Yes you can "hard wire" the switch into the cable that goes into the control box (the best way is to solder the wires to the lugs); if it were my motor and I was going to use it full time I would clean up the motor end with better wiring [so you know what wire goes where] and no spade connectors. Is that rectifier held on with 2 bolts? There should be a ground strap attached to the upper cowl and the block for the choke.
The choke solenoid was grounded to the magneto bracket . You can see it on one of the pics .. I will be replacing wires fuel lines and such for sure . I'm just wanting to hook a hose to it and try and start it . Plus I am learning more about how it all wires together so hopefully I'm less clueless when the time comes to put everything back together .. I want to re-paint it and dis- assemble but don't want to go too far with the tear down ... I would hate to take it all apart and not get things back together properly ..
I dont mind doing the work but you guys are gunna have to talk me through all my dumb questions and help keep my head on straight ... Parts availability may be an issue also ..Hopefully not..
Is this the other end of the control box wiring harness? The M terminals on the switch should be connected to the neg (engine ground) and the side terminal of the mag. The B[attery] terminal is connected to a +12 volt wire, the S term. is connected to the starter solenoid ( the one with the yellow crimp connector) and C connects to the choke solenoid spade connector.
The I terminal is for battery powered ignition systems not used in this case, the large red wire is the +12v feed so you can hook it up to the B terminal. The only things that are going to have +12v to them (when you turn/push the key) are the starter and choke - the magneto makes its own spark.
