1968 Starcraft Sprint V Rebuild

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BigMikey86

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

2x6's are perfect, you'll only need one row. I'm not sure if your planning on using the whole 10 foot boards under your 15 or 16' little tinny. 2 - 3 feet won't even touch due to the V in the hull. 2 , 2x6 x 6 foot bunks would work fine with a keel roller up front.

Forgot: I don't know anyone who has used those rods on their boat.

I was planning on just cutting the board in half and running 5 foot bunks. hopefully that should be enough support.

After reading through bluefin16's rebuild, Ive had my eyes opened and now realize i have a couple of patch to make up for rivet day haha. Unfortunately everything is closed till Tuesday so looks like I'll be making sure the trailer is extra finished this weekend.
 
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GA_Boater

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

Blue turned a leaky bucket into The Queen Of The Seas. As much as he beefed her up, actually The Amazon Queen.

I'm having trouble finding good forum links for using the rods. Peeps say how well it works or it sucks. The positive ones link to the same YouTube vids you had, Mikey.
 

BigMikey86

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

Hmmm i'm skeptical of them a little too but at the same time would rather use the rods then have to cut and rivet all the support plates. If i go with the plates i would only make outer plate patches considering this boat and it's plethora of wonderful modifications.

What gauge and grade of aluminum should i be picking up from the metal store?
 
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Watermann

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

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Mikey I had the same troubles as most guys, here are some pics from my thread.

Rib end cracks



The repair on my small rib end cracks... shown here being held in my clecos before riveting




What they can become of not repaired as seen in Grandad's Holiday.

 

BigMikey86

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

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Holy snighkies! I definitely do not want that to happen anytime soon!..I'll get on making those plates up. I wish it wasn't the weekend cause everything I need is closed :S. I'm at work wish I could be working in the boat in this amazing sunshine. Hope to finish the trailer when I get home and I'll post pics when completed. Till later gents
 

jbcurt00

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Try to find a metal recycler yard that'll sell ya some aluminum, hopefully cheap. Several iboater have gotten a good bit of patch material from recyclers. More then 1 has paid penny's on the dollar for boat hardware parts & pieces too.
 

GA_Boater

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I tried searching the forums using the iboats search and finally resorted to using Google site search feature looking for posts about using the rods. BTW - Google search is much better because it pinpoints the post containing the search term(s).

Any way, I came up with nada squat. As I said above plenty of hits, one or two pics of so/so results and plenty of links to the supplier videos.

It might be worthy starting a thread asking if any one has used the things successfully and results/application pics or vids.

I'm beginning to think these are related to the White Unicorn, plenty of reported sightings but no pictures. LOL
 

BigMikey86

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

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Make believe or not I'm going to give her a shot. Really interested in seeing how it works. This weather is going to be the end of me though. And my old sick dog that had to go to the vet Sunday :S. God does not want me to finish this boat. With a hull like mine I can't blame him :p. I managed to get the trailer rigged up before I left..still have to carpet the boards. I was going to ask though. Am I on the right track or should I have made my bunks 6 feet long and have my bunk support posts on the 1st and 3rd trailer crossbeams? The PO setup was horrible and I had redrill all the keel roller holes due to them being way off alignment.



Or should I make 6 foot bunks and move the bunk supports forward like this?



Also can I get away with using the closed blind rivets for my repairs or should I be looking into investing in a riveting hammer and bucking bar for solid rivets?. I'd rather use the closed blinds if possible. I also returned the aluminum/steel ones I bought and went for all aluminum closed blind rivets.

 
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BigMikey86

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

lol should this be in the trailer section?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

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You may need to get the boat ON or over the trailer to decide where you should mount the bunk brackets. And get an idea of where the BACK end of the bunk will be. Just forward of that is where the transom should be sitting on them. It doesn't look like 6ft bunks will stick back past the rear cross member AND stick forward of the bracket mounted to the 3rd cross member:
B824B8E0-FB12-43B7-A3F0-42A0ED8AC38D_zpszchoixfn.jpg


Lots of fella's pushing to finish their own boat & drop 'em in the water soon, so traffic slows a bit in late spring.....

Once you get the boat on the bunks, you can adjust the tongue weight a little bit by moving the winch post forward or back a bit. If you need to make major adjustments to the tongue weight, you can move the axle forward or back a little.

So, it's ^^^ not entirely settled until you get a fully rigged boat loaded on the trailer. Go for close.

YES, you can use those closed end blind rivets. Major reconstruction and fabrication of critical load rivets, I'd definitely use solid rivets. Many use the closed end blind for those too.
 

BigMikey86

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

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Alrighty i'll have to get her all done up then and see how she fits once shes loaded. I received my package in the mail today! came damn quick!.



I'm going to try tomorrow on some scrap aluminum and see how it works out. They gave me a sheet with step by step instructions and said to make sure to use the proper tip, not a pencil and brazing tip. TS4000 was the suggestion and Mapp gas as it burns 200 degrees hotter than propane. They underlined the section about getting the aluminum hot enough, and not to melt the rod with the flame but to have the metal hot enough that it melts the rod itself. they stated that unless you get the aluminum beyond 737 degrees, the pores of the metal wont open and receive the hts-2000. I'll try and report!
 

GA_Boater

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Come on, Mikey. You're not supposed to read directions until you melt the last rod and it didn't work. Turn in your Man Card! :lol:

Be waiting to see how it works for you.
 

BigMikey86

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Hahaha too late, i turned it in when i bought this boat. Got back my dumb kid card though.
 
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BigMikey86

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

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Well after going to the hardware store and picking up a benzomatic special I was feeling good. There was a reason for that good feeling too.



I got home and didn't get around to trying it till the evening so the pictures are on the darker side. But we have a wiener!

Before:



After (with some heavy hearted smacks of a mallet and a punch on the hole).



Ended up caving in the aluminum. She works boys. HTS-2000 + following instructions.

Trout opener is this weekend so the boat won't even be looked at until next week. Now to figure out the best way to tackle the repair.
 

GA_Boater

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

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One thing to try is make the work piece vertical and try. I've read that can be tricky.
 

BigMikey86

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Yeah i'll give her a shot vertical next time. The stuff is very sticky to itself so i doubt it'll be a problem but ill try!. I have some angle stock to try on, wanted to make that T of aluminum they smack in the video, problem was its 2 degree's out with a good gust tonight and when i tried to heat the angle stock i couldn't keep it hot enough. The metal was dissipating the heat too quickly. I think the trick to that is to tin both pieces separately then re heat them together heating at the joint and feed more rod to bond both pieces. They explain everything in their instructions as well. I'll try soon and post the results!.
 
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BigMikey86

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

After trout opener, getting sick, and with the wifey's grandmother dying its been damn near impossible to work on the boat!. Ive finally decided to go the proper route and use solid rivets. My problem now is finding a place in canada that sells 1/4 and 3/16 aluminum brazier head rivets by the 100, not 1000.

Ive managed to source these but i'm wondering whether they will have enough of a head to seal properly, also is 1/2" length long enough?



Also what gauge and grade of aluminum should i get for making the rib end plates to fix the cracks and making a splash well? any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Watermann

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

3/16" x 1/2" will cinch down perfectly through 3 pieces of .080 but may be a bit too long for 2 pieces. Not sure what your planning on banging together with those monster 1/4" but I like how you think... :heh:

Oh yeah and those 1100 grade are VERY soft and will turn to mush in a hurry on the bucktail side so do a few practice runs. I used the hard 2117 for the hull stiffeners 3/16" x 3/8" going through 2 pieces of AL and the 1/2" 1100 for the 3 pieces.
 
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