1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

[Bestmason]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

I have a couple of questions:

1)I removed the white styrofoam flotation and it is not waterlogged. Is it reusable or should I use Dow Board? It looks fine to me.

2)What stripper do I use to remove the paint? Is "Airplane Stripper" the best?



3)Notice the light blue under gunnel. Is it original? Does anyone have pics of original paint schemes?

Thanks in advance. ED

 

[Bestmason]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Ok so are you trying to light a fire under all the rest of us by speeding through your teardown? I'm just kidding.. Really great looking progress so far. You really do make me want to go straight out to the garage and rip my rotten transom out like tonight.

Boy I would not want to do a floor removal every day. I am ready to fabricate!

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Honestly its incredibly difficult to say if that is original. Throw the original foam out, and go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy some High density extruded pink or blue insulation styrofoam. Aircraft Stripper is what most people in the US use, Dozer and a few of the Canuks use something different. You did save the original bow floor piece RIGHT.

Use this for the flotation

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...-Squared-Edge-Foam-45W/100320352#.UtX-eWco7cs


I have also used this in the past with good results

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-gal-KS-3-Premium-Stripper-GKS3/100144685#

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

If the styro is dry and not crumbly, you could consider reuse, but it does shed bits that block limber holes in the ribs and things like bilge pumps. Personally, I could replace it with the pink/blue foam board like Sig said.

That white paint looks like latex. A pressure washer might take care of it. You are going to town! :joyous:

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

If you KNOW it's a 1972 18ft'r, it was probably only offered in 1 color scheme for that year & model:
1972
W/ the blue, probably not an 18ft Nova or Holiday:

Modified 18ft SS perhaps:

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

1972 and up should have a HIN plate, right?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

I think the official enforcement date is 11/1972. But many started earlier, since there's so many of us now, you'd think there would be a general consensus that SC started using them in 19xx, but I don't think we've ever gotten a firm, known date.

And as a tin boat, early on they were stamped (like a glass boat still is) but many were tagged rather then stamped too.

Well this isn't any help:
[h=3]HINVALID : A Guide to HINs - HINValid.com[/h]

A boat's Hull Identification Number (HIN) is similar to the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) found on cars and trucks. As per the U.S. Coast Guard, all boats built in the U.S. since 1972 must have a unique HIN. Like a VIN, a HIN's location for display is standardized, though that location varies more with boats as they tend to be of radically different designs.

and about 1/2 way down the page:

Does every boat have a HIN?
As per the USCG, all 1973 and newer model boats have HINs. If your boat is older, it probably does not have a HIN.

I guess the english majors among us will tell me that the 1st reads: Since 1972 (as in AFTER 1972). Which agrees w/ the 2nd: all 1973 and newer.....

And from another site entirely:

All boats manufactured or imported on or after November 1, 1972 must bear a HIN (Hull Identification Number), a 12 character serial number that uniquely identifies your boat.

Then compound the HIN data/year 'problem' w/ the fact that some SC's have the year listed directly in the HIN (So BestMason's HIN w/ start or end w/ 72), others don't :facepalm:

 

[Bestmason]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

If the styro is dry and not crumbly, you could consider reuse, but it does shed bits that block limber holes in the ribs and things like bilge pumps. Personally, I could replace it with the pink/blue foam board like Sig said.

That white paint looks like latex. A pressure washer might take care of it. You are going to town! :joyous:

Boy I know you are right about it shedding. I was actually thinking of shrink wrapping it if I used it again.


JB thanks for the pic. I think i see my boat.

I do have the hull number. I will post it tonight!

 

[boatbeginner1]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Your coming along great and fast! Making me a bit jealous...

Keep it up!

 

[jvanhees]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Good work so far! Are you going to keep the center console or go side consoles?

