12

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Well another week gone bye.
been thinking ahead to the end of summer and before long winter.
i have had a constant battle with keeping rain out, tarps, new boat cover, still getting some water and darn frustrating .
weather seems to be too wet, too hot or too cold.
The only time the weather is right I'm busy doing other things.
as I am working outside and don't have a large enough garage to get her inside, I decided to buy a "garage in a box" temporary shelter. "Shelter logic" 10x20x8 and spent the weekend re orangization Things, and setting it up in my driveway which is thankfully double wide and aprox. 30 feet long.
Boat fits in it very nicely and should stay dry now.
I figure I can run lights, fan, heater etc as needed and at least work through the fall.
 

Redtruck12

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Update.
very happy to have her enclosed and staying nice and dry. Space heater brings temps up to a comfortable working temp even after dark.
i have finished my second layer of 1708 tabbing and am working out all the details and dimensions for my decking, referring back to my original measurements and photographs.
I have read numerous topics including W.O.G.'s guide to replacing decking.
Replacement section of decking will be 7 feet X 4 feet wide

The 1 question I have is bonding the deck to the tops of the stringers. I realize that the decking will be pre drilled and screwed down whichI assume will be before the 1708 layer?
i was thinking construction adhesive between the stringers and decking? Required?
im also planning 2 layers of 1708 tabbing (10 inch tape and then my final decking layer with overlap on the hull.
make sense? Too muck?
 

kcassells

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You will need to use 5200 or make peanut butter. Counter sink screws and dip in 5200 prior to setting.
-Glass next
-Glass is on the money.
 

Redtruck12

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Thanks for confirming.
i think i will go with the pl5200.the setup time will work better I think
 

kcassells

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