1968-71 Naden N-16 Big Fisherman Restoration

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pckeen

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Delthane Ultra DXR80 Urethane Hardener - if I've bought the wrong stuff, let me know and I'll return it.

I found a bottle of Japan Dryer for $7 locally, but I recall reading something suggesting that Japan dryers were bad.
 

Woodonglass

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STOP!!! That's NOT the right stuff!! That's hardener for two part urethane paint. You want/need Arcylic Enamel Paint hardener. You can order it online or Look for this stuff...
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Watermann

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Auto parts stores usually carry the catalyst hardener. It's expensive stuff, the brand I've used costs 2 bucks an ounce.:eek:
 

pckeen

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Thanks - I'll return it (with relief at that price). I live in a rural area, and the rules and regulations about paint products is different in Canada and the U.S. I can't get hardener locally at all, and by the time I get it shipped in, I'll have lost the warm weather for painting (also can't get Xylene locally). So my choices are to paint using a Japan Dryer, or to paint without the dryer. What do you think? Can't paint tonight due to a storm coming in, but I will be painting tomorrow or Saturday.
 

Woodonglass

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I would NOT advise using the Dryer with the Paint. Really no reason or advantage. If you can't get the AE Hardener then just Thin with a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Mineral Spirits.
 

pckeen

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Alas no - I suspect that the body shops here have their items shipped in. Now for a little more progress - the paint this time was thinned with the 50 / 50 acetone and paint thinner mix - it seemed to harden faster - not sure why.
 

bonz_d

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Peter, it's come a long way and looking nice. Gives me encouragement that my paint job will turn out OK. Paint stripping is a lot of work for sure. My 1st experience was long ago while working for a marina when we did a 20' wood Hacker Craft.
 

Woodonglass

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Paint will harden/cure faster with the Acetone/MS mix due to the Acetone Flashing off faster. It will still be "GREEN" for a week or so but Touchable after 3-4 hours.;)
 

pckeen

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And done.

Quite a lot done since my last post: painted the interior, installed foam, installed the bow cap and lights, picked up fasteners to replace all the old rusty ones, bought and cut plywood for the seats, support for the bowcap, and coated all the new plywood with spar varnish.

Add $100 for fasteners and plywood for the seats and 18 hours of labor, for a total of $800 plus 86 hours of labor.

Can't believe it took 3 years.

Here's a pic of the foam in with paint inside.



And here's pictures of the finished product, with decals on it. The outside looks as good as it does in the photos. As for the inside, by following the advice here, I succeeded in getting absolutely no runs in the paint, but the Gluvit ran, and shows up as raised patches around rivets - so it looks like a poor prep job. Still, 1000 times better than when I started.









As for the splash, I don't have a trailer for this, and my Starcraft is sitting on it right now, so I'm guessing I'll be waiting until the spring.

Thanks all of you who followed this - this was a real learning experience!
 
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TruckDrivingFool

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Looks like new well done!

Too bad you're gonna make us wait til spring for the spiffy boat gracefully floating pic. :D
 

thomas15

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Peter,

Just read through the entire thread and I really appreciate you taking the time to post all the details. Great job!

I have a 16' Starcraft tin, a 2005 which is in fairly good shape but could use some work. I use this boat on a local lake that is 1000 acres, not big but about 1/2 mile from the home port. Just finishing my second season with it.

When I was a kid, my dad (with a bit of help from my brother and me) built two boats. One a 14' bay skiff, the other a 19' Comet Class sailboat. Neither have survived sorry to say, but they were exceptionally nice. Anyhow, I would like to rehab a boat and like you since I have a useable boat now wouldn't feel the need to rush so as to get on the water. The ultimate would be something 20+ feet but that's a lot of boat for one person. I have debated with myself the following: fiberglass, tin, outboard, I/O with no real winner in my mind.

I like what you said at the very beginning of your project, that the Naden would be a practice run. So, with that in mind I think perhaps a tin in the 14' range might be a good idea to get my feet wet.

Right now I'm taking classes at my local community college and I'm at a point where another degree is getting close. I don't know when/if but I have a lot of the capitol tools needed and I have a garage dig enough to do such a job. Your project is pushing me in the direction of doing this, not sure if I should thank you or not!!!

Good Luck, stay dry.
Tom
 

pckeen

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Impressive, Very nicely done!

Thanks - I still can't believe it took three years, and I haven't dared put a value on the labor costs on this boat. It was a fun project, thanks to all the advice from people in here.

Looks like new well done!

Too bad you're gonna make us wait til spring for the spiffy boat gracefully floating pic. :D

Yeah I know, and I feel a little guilty about it, especially as I have the rebuilt Fastwin ready to go - I'm sorely tempted to make some room for another project prior to then....

Your project is pushing me in the direction of doing this, not sure if I should thank you or not!!!

My thread encouraged someone to rebuild a boat? :eek: You should probably have me arrested.:lol:

On a serious note, you have a full load of tools AND a garage? You are already way ahead of the curve.
Go buy a project - there are plenty of us here who love helping people spend their money.
 
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64osby

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Very nice. :cool:

Now if only the motor would run on two cylinders.:facepalm:
 
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