1968 Starcraft Sprint V Rebuild

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SigSaurP229

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Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

Re: 1960's Starcraft Something or other

JB you are a big fan of your new emoticons I see. :wink:
 

BigMikey86

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I bought a gallon of Rustoleum at Lowes. I used roughly 3 quarts thinned at 15% with Acetone, I mixed it up 16 ounces at a time and added a teaspoon of MAGIC brand hardner from tractor supply. I was able to produce these results.


You wouldn't hear a word outta my mouth with a paint job like that :). That's pretty much what i'm looking for right there. I understand that the prep work is the basis of any quality paint job and that you get out what you put in. I check lowes website and they have Rustoleum professional but could only see spray cans online. I'll have to go in and check but i found this stuff for $42 for 3.78L at the depot of homes



I'm going to go to my old auto parts and paint place where I'll still get a 20% discount if my buddy is still kicking around there. Fingers crossed lol. I'll let you boys know how she goes tomorrow, hope to have warm enough weather to spray my bunk brackets and keel roller assemblies and then put the trailer all back together. All i have to say is $%#@ off already old man winter!.
 

dozerII

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Now you're in the recovery ward, Mikey. :)

I would only grind to make a flat surface for re-riveting the keel. It's much heavier than the hull metal. I would be worried about cutting through the hull for a cosmetic look.

On the paint, you're talking trailer and then zinc chromate. If you don't have an AL trailer, you don't need ZC for it. I might just be misreading. For the black, I don't think you can go wrong with the Canadian version of Rustoleum with added hardener. I can't remember the brand name of Maple Leaf Rusto.

Tremclad sucks, it is supposed to be Canadian Rusto but it isn't. It is very slow curing even with hardener, and just doesn't work as well as Rusto. Acklands Grainger carries Rusto pro, and Homedepot carries regular Rusto.
 

BigMikey86

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Thanks dozer, theres an ackland grainger just up the highway. I'll check em out tomorrow. Unfortunately today's weather was still on the nippy side and not to suitable for painting a trailer. Tomorrow were looking at a high of 11 so fingers crossed i can actually get some damn work done!. Planned out the vinyl flooring and tomorrow i'm ordering 6 yards of nautolex seaway in gray shark



I'm still contemplating covering the casting deck in carpet for some barefoot relief in the high of summer. I also decided to cover the top of the gunwales with nautolex as well to have a durable surface that i wont have to repaint with all the scratches from rods, lures, nets, etc..Plus i think it would look sharp!

I'm back on track gentlemen and my plans is in motion. Sunday will be the south toronto re-rivet event of 2014 in my driveway so expect pictures, complaints, possible crying shots, who knows with this crazy boat!
 

Watermann

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Yeah that gray shark is what I've picked out too for my project, I think it looks real sharp and clean.
 

GA_Boater

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You musta hit on a cute nurse so you aren't in a hurry to leave recovery. :lol:

Glad you got the plan. Mikey. :D Sounds good!
 

SigSaurP229

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yep hot deck on a summer day is why I carpet all of my boats.
 

dozerII

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Never had a problem with Nautolex in the hot sun, it doesn't seem to get real hot like a painted surface. Only issue with it is if you drag a toe or a knee it will remove skin.:rolleyes:
 

BigMikey86

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Ouch! well the only skin i want to lose on my boat is from the fish i catch! haha. I do bleed out all my keepers once i catch them, so the vinyl will be a god sent once the boats in the water, but i'm still rocking the carpet for my casting deck. I was wondering though if you guys could help me with a few question though.

That factory brown goop from SC, seeped out in some spots on the outside of the hull. Some spots are seep free but would it be safe to trim the seep out to make a clean line for paint? i wont pull any out, just cleaning the edge for paint.



After some stainless steel wiring brushing shes starting to look clean.



Also how would one go about sanding some rough spots down a tad. The $H!Thea...i mean PO was pretty rough on her. Recommendation on grit?



I went by my local lumber store in search of ply for my floor. I'm trying to calculated Cost vs. Labour of Exterior vs. Marine. My yard gets 4x8 sheets of marine in 1/2" for $95 or 3/4" for $105. Exterior ply in 4x8 sheets are $35 for 1/2" and $42 for 3/4". My question is, can i get by with 1/2" and to seal exterior ply do i just use a wood sealer/waterproofer? and how much would i go through with how many coats?
 

SigSaurP229

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I think for the most part everyone on the forums uses ACX or Arauco standard exterior grade. I prefer 5/8" inches for the floor its a little beefier than 1/2" but doesn't cause the alignment issues of 3/4"


Or you going to epoxy or spar seal it?

There are varying opinions on each and this can start quite a debate.

I beleive spar is acceptable for minimum quality standards

I beleive Epoxy is far superior and will far outlast spar varnish by all stretches.


I used 2 gallons epoxy to 1/2 gallon hardner for my 18' it was purchased before IBoats had an epoxy section.

I used a gallon and a quart of Spar to seal the 16' ss

The Epoxy cost me $138
The Spar cost me $45

SHe is cleaning up and looking really good keep at it and before you know it you will be onto paint.
 

