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  1. classiccat

    21' Holiday Rebuild

    also, i see that outer chine bending down here so it's good you're thinking about reinforcement. double/triple check those outer rivets for stress cracks...maybe even a leak test.
  2. classiccat

    21' Holiday Rebuild

    Solids if you have access to both sides. Wide flange blind rivets if you have no rivet-head &/or buck-tail clearance issues. I noticed that you have the infamous splashwell cracks. look closely at your kneebrace to see if the tabs are still in 1 piece.
  3. classiccat

    21' Holiday Rebuild

    Welcome to the mob! Dues are paid in full with those great pics! (y) (y)(y)🤣 i'm surprised that you didn't have any corrosion with treated ply in there. I had to perform quite a bit of outer chine reinforcement if you need a reference. It helps to have a bending brake (HF or DYI), then you...
  4. classiccat

    1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

    I did as @SHSU described; order longer rivets and snip them down to size once they're through holes and ready for bucking. The riveter you have shown is for blind rivets only. You'll need an air hammer/riveter & a bucking bar for solid rivets.
  5. classiccat

    1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

    @Moserkr you get a mixed bag of responses but the guys holding the lightning sticks often have the loudest opinions. This OP on that particular spray rail crack is adding supports to keep it from flexing & cracking the aluminum at the weld. The challenge will be resealing the joint, not...
  6. classiccat

    1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

    "Just smear some 5200 on the melted seams...it will be fine" "while you're there, just weld all of the rivet holes closed" 🤣 (not verbatim but that was the line of comments)
  7. classiccat

    1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

    I used a mix of 0.063” and 0.090” al sheet in both 6061 and 5052. if I recall, 5052 was used for forming patches (more malleable after annealing) and 6061 for my braces (more rigid) it was several years ago so hard to remember what I paid. If I recall a 4x8’ sheet ran around $100 from a sheet...
  8. classiccat

    1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

    unrelated, i think it's funny that you chose a green that you just spent 2 weeks stripping from your boat. 🤣 i would've deleted it from the color palette forever! I fabricated all of my brackets & braces using a 30" HF bending brake. Paid for itself several times over! It’s very intuitive...
  9. classiccat

    1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

    Bunks: I put mine right at the outer chine for support since my hull was showing advanced fatigue there. Braces: It's a little hard to visualize your idea there but I'll share mine since my SS18's outer chine was roasted and used multiple reinforcement methods. The easiest to implement with...
  10. classiccat

    1966 Starcraft Holiday Interior Work

    if you're dead set on the pour-in, you can lay some XPS down between the ribs; the The way I put down the solid foam (as most do), I laid pieces flat (parallel with the hull skin) between the ribs; the rivet-tabs & rivets essentially serve as spacers and allow for drainage. My deck is glassed...
  11. classiccat

    1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

    Ha! it's funny how many builds start as a "refresh". Time for a tweak to the old thread title! Nice progress getting down to clean aluminum; and don't worry...the nightmares of stripper fumes and chemical burns go away after a few months. 😁 bunks are definitely the way to go for our old...
  12. classiccat

    1966 Starcraft Holiday Interior Work

    I believe the trepidation comes from seeing other members experience the fun of literally digging out soaked pour-in foam only to be rewarded with corroded aluminum underneath. The modern formulations are reported to be better for water retention, thermal stability, etc. If you keep the paths...
  13. classiccat

    1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

    I can imagine your satisfaction watching that paint literally melt away. Nice way to start 2021! (y) I'm surprised that the coat-it is holding its ground. My 18SS was coated with an epoxy over bare aluminum and it bubbled up easier than paint (it still leaked like a sieve due to the...
  14. classiccat

    1985 StarCraft Islander 221v fixer upper.

    I guess alot of the design/thickness depends on what your plan is. You don't want the patch interfering with outboard mounting, kneebrace supports, splashwell, etc. Several members have used large buttered with 5200 and scabbed almost the entire transom. I would probably have 2 pieces...one...
  15. classiccat

    1985 StarCraft Islander 221v fixer upper.

    grab rail for walking on the gunnels...since most humans who have reached puberty can't fit through the bow hatch 🤣
  16. classiccat

    1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

    Stripping paint is a right of Starmada passage! Citristrip is on this earth to only extend the pain of paint stripping. I used both Zip Strip and Jasco with success...and I bet it will remove that old epoxy bandaid as well. What really took it to the next level was making sure the paint was...
  17. classiccat

    1985 StarCraft Islander 221v fixer upper.

    Just a large drill bit...bigger the bit, wider the chamfer. Thread Example
  18. classiccat

    1985 StarCraft Islander 221v fixer upper.

    the tricky part of riveting over the patch is that you'll have rivet bucktails contending with the transom wood...at least the upper-half of the keyhole. the tricky part of welding is the proximity of the bottom edge of the keyhole to the rivet seam (welding often melts the sealant in that...
  19. classiccat

    1985 StarCraft Islander 221v fixer upper.

    Welcome! Big v5 islander! The WLOD transom opening gives a whole new meaning to hydroponics 😁 .
  20. classiccat

    Starcraft Hull design changes

    The only thing I can think of is the keel weep/drain hole. There's a belief that the forward hole placement results in a pressurized keel piece when underway...forcing water into the keel rivets. It may have been removed in later models (or relocated to an aft position)?
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