1968-71 Naden N-16 Big Fisherman Restoration

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jigngrub

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You may want to avoid welding rivets on a seam, lots of aluminum boats have a gasket material in the seam and welding will destroy it, I suggest Gluvit or Coat-it on the seams to stop leaks.
 

pckeen

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Hadn't thought of that. I'll avoid the seams when having it welded. I'll be using Gluvit on all the seams.

Finally some progress on the rebuild. Transom blank is gluing up. You can never have too many clamps.

 

pckeen

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Remembered one other question too. The transom in the boat obviously isn't original (the boat was originally a 15" transom, this transom makes it a 20"). Here's a pic of the transom shape as it fits now. Is this fit good, or should I cut it so it fits closer to the edge. On one corner of the aluminum, a split has started, which may be because this transom was slightly fatter than the original. Here are a couple of pics of the split, and the existing transom (it has since been removed). The transom fits fairly well towards the bottom, but from the bottom to the top of the splashwell there is a larger gap.

Oh yes, 43 hours and $400 into it so far.



 
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Watermann

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Hey Peter. if it were me I would do some mods to the original transom set up and make it more like what Starcraft has going. I would increase the transom size to make the ends closer to the side of the boat. Then to strengthen and isolate a possible reason the skin is cracking I would add an angle piece of AL brackets on each side. Here's a shot of the angle brackets in my Chief, the OB's are this way too.

 

pckeen

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Got the boat to the welders today - he's going to do all the welds I've shown him, fix that leaky rivet that I couldn't fix, and is also going to weld in a piece of aluminum to the transom where the original cut away is.

Waterman, how much of a gap is there between the edge of the transom and the sidewells? Looks to me like about a quarter inch or so, but it's hard to see in the photos. I'm going to do what you suggest, but I'm going to have to get the boat back to measure for the new transom. Welder says 2-3 weeks.
 
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Watermann

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Yeah about 1/4" play away from the seam rivet bucktails on each side. It's going to be getting cold again here real soon, hope you have some room inside for the Naden.
 
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pckeen

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Welding is done - I'll pick up the boat tomorrow. 42 hours and $530 into it so far (welding was $180, which with the amount of work he had to do was pretty reasonable).
 

pckeen

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Did a splash test today (just the hull). Definite improvement, but still leaks from one of the rivets that the welder replaced. The leaking seam is fine now - but found two other points of leakage. One was a bolt that holds on the keel at the front, so I'm thinking a simple tightening will solve that. One was a rivet that probably just needs to be replaced or rebucked. As for the rivet that I have fixed twice, and the welder once....I'm thinking Gluvit....
 

GT1000000

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Howdy pc,
Nice to read about the progress on your Naden...
Can't wait to see pics of the repairs and any other forward motion...
Seems like some gluvit might be the answer to that pesky, leaky rivet...or maybe a little schmear of 5200...?
:D
 

pckeen

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or maybe a little schmear of 5200...?

Yeah....that's probably right....but after having spent something like an hour wire-wheeling some old and ugly 5200 in exactly that spot, putting more on will rankle.....there's some JB Weld sitting in my cabinet downstairs.
 

pckeen

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Finally had a few daylight hours without other projects, and the white stuff on the ground isn't thick enough to prevent all work so....transom cut and dry fit, foam cut and fit. The transom required some light persuasion with a hammer to get it in and out, but it seems to be a much better fit than the old one. Over the winter I'll cut the seats, spar varnish the seats and transom, and cover the seats....and then the long wait until spring.





 

64osby

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If it's sitting on snow does that mean it is Splashed?:facepalm::lol:

Is the hammer your mentioned the one with a 3' handle?:eek::D

Looking great.
 

Watermann

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Glad to see you haven't forgotten the old gal and just in time for some winter weather too.
 

pckeen

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Transom finished - all sealing done - just needs to be installed, but it's minus 12c here, so....see you in the Spring. 47 hours and $530 so far....
 
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pckeen

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It's been a year of projects....So after building a new dock platform, repairing a dock, replacing a ceiling in an apartment unit, buying and rebuilding a 14' Lone Star, rebuilding a carburetor in a 60s Chrysler outboard, and fixing various small engines....

Back to the Naden.

Took it back out to the lake to test for leaks, and one of the leaking rivets has mysteriously repaired itself. The other leaking rivet (the one the welder replaced) turned out not to be leaking. I've pressure washed the boat. So next step....

(Just replace the "M" with "GL" and you'll get the idea.


For anyone keeping score....49 hours and $530
Now - do I sand before I Gluvit or afterwards?
 
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GA_Boater

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A few of us have used a 50/50 vinegar wash and a couple of final rinses before the Gluvit, Peter. Heinz makes a cleaning white vinegar that is a little stronger than the normal stuff. Perfect to clean and do a mild etch for helping the Gluvit to stick a wee bit better.


Good to see you back on her. :thumb:
 

pckeen

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Just ordered the moeller flanging tool and flanges from here on iboats....
 

Watermann

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Yeah for me sanding the seams and the 1000's rivets per side isn't an option, use a wire wheel instead, it will scratch the surface well enough if you use a medium or coarse wheel. Then clean well and apply the gluvit. I put the Heinz cleaning vinegar in a spray bottle, soaked, wheeled and washed it all clean afterward.
 

pckeen

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What about self etching primer - what brands did you all use? I'm going to have to order on-line to get something I suspect, unless I want to spray bomb the entire thing. If I do spray bomb (dupli-color self etching spray bombs are the only stuff I can get locally) - how many will I need?
 
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