1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

[dozerII]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Real nice job on the brake, you will need a fork lift to move it around.

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Awesome work on that brake.. the bent pieces turned out pro...

 

[classiccat]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

:hail: brakezilla! Top-notch work Ed!

 

[Bestmason]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

:hail: brakezilla! Top-notch work Ed!

Hey everybody thanks for support here are the last two pics of Brakezilla all finished and painted:



Now back to the tinny. I have a couple of questions. In the following pic I have outlined the approx size scab I am going to rivet own the outside to cover the hole and provide extra support. Does this look appropriate and would you go further toward the bow and go under the middle chine an inch or two?


2nd question in the following pic you will see rivets on the boat hull that are corroded on the outside. The rivet head is intact but would you replace them before I paint the hull.



The last question is which rivet alloy would you use? The rivets on the Starcraft has a dimple on the head so I am assuming they are 2117 alloy. Or would you use the softer 1100 alloy rivet.
Thank you again. ED

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

I'm pretty sure BF will stop by on the structure question, but IMHO I would go a little further forward to catch that next row of rivets. I used the softer alloy rivets on the advice of the fellow I purchased them from, not saying it was right but they are easy to set.
Paint job on the brake makes it look awesome.

 

[classiccat]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Wow Ed, that brake almost looks too pretty to use! Awesome job on it!

That is some nasty corrosion that appears to have originated on the inner metal (standing water under the knee brace & bad grounding?). Regarding the size of your patch, I like to keep my external patches as small as possible to avoid trapping water and causing more damage down the road.

I'm at a stage of removing suspicious rivets (i.e. corroded heads, wormhole corrosion around the rivet, distorted/eroded heads, etc.). In most cases, the rivet head corrosion seemed superficial; the stem was in good shape & the hole in the hull-skin was sound.

I too have been using 1100F. Still very strong & you'll get a better set with it. I personally prefer 3/16" over 5/32". I'll let you know in 20 years whether or not that was a good idea

Good-on-you for sticking with this hull! If it turns-out 1/2 as good as that brake, it's going to be better-than-factory when you're done with her! :thumb:

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Oh wow brakezilla! Very nicely done.

I think that size of patch plate would do fine there, if not even overkill and I don't really see any reason to go under the center chine.

Rivets are cheap and very easy to replace. If you don't like the look of them, get rid of the suckers. I have the 3/6ths solid brazier head with the center dimple, don't know about the grade number.

 

[pckeen]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

That's a remarkable home built tool. They just advertised a brake locally, looking just like that....for $1000

At this rate, we may have to rename you Clark Kent.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Painted the brake looks like you just picked it up from Brakes R Us. Nice!.

On the scab - What does the inside of the hull look like? You might not need such a large scab. But an outside scab is needed, for sure.

Rivets, in my opinion - Replace any with damaged/corroded heads. I'm not saying the rivet strength is compromised, but for peace of mind, what are a few more.

 

[classiccat]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Hi Ed, I expedited the fabrication of my outer knee-brace 'scab' to illustrate my vision of what's needed.

 

[Bestmason]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

BF I like downsizing the patch on the outside I was thinking more of support for the transom brace so what I may do is add more support on the inside out of the water. I did remove some rivets yesterday but plan on removing cross member closest to the transom to check on corrosion because it was full of debris and I suspect there may be some corrosion there. I will post pics of what I find tonight.

 

[vintage2]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Wow!! That brake is awesome. Looks like you are very comfortable with metalwork. Keep up the good work and I'll be following your rebuild since I'm back to working on my SS.

 

[Bestmason]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

OK everyone I took the plunge and removed the cross member closest to the transom, this is what I found:




I hope I have not scared everyone who has an old tinny. There is definitely some deep corrosion under cross member. A couple spots are as deep as I have found.


In the pic above shows a spot that is not near the center in the trough so to speak. So what to do. Do I clean it well and then I think it is called Marine Tex the spots then sand etch and prime before replacing the cross member? I am thinking of removing up to five more braces but maybe two at time. I could put an 18" aluminum piece down the center with 5200 and riveted in place on the inside of the hull. So what do you think. Thanks ED

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

clean it well and then use marine tex.

I am with Bluefin, I look to keep exterior patches as small as possible, what you are doing will work but, I believe its way overkill.

If I were removing braces I would do no more than one at a time.

 

[classiccat]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

ugh, that looks rough.

clean-up the dirt/grime then dig-out the corrosion from the pits with a dremel.

check the depth of each pit; I used a dental pick & feeler gauges.

Clean/fill the pits with marine tex. If any are close to being completely through, I'd put an external patch buttered with 5200. the marine tex will prevent water from collecting in those pits in the future.

Where it gets tricky is at the "V" due to the keel. Interior patching here is tough because it's also a limber hole. Hopefully no patching is needed @ the V! ray:

If any are completely through, put some masking tape over the hole on the outside before you apply the Marine tex.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Oh man that poor old gal has seen some better days, just like my Chief it suffered from neglect and saltwater. By cross member I assume your talking about the ribs. Fortunately for me when my Chief was in the brine it didn't have any leaks to cause that sort of corrosion. Otherwise I would be doing what your doing... removing them one by one.

I hate to say it but when I start feeling down about my Chief, coming here keeps me from throwing in the towel. Just seeing guys working their rear ends off to save one of these boats when it would be way easier and probably cheaper to just find one turn key. Of course that's not what guys like us who come here do, we find someone's junk and turn it into our treasure.

Keep fighting the good fight Ed! :encouragement:

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Nasty case of corrosion there, I thought BF's was bad. I know for one I would throw the towel in on either of your two projects, but that"s just me, you guys must be braver than me.