1973 Starcraft SuperSport 16ft. restoration questions

[MNhunter1]

I decided to upgrade all the 5/32" rivets to 3/16" both for increased strength and to reduce the need for a variety of sizes.

Were the 3/16" rivets on the gunnel tops and bow cap visible under the outside trim rail? I was concerned about fitment in that area and decided to stay with the 5/32" on my last two starcrafts.

 

[BWR1953]

Were the 3/16" rivets on the gunnel tops and bow cap visible under the outside trim rail? I was concerned about fitment in that area and decided to stay with the 5/32" on my last two starcrafts.

I'm not sure I understand the question.

But I also need to provide some clarification. I haven't gone through and replaced every 5/32" rivet on the boat with a 3/16" rivet. What I'm doing is replacing the smaller rivets with the larger ones when I find a 5/32" rivet that actually needs to be replaced. And only then.

As for visibility, that's the part I don't understand. I just took this pic of the starboard gunnel, facing aft. Nothing has been replaced there at all and I don't see any rivets.

I'm confused.

 

[MNhunter1]

As for visibility, that's the part I don't understand. I just took this pic of the starboard gunnel, facing aft. Nothing has been replaced there at all and I don't see any rivets.

I'm confused.

View attachment 363034

Yeah, underneath that outside trim piece are a bunch of 5/32" rivet heads that secure the gunnel tops to the hull.

 

[Moserkr]

MNHunter is correct, there are a bunch hiding under that rub rail trim piece. Mine were factory original with the steel shank all rusted out. Ended up pulling all my trim off and replacing them with all aluminum blinds. I also upgraded the size with no issues to hiding them again back under the trim. Its only the head of the rivet that hides under the trim. The tail hides in the gap where the rub rail wraps around. I believe watermann was the one who recommended that to me during my rebuild. I dont remember using any 5/32” blinds on my build, not because I wanted to upgraded, I just was ignorant that there were different sizes lol. So all went up to 3/16” from what I remember and I figured it would only add strength, even on the splash guard trim piece which was a tight fit.

 

[piperjoe]

It is way too hot and humid in Up North Michigan today for me to be working outside on the boat. The day has been productive so far though in that I found the hand drill alignment tool recommended above and the 3M 5200 adhesive/caulk. Came home with both items so I just need to get the rivets now.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[MNhunter1]

It is way too hot and humid in Up North Michigan today for me to be working outside on the boat. The day has been productive so far though in that I found the hand drill alignment tool recommended above and the 3M 5200 adhesive/caulk.

That 3M5200 would flow out nicely in this heat You'll likley find more appreciation for the sarcasm once you start playing with it. Have plenty of gloves, rags, and acetone on hand!

 

[piperjoe]

The 3M 5200 will be interesting to use from what I have heard. I purchase the blue disposable gloves in a box of 100, have lots of paper towels and plenty of acetone on hand. Those gloves and paper towels have been very useful during the paint removal process too.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[piperjoe]

Regarding the rivets holding the trim piece onto the long curved gunwale pieces, I left the trim intact on the gunwale as the rivets holding the trim in place appear solid. I am also considering painting over those trim pieces the same color used on the gunwale assembly. I will confirm a final decision on that idea later on.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[BWR1953]

Regarding the rivets holding the trim piece onto the long curved gunwale pieces, I left the trim intact on the gunwale as the rivets holding the trim in place appear solid. I am also considering painting over those trim pieces the same color used on the gunwale assembly. I will confirm a final decision on that idea later on.

Safe boating,
Joe

I'll probably do the same thing.

 

[piperjoe]

Okay, I am going to show my "I know nothing" rivet intelligence to the world...brave man that I am. LOL