 

[Bestmason]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Today is 3rd day of demo on I now know it is a 1973 18' Starcraft Supersport Outboard. This is where I started this morning:



This is what I finished with:



All went well today until I removed the lower transom support. Look what I found:



I have two drain holes instead of one. When I removed the support there was about 2-3 inches of sand and debris built up inside the support. I do not believe it will be to difficult to repair. I will clean the area well and sandwich another piece of material with 5200 and then rivet in place with solid rivets. Does this sound adequate?

Now I and wrestling with whether to totally rebuild the transom brace or repair the original.

Here is a slide show of what I did today:

Day 3 Of Demo Slideshow by Bestmason | Photobucket

Notice the badly corroded part of the transom is gone. I contacted Eastern Metal Supply in Charlotte, NC and they have all the 5052 Aluminum I need. Tomorrow I will start stripping paint!


I did find the hull ID. it is "STR 33935 M 73 J" It is titled as a 1973 not 1972.

Question, after I strip, clean, and remove all the corrosion I can find, what do I wash the boat with to stop the active corrosion?
After that can I Prime with etching primer? Thanks ED

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Rinse w/ 50/50 white vinegar & water, then rinse w/ water. Yes, bare aluminum needs ZC or SE primer.

1973 is one of the years we don't have brochure pages for, so OEM color scheme will be tricky unless you can sand/scrape thru to original paint.....

 

[Thalasso]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Non-structural plastic foam.
There are several types of foam that can be used. The main criteria is that the material should be able to withstand the combined effects of petroleum products like gasoline, bilge solvents, and fresh and salt water.

The most common type of plastic foam used for flotation purposes is the urethane type, available in blocks or sheets, or in "pour-in-place" kits.Foam in low densities is not recommended for use below the waterline because it absorbs water to easily.
Use urethane foams of 4.0 lbs. per cubic foot density or greater

"Styrofoam", a registered trade name of Dow Chemical). This foam is cheap (at least in relation to other plastic foams) and readily available. However, it is not suitable as a flotation material, at least in its natural state. Without additional treatment, this type of foam is attacked on contact by polyester resins, and its resistance to gasoline is poor. It can, however, be sealed with epoxy resins

 

[classiccat]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

^^^ Wow! My kind of resto!

For the course/mechanical corrosion removal, I've found that the Nyalox Orange cupped brush is a nice combination of aggressive removal while preserving aluminum/rivets, etc. Wear a respirator...the dust is pretty harsh.

 

[Bestmason]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Hey men thanks for all the replies, I will be prepping and fabricating the new transom skin today. Couple of questions:

1)The area where I will sandwich two pieces of aluminum together, do I need to prep and paint the aluminum first or can I just use 5200 in between to pieces of bare aluminum?

This is what I am thinking from all of your great posts:

Sand and remove all paint an corrosion if any
Wipe down with 50/50 white vinegar water
Rinse
Repeat Vinegar wash
Rinse
Let Dry
Prime with light coat Self Etching Primer
Two Build coats primer sanding in between
Two top coats
5200 and sandwich aluminum
Screw and rivet together

Does this sound correct? Do I need to add a step? Thanks ED

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

I don't think you would want anything between the sheets of aluminum, strip, clean, 5200, and then rivet the patch on.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

I guess I'm wondering if your rivets will be in the way of sliding your transom in? Or maybe you are talking about riveting outside of where the transom will actually be eh?

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Once you wipe down the hull with the Vinegar mix don't touch it with your bare hands.

 

[old islander]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

Hi bestmason, welcome, and nice project. Hey, want to save a pile of cash on your flotation? Get a large empty cardboard box and mail to Jas with return postage. That guy will set you up with the most cost effective flotation on this site.:laugh:

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1972 18' Starcraft Restoration

I use vinegar too, it is acidic and the corrosion is alkaline. I don't dilute it rather I use this...



I use a fine wire wheel to remove the corrosion from the pitting and if you can't get it all cleaned by wiping, I have some in a spray bottle too.

Don't prime the surfaces if using 5200, it's not needed.