1962 Merc 450 restoration ..

sphelps

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Gunna try this one more time ..
1DAB8982-BC21-4461-AB2D-BCE7F3871A7B.jpeg1DAB8982-BC21-4461-AB2D-BCE7F3871A7B.jpeg
 

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GA_Boater

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Got the sound and pictures in the first couple of posts, #61 and 62. Is the last one a picture or a video?
 

merc850

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Got it hooked up .. It took a minute to get it to start .. I don’t think the warm up bar was advancing the throttle enough so I disconnected it a gave it a bit more throttle and then it fired up .. But at least I know it runs now ..
I made a vid but I guess it’s to long to post without making it shorter
Seems to me all you need is a new impeller in the waterpump, fuel pump diaphragm and you could be operational. I just noticed that that motor is possibly a manual model that's been converted to electric which explains the lack of motor wiring harness and the rectifier being where it is. The electric model would have a plug on the lower cowl.
IMG_0813.jpg
 

sphelps

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Merc your right . That’s what the guy said . His dad had the starter setup added .. I think the elect choke brackets are a bit modified ..
 

merc850

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If you want to restore it all the way find a parts motor (1960 to 1964) that's seized or whatever and add the good parts, I have a Mark 58 [1958 year] and it uses the same choke parts etc.mark-58-kennedy2.jpg
 

sphelps

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Other than being sideways this is better vid .. Now where do I start from here ? Lol !
 

merc850

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Replace the waterpump impeller and gaskets and install the lower unit (follow these instructions; grease the sides of the driveshaft and shiftshaft splines)
Turn the LU shift shaft by hand counter-clockwise until it
stops, then with Vise Grips tight on the bottom of the shaft turn it a
few more degrees CCW until it clicks into a stop, this
should be neutral - check by turning propshaft --
prop should spin freely.
Put control in N and go ahead and attach LU to driveshaft housing some turning of the flywheel will help the DS splines align.
Do not shift into reverse unless you turn the prop at the same time.

There should be a guide tube that lets the waterpipe go into the housing.
G-LOWER-UNIT.jpg
Then you can test it it in a barrel or the back of a boat.
 

sphelps

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Here is the first look at the impeller
The sleeve that fits into the upper WP housing seems to have worn a groove . Should it be replaced ?
Also to take the drive shaft out you have to take the little screw out of the bottom of the DS right ?
The only need to take the shaft out would be to change the bearings I presume…
I guess it’s time to start ordering parts .. what all should I be ordering ? 7D8D809A-71FA-4D23-A207-1BC96FC5F242.jpeg
 

sphelps

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The impeller seems stuck ..
is there a trick to getting it off the shaft ?
 

merc850

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Replace the cup and all the gaskets; to take out the impeller use 2 screwdrivers 180* apart and pry up. You don't need to undo the screw at the end of the driveshaft but I would remove the rust on the DS; lay it down and use fine sandpaper along the length, keeping it away from the waterpump.
 

sphelps

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I want to put the LU in the blast cabinet for paint prep . I guess I should plug all the holes and seal it up as best as possible ..The whole shift shaft assembly looks kinda scary to me . Is there any reason I should be digging into that ?
 

merc850

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Don't pull out the shaft it goes into a cam that's spring loaded inside and can be difficult to re-install (post Nr.73) - can you post a pic so we can see the condition.? What are you blasting with dry ice would be the best; sand not so good, I would put the water pump housing back on to insure that the blasting medium stays out of that area.
 

sphelps

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Fine coal slag is what I have in the cabinet .. never heard of the dry ice blasting
 

merc850

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Dry-ice blasting is a form of carbon dioxide cleaning, where dry ice, the solid form of carbon dioxide, is accelerated in a pressurized air stream and directed at a surface in order to clean it. It vaporizes leaving no residue like sand but it's expensive to operate.
 
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