Seriously, I have been doing some basic research because I have no experience with rivets. Have talked to individuals who offer conflicting advice, have stopped in to three different fastener stores and have received different advice on what to use (usually what they carry), have not found out where the rivets are made (probably overseas) or have not even had a consensus on what size to use (I would like to use 3/16"dia. X 5/32" or 3/8" shank. Some of the online information is not clear. I am trying to purchase locally and not order online because of a prior identity theft situation that was not good (pray you don't have to experience that during your lifetime). The only thing that keeps being repeated is to avoid buying rivets for the boat from the big box stores to avoid the possibility of getting soft metal . As an example I had a store owner tell me, a few hours ago, that I should be using Stainless Steel rivets throughout the restoration because it was ok to do so (of course he sold them at a higher price than aluminum rivets)...I don't think so! So if you want to offer some thoughts on the subject, like whether or not rivets from a distributor like Fastenal would be a good choice or not, or whether I should be ordering the rivets from an online store that offers better quality. This may be "old hat" to most of you but it isn't to me. I need to get the right product for the restoration so as to avoid problems popping up (I know...lol) later. Thanks again for your patience and help my friends.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[Alecapone]

Okay, I am going to show my "I know nothing" rivet intelligence to the world...brave man that I am. LOL

Seriously, I have been doing some basic research because I have no experience with rivets. Have talked to individuals who offer conflicting advice, have stopped in to three different fastener stores and have received different advice on what to use (usually what they carry), have not found out where the rivets are made (probably overseas) or have not even had a consensus on what size to use (I would like to use 3/16"dia. X 5/32" or 3/8" shank. Some of the online information is not clear. I am trying to purchase locally and not order online because of a prior identity theft situation that was not good (pray you don't have to experience that during your lifetime). The only thing that keeps being repeated is to avoid buying rivets for the boat from the big box stores to avoid the possibility of getting soft metal . As an example I had a store owner tell me, a few hours ago, that I should be using Stainless Steel rivets throughout the restoration because it was ok to do so (of course he sold them at a higher price than aluminum rivets)...I don't think so! So if you want to offer some thoughts on the subject, like whether or not rivets from a distributor like Fastenal would be a good choice or not, or whether I should be ordering the rivets from an online store that offers better quality. This may be "old hat" to most of you but it isn't to me. I need to get the right product for the restoration so as to avoid problems popping up (I know...lol) later. Thanks again for your patience and help my friends.

Safe boating,
Joe

If you could make the trip, jc's is down in Farmington hills. I believe you can also call you're order in and pay over the phone, then have them delivered. I have my list, but I keep getting home late. I think it will be easier talking to a human then searching for each on their website. They are the guys who operate rivets online. They have been in business for a while, so I'm sure they know their rivets

Rivets by Jay-Cee | Rivets in Stock

Largest Rivet Selection Online. From blind rivets, solid rivets, semi-tubular rivets and all the rivet tools you can imagine; Click for Rivets!

rivetsinstock.com

Not sure if aircraft tool supply has rivets, or a storefront, but they are located in oscoda. They have all the tools for sure..

https://www.aircraft-tool.com/

Both offer a catalog, so they should do phone orders.

 

[BWR1953]

Okay, I am going to show my "I know nothing" rivet intelligence to the world...brave man that I am. LOL

Seriously, I have been doing some basic research because I have no experience with rivets. Have talked to individuals who offer conflicting advice, have stopped in to three different fastener stores and have received different advice on what to use (usually what they carry), have not found out where the rivets are made (probably overseas) or have not even had a consensus on what size to use (I would like to use 3/16"dia. X 5/32" or 3/8" shank. Some of the online information is not clear. I am trying to purchase locally and not order online because of a prior identity theft situation that was not good (pray you don't have to experience that during your lifetime). The only thing that keeps being repeated is to avoid buying rivets for the boat from the big box stores to avoid the possibility of getting soft metal . As an example I had a store owner tell me, a few hours ago, that I should be using Stainless Steel rivets throughout the restoration because it was ok to do so (of course he sold them at a higher price than aluminum rivets)...I don't think so! So if you want to offer some thoughts on the subject, like whether or not rivets from a distributor like Fastenal would be a good choice or not, or whether I should be ordering the rivets from an online store that offers better quality. This may be "old hat" to most of you but it isn't to me. I need to get the right product for the restoration so as to avoid problems popping up (I know...lol) later. Thanks again for your patience and help my friends.

Safe boating,
Joe

Did you read Watermann's rivet thread?

