1969 Mako cut and gut project by Lectro88

[Lectro88]

Turned out better and easier than expected.
So progressed to next level of madness.

 

[gm280]

Interesting concept. I did that a little differently when I was confronted with the variable angles everywhere in my hull. But like I said a lot of times before, there is no one way only to do most anything. And I see you are like most of us. And that is we all wanted to do the absolute best effort rebuilding our boat projects to make them last and last. I went as far as dado-ing joints together for the added strength. Nothing wrong with building over board. So if you like it, go for it... But remember, you have to post pictures on here or it never happened. Thumbs Up!

 

[Lectro88]

I have had a absolutel terrible time posting pics today.

Here is corner PB’d and the angle in place.
I am not going to glass this prototype.

But you get the idea

Interesting concept. I did that a little differently when I was confronted with the variable angles everywhere in my hull. But like I said a lot of times before, there is no one way only to do most anything. And I see you are like most of us. And that is we all wanted to do the absolute best effort rebuilding our boat projects to make them last and last. I went as far as dado-ing joints together for the added strength. Nothing wrong with building over board. So if you like it, go for it... But remember, you have to post pictures on here or it never happened. Thumbs Up!

Yes, I started this morning doing a practice run of mini-Lap Joints, and that worked so good I transposed to this plato of insanity.
I took my 12" blade off mitre and removed adapor/reducer and installed 7-1/4" spacered or gloryfied dado, But these were 2 full on blades not dados.
Now when you install 7-1/4" blades on 12" slider compound dewalt...
The stop is just perfect to 1/2 cut a 1 by for lap joint.
I know they didn't plan that.
However you have to put a board against bench to cut all across entire board.
I will post pics from phone, computer or Mac is troublesome.

 

[Lectro88]

Kinda odd to run 2 smaller blades on a 12” mitre.
DON’t TRY THIS AT HOME. !

The smaller blades keep you off the bed of the saw.
I’m surprised everything fell together like this. I mean you couldn't have planned it any better.
Engineers goofed.
I have a table saw but this way is much easier less board movement and slider is like old school radial arm saw. so you move blade not the board except slight back and forth. for make shift dado cuts.

 

[Lectro88]

So my cut and gut thread has wood shop class too..Lol.

I was somewhat concerned the thin layers of wood being weak to break under load in the radius. In a pounding situation.
Anyone see a potential problem with this.?
I figure the epoxy and by time it gets glass over it, things should be ok.

Thanks everyone for your help and replies.

 

[Lectro88]

Interesting concept. I did that a little differently when I was confronted with the variable angles everywhere in my hull. But like I said a lot of times before, there is no one way only to do most anything. And I see you are like most of us. And that is we all wanted to do the absolute best effort rebuilding our boat projects to make them last and last. I went as far as dado-ing joints together for the added strength. Nothing wrong with building over board. So if you like it, go for it... But remember, you have to post pictures on here or it never happened. Thumbs Up!

Yes gm280.
I tend to over-do everything.
Being an industrial/commercial electrician is how the "good one's" do things.
I made a terrible residential electrician... I was good but the profit margin suffered.
I don't do code minimum "Anything"
But yes I tend to strive for a new and improved IDEAR (idea)

 

[Lectro88]

So my cut and gut thread has wood shop class too..Lol.

I was somewhat concerned the thin layers of wood being weak to break under load in the radius. In a pounding situation.
Anyone see a potential problem with this.?
I figure the epoxy and by time it gets glass over it, things should be ok.

Thanks everyone for your help and replies.

Since we turned the page.
Those cuts don’t go all the way through as they may look in some of the pics.
Here is another angle.
And this is an exagated radius.
Just seeing how far I could push things.
I guess one could apply penetrating epoxy and soften the fibers in bending.
All kinds of options could apply here.
Like I said this was just a “see if this will work” idea.

 

[Lectro88]

So my cut and gut thread has wood shop class too..Lol.

I was somewhat concerned the thin layers of wood being weak to break under load in the radius. In a pounding situation.
Anyone see a potential problem with this.?
I figure the epoxy and by time it gets glass over it, things should be ok.

Thanks everyone for your help and replies.