BigMikey86

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Well considering i'll be on the fence this year with whether or not to keep the boat I'm trying to keep costs down a tad. I'll If the spar works then accompanied with the nautolex it shouldn't absorb much water, at least for the first season. Again, fingers crossed lol.

How many coats should i do of the spar? This stuff goes for $23 a gallon, $11 a quart. $34 not bad.

 
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jbcurt00

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It's a fairly even split epoxy vs spar, and spars at least better then nothing, which is what SC used..............

I'd go at least 2X on both faces, and coat the edges w/ every coat (they'll get 4coats). 1 more coat @each face (2more @ edges) would be even better. More now should translate to more longevity.
 

Watermann

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Hey don't obsess over little imperfection and dimples in your old tin, that's part of it's charm.

The thing about marine ply is that it has more layers, is way stronger and doesn't have the sag of regular ext ply when used in decking. Marine 1/2 has 5 layers and 3/4 has 7. You can get by with regular ext ply any where except for decking. To a degree epoxy and spar will also toughen up the ply too making it stiffer.

I use the helmsman spar.
 

GA_Boater

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Mikey - I used exterior 5/8" Arauco plywood to replace SCs and POs 1/2" ply. It's stiffer than the 1/2" and the widest span is about 2' from stringer to the side. It's solid as a rock.

I'm a spar guy. I did 3 coats top and bottom with six on the edges using Helmsman. It's been down for three years now and over the winter I pulled up some of the carpet during work. It looks like I sparred it yesterday. A few dark spots, but I reused my old carpet and I know it wasn't the cleanest with old dirt leeching through. Nautolex one of these days.
 

dozerII

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What GA say said all the way^^, If you boat is kept covered when not in use, ply sealed with spar should last a lifetime, to buy epoxy up here in the GWN it is just too much $$. Those prices you have on Helmsman are real good about 1/3 what I have to pay out west.
 

BigMikey86

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Yeah i think i'll go with the spar and save my wallet some much unwanted stress. I thought they were good as well! until i went into canadian tire and realized their website sucks! and showed the wrong price for the amount i needed haha. I should have expected it!.

I was so excited waking up to get some much needed and anticipated work done on this project. Until i went outside and saw the grey skies looming overhead. They weren't supposed to show up until later. I still went ahead and did some painting on the trailer. I managed to spray the inner's of the C-channels with truck bed liner and got a coat done on the outside. Came inside for breakfast and on my departure began the rains arrival. luckly i had a tarp close and it was already sitting for an hour or so.



Noticing the rain was sticking around for little i went to lowes, picked up some uv, mildew resistant, high wear ribbed carpet for the bunks and got a 2x6x10' of cedar. After cutting the carpet, i wrapped and just drop a couple staples in to tact and see how it looks. Question though, should i have gotten 2x8x10'. Better weight distribution?



While looking over the boat in the rain with nothing to do i was thinking about how to fix a few small cracks i have stemming from rivets. I was searching the net for ways and came across these amazing looking brazing rods. HTS-2000 and their video of the product is wicked, although it seems from 1989. I was wondering if the benzomatic brazing rods are similar.

Would i be able to heat up the aluminum around the cracks with a propane torch, and just touch the cracks with the brazing rod without distorting the aluminum? They have some pic testimonials praising it.
 
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jbcurt00

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I've never used those rods, and the only SC guy to use them, as best I can remember, was Jas. Not sure why it didn't work, but he wasn't happy w/ it at all. Others & you may have a different experience.

Read thru BlueFin's SC thread, it's covered LOTS or crack & damage repair.

And don't forget to check for associated damage. Rib end cracks are also fairly prevalent where there are cracks between rivets on the exterior hull.
 

GA_Boater

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Raining - Good Friday always seems to be a dull and dreary day.

On the 2Xs - 2X4s would work fine for you, you got the 2X6s = OK, 2X8s are overkill. The boat is light, X8s and X6s just raise the boat on the trailer. My opinion.

I think the only people those rods work for are the guys doing the demos on beer cans at the hunting and fishing shows. But one guy, I want to say Bwana Don - it was way, way back, said they worked with Mapp gas, I don't know for sure.
 

Watermann

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2x6's are perfect, you'll only need one row. I'm not sure if your planning on using the whole 10 foot boards under your 15 or 16' little tinny. 2 - 3 feet won't even touch due to the V in the hull. 2 , 2x6 x 6 foot bunks would work fine with a keel roller up front.

Forgot: I don't know anyone who has used those rods on their boat.
 
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BigMikey86

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I've never used those rods, and the only SC guy to use them, as best I can remember, was Jas. Not sure why it didn't work, but he wasn't happy w/ it at all. Others & you may have a different experience.

Read thru BlueFin's SC thread, it's covered LOTS or crack & damage repair.

And don't forget to check for associated damage. Rib end cracks are also fairly prevalent where there are cracks between rivets on the exterior hull.

Any chance you had a link on this resto?..I tried to use the search function to find the member or restoration and no dice. I think I'll order the starter pack or maybe pick up the benzomatic ones and try them on similar gauge aluminum stock..what gauge would these boats be made from?..
 
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