Rivets, rivets and more rivets! (Repaired)

All of us have to learn a new trade when it comes to restoring our 'gently used' riveted aluminum boats. Disputably Starcraft boats are the most popular and prolific aluminum boat of all time and the same rivet questions come up time and time again. Rather than answer each and every question...

forums.iboats.com

 

[piperjoe]

Thank you for the information Alecapone.

Thank you BWR1953. I guess I just messed up. I will be sure not to ask the same rivet questions again.

Readers: please disregard post #570; it was a mistake on my part.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[BWR1953]

Thank you for the information Alecapone.

Thank you BWR1953. I guess I just messed up. I will be sure not to ask the same rivet questions again.

Readers: please disregard post #570; it was a mistake on my part.

Safe boating,
Joe

Hey, I hope you didn't interpret my post as criticism. It wasn't. Just trying to assist.

 

[piperjoe]

Hey, I hope you didn't interpret my post as criticism. It wasn't. Just trying to assist.

There is no problem with your post my friend. I am very embarrassed that I didn't recall reading the rivet thread... and I had even put a "like" on it. And I certainly didn't ask the question that I was seeking an answer to in an understandable manner. Sometimes I get very discouraged with myself when trying to do something correctly and not having much of an idea of what I am doing or what to purchase/not purchase as the restoration takes place. Have given quite a bit of thought to selling/re homing the boat to someone with the knowledge to restore the Starcraft correctly.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[BWR1953]

There is no problem with your post my friend. I am very embarrassed that I didn't recall reading the rivet thread... and I had even put a "like" on it. And I certainly didn't ask the question that I was seeking an answer to in an understandable manner. Sometimes I get very discouraged with myself when trying to do something correctly and not having much of an idea of what I am doing or what to purchase/not purchase as the restoration takes place. Have given quite a bit of thought to selling/re homing the boat to someone with the knowledge to restore the Starcraft correctly.

Safe boating,
Joe

Ahhh... doubt. The bane of DIY folks everywhere.

I'd owned a dozen boats before acquiring the Kingfisher and had never restored one. I only did a couple of very minor repairs and improvements on one of those.

So, when I jumped in to "Frugally Fix Up" the Kingfisher, I had no idea what was required. But, the great folks here on iBoats really made it possible to initially repair the KF enough to get it on the water and then later to get it fully restored from the bottom up. Great crowd here; very knowledgeable and helpful!

After completing the KF, I had enough confidence to start on the Chieftain, which is a much bigger project. I learned a ton from my KF experience including what I'm good at and where I lack abilities. And that knowledge and confidence is what helped me to get the Chief project under way.

Hang in there, you'll get it done!

 

[piperjoe]

Stripped paint again today. One more gunwale piece and those will be done. Assembled the drill guide, punched hole center locations in 14 locations for the transom bolts and drilled a pilot hole through one of the bolt locations to check out the drill guide. The pilot drill was close to center upon exiting the bolt hole, probably because all four drill guide base "shoes" didn't make direct contact on the outside aluminum transom sheet. Also, will look for a smaller diameter drill to use for the pilot holes; perhaps not quite as long as the one I used would be better. Will see what the final drilled hole looks like.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[piperjoe]

What is the general consensus regarding the reuse of the removed hardware items, such as bolts/nuts/screws etc, provided the items aren't corroded or damaged. And those small nails that hold the aluminum transom cap on the wood transom, are those Stainless Steel?

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[Alecapone]

What is the general consensus regarding the reuse of the removed hardware items, such as bolts/nuts/screws etc, provided the items aren't corroded or damaged. And those small nails that hold the aluminum transom cap on the wood transom, are those Stainless Steel?

Safe boating,
Joe

I'm putting all the stainless in a vibrating polisher. If the threads are good. Im going to reuse it.

 

[renns]

Much of my threaded hardware was not stainless, and some had corroded badly after 50 yrs. I tossed all of it, and replaced with new stainless items. Surprisingly, some of the screws like the ones under the rubrail along the gunnel, were still mostly corrosion free after all these years. In your case, if you already have some stainless hardware that isn't damaged, I'd say you'd have no issue reusing them.
That's a cool drill jig you have there! I used the 'level' app on my phone for initial alignment, with a set of helper eyes 90 degrees off to assist. Not perfect, but but given the holes needed a bit of clearance for the beloved 5200, it was all good!