Ok guys, I'm going to answer this question myself.
After just 7 hours of hanging above wood heater in basement, this piece was tough as nails.. absolute No Worries about anything being weak, or breaking at the thin slices.
Now on the ones I actually build for the boat, the segmentation will be further apart and more gradual of a radius.
So even less of a concern.
I think I am going to be pleased with this outcome.

 

[mickyryan]

if i recall your mako hull has foam on sides and the back is bonded to the bottom at transom

 

[Lectro88]

if i recall your mako hull has foam on sides and the back is bonded to the bottom at transom

Do you mind if I PM you.

 

[mickyryan]

not at all man feel free

 

[Lectro88]

I finally got cap off.
With help from 2 neighbors.
I cut the transom cross support of cap and it was the rotten ply in trans.. that had everything locked down.
After I peeled fiberglass off rotten ply the corner surrendered and the cap did put up a good battle. But we had it off in 30min.
I have poked, picked and prodded at getting the cap off for months.
Amazing how much flex you get in hull after 1 component is removed.

 

[gm280]

WOW with that type lifting machine, I can't see how any of it gave any issues.

Two issues I see already. Obviously ROT. And that surely needs replaced. Second is the foam. If any of it is water-logged or even wet, time to replace all of it while you are at this stage. But remember this, when you reassembly the hull again, you will absolutely know it was build back better then the factory ever could.

One thing you really need to do NOW! You need to support the sides so when you do try to recap it back, the actual cap will fit on. It is so easy to do all that work and the sides splay out enough to never allow the cap to fit back on. So take measurements NOW and tons of pictures of everything from every angle and support the hull as you refurbish it. You will certainly appreciate all that down the road... JMHO

 

[Lectro88]

I can’t tell you how many times I have lifted boat off bunks by cleats and got inside hull and prayed up under gunnel and bottom of hull with 2x8 and leverage point. Multiple places.
And jabbed up between gunnel to cut foam as much to break bond.
I plan to remove foam then put cap back on and build cradle for hull then start repairs.

 

[Lectro88]

GM280
This is a total rebuild.
Been my intention to replace foam and transom, along with stringers.
I am leaving no bolt or screw unturned.

Long story short it will be a custom build that I couldn’t afford to buy new.
And truth be known probably better or more meticulous work than factory. Or original.

Thanks for all help... and that’s everyone.

 

[todhunter]

One thing you really need to do NOW! You need to support the sides so when you do try to recap it back, the actual cap will fit on. It is so easy to do all that work and the sides splay out enough to never allow the cap to fit back on.

I'm certainly not doubting that it's possible this can happen, but does anyone have a link to a thread or some first-hand story of someone actually rebuilding a boat with no cradle and the cap not being able to be put back on?

 

[Lectro88]

I'm certainly not doubting that it's possible this can happen, but does anyone have a link to a thread or some first-hand story of someone actually rebuilding a boat with no cradle and the cap not being able to be put back on?

I don’t have a link or a 1st hand story.
But my opinion is... grain salt...
I don’t think.. THINK that as much flex as MY hull has, that it would refuse to go back together, however I’m not risking that.
What I could see is the hull relaxing for a lack of better words. And you secure or glue supports in that state or shape,... then you would be forcing or flexing it back into shape and it’s in a constant bind or under stress now all the time,.
And beating around and banging under undue stress I could see a snowball of problems from that like stringers busting loose in extreme cases or fatigue cracks that wouldn’t have normally showed.
That’s just my humble opinion.
In addition.. I didn’t like the upward stress of the trailer bunks after I split cap/hull, yes I could see the pressure points when I stepped in and wiggled hull on trailer.
This is a different learning curve for me.

 

[mickyryan]

I'm certainly not doubting that it's possible this can happen, but does anyone have a link to a thread or some first-hand story of someone actually rebuilding a boat with no cradle and the cap not being able to be put back on?

last 2 builds i had no cradle but i did make sure that the bottom was well supported and not flexed by bunks i can see a hull getting out of shape by a roller and then you glassing inside and that keeping the out of shape shape , same with bunks if not on a chine

 

[mickyryan]

grats on the cap removal i figured it was transom holding you together the most

 

[Lectro88]

grats on the cap removal i figured it was transom holding you together the most

I have many pics to upload, But that will be later, prob tomorrow..
Have to upload from phone(outside for signal)then get back on computer and edit or narrate