1999 Bayliner Project

bear_69cuda

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Oct 10, 2008
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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

So what if some carpet adhesive residual cannot be 100% removed. Will a new coat of poly bond properly to the old glass and gel coat? I think while grinding, some of the adhesive must be mixed together with the old glass and gel coat... I do plan to use Acetone for the final clean/prep before application of first poly coat.
 

Mark42

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Oct 8, 2003
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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

The poly won't stick to the residual glue. A good washing down with acetone will go a long way to cleaning the deck and getting it ready for the coat of poly/glass.

Nice job sanding. Looks like you have a nice solid, dry Bayliner.
 

bear_69cuda

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Oct 10, 2008
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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Morning Gang,

I took yesterday off from stripping, grinding, and sanding... I figure I put around 35 hours into the boat in 4 days. I itch like crazy! I purchased full tyvek suits to keep glass off as best I can. The deck surface still had adhesive so I nuked it with MEK, DCM, and Acetone. I cleaned about 6-8 inches up both sides of the hull. This will allow me to apply Durabak surface on the deck and partially up the sides. I'll be laying down carpet on the both hull sides for ease, nice finished look, and sound deadening. I spoke with Durabak and they said not to worry about getting 100% of the adhesive off.. Their product bonds to itself, and will encapsulate anything on the substrate it cant adhere to. I had the person who painted my Barracuda stop to check out my project. He gave me some advice on glassing. My plan is to only glass the seams and corners the opened up while grinding. Purchased one gal of resin, and 16 square feet of cloth. I'll also poly over any exposed wood areas, and will use the mastic filler for the voids and crevices not filled by resin. ( I used a grinder to remove any soft wood from the knots in my deck, and will poly/mastic/sand to level off ) I hope to finish prep for Durabak this weekend. I should be receiving color sample chips from Durabak soon. I hope to get close to the gel coat color of my hull... I have huge respect for anyone who restores boats... lots of hard work just on my small project! I still fantasize about a 4.3 in the boat. I found a salvaged 2005 Bayliner crushed by a tree, 4.3 and out-drive look new... I'm tempted to go for it. $1600, but reserve isn't met... My boats hull looks to be set-up for a V6 or V8. engine mounting rails in place... But may need to remove the front mount for the 3.0 for clearance. I plan on running the 3.0 this summer for sure... Only had the boat out one time last fall! Re-power would most likely eat up time I could be on the water!

I'll post some new pics soon...

Peace out! Have a great day!!!!
 

bear_69cuda

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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Gang,

Today I finished prep sanding and grinding! 6 hours total... Tried to remove as much dust possible from boat and garage. Next a bath in acetone for all the stripped areas, and on to glass and fill stage.

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I received Durabak samples today. It's between white and light grey for deck color. In the following attached pics, I'm matching the Durabak up with the carpet being used on the inner side walls of the boat against stock gel coat color color. I can't decide, but am leaning to the grey. The white Durabak is few shaded lighter than my boats stock gel coat. Sure looks like a great product. Can't wait to paint!!!! The carpet pic with the Alpine sub, is the same color being used for the snap-in deck carpet, and my fishing deck. ( Snap-in carpet color and the carpet going on the side walls of the hull are slightly different colors )
 
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bear_69cuda

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Oct 10, 2008
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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Durabak, and carpet color pics.

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jasonsnova

Cadet
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
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21
Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

COOL PROJECT! i have a 92 bayline that has the exact same hull that i am planning on redoing a bit, i mostly use it fish so i'm thinking of totally taking out the back to back seats for some swivel captains chairs to make more room and redesighn of the engine cover also to make more room ....lost of wasted space on the bayliners...
i'll be keeping a close eye on yours for ideas!
 

bear_69cuda

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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Hey Gang,

This is super cool! This lady at work is our companies master welder... She rules big time! So I asked her if she could help me design a trolling motor mount for my new Motorguide w55 wireless. She said she could, but her husband should get involved because he can make it look good.. He came to check out the boat, had me hold the motor in position a few times, wrote a few measurements on scrap paper, and a few day's later she hand me this mock-up. It's perfect! Exactly what was in my mind... Hes gonna make it in 10ga stainless. It will mount on rubber bushings, with stainless bolts... This dude only looked one time.... I'm blown away! This would have crushed my brain for months! :D

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I'll be doing more glassing this weekend!

Also did some research on installing a 4.3... It looks possible, but will require me to fab/tie-in fiberglassed rails to the current the stringers to mount the 4.3. The stringers are to far apart currently. The engine box will also need to be modified. I wanted to have a bench/sun deck style seating/engine box anyway... But I'll continue to research exact details regarding structural safety, and realistic practicality... But I think it can be done...
 
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bear_69cuda

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Oct 10, 2008
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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Gang,

Update on dreams of re-power.

Found a Marina in upper Wisconsin, (via two conversations from Craigs list) and the old school owner Mel Riggs has me covered... He like most of you folks, basically said I'm nuts to hook a Donner 4.3 to my outdrive. By the time all the headache was finished, he said I'd have more blood, sweat and cash in it, than if I purchased a new complete fully dressed engine and outdrive. He can get me the entire package for $5700. The other great news is, he said if my current engine/drive combo is as in good condition that I say, he'll have no problem hooking me up with someone in need. Every spring folks forget to winterize, and are seeking Mercruiser 3.0 Alpha 1 drive set-ups. He said he could get between $3000-3500 for my complete drive. Mel has done many re-powers exactly like mine, and will help me with advice, along with any schematics he has saved through the years.. The Internet is incredible!!!! He also talked something about fabbed metal adapter brackets that bolt into my stringers for this swap. ( for the front mounts ) Anyone heard of this?

My re-power will need to wait for at least a year... My wife would poop a brick if I told her I was getting a new engine for the boat we only had out one time since purchased! :D

I'll have a fiberglass update and progress pics tonight. I'm starting to get into a groove glasssing! Thanks for the great advice!

I wanted to include the link to my thread about glassing advice, I received from iboats, to keep this thread completed. I hope that's okay?

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=294810
 

bear_69cuda

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Oct 10, 2008
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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Gang,

Bit of an update..

I have the rear deck from the stern to the ski locker patched and glassed... I'm happy with the results so far...

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I don't think I'll spend much time on the seat bases, and the engine compartment, due to either 4.3 re-power, bench seat/sun deck construction, and removing back to back for dual captain seats. There is always the possibility I may sell, and buy a boat set up this way... Well see... I just want to enjoy the boat this summer, without major destruction... The engine compartment will be covered in carpet to match the sides of the hull, bow fishing deck, and stern seat boxes. So no need to make pretty... I received the Durabak coating ( 3 gal ) and hope to finish glassing, grinding, patching, and painting in the next two weeks... Then on to wiring...
 
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Fingernip

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Dec 3, 2007
Messages
96
Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

I really like what you are doing! I may have to copy you a bit lol.
 

bear_69cuda

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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Gang,

Well for the most part I'm finished glassing! I know need to do some grinding, and sanding to smooth out seams where glass overlaps. Then rough up and seal with final coat of resin. Then rough up again, a nice acetone bath, and on to the fun part! Painting Durabak! Thanks all for the advice and help with all my fiberglassing issues. I'm no expert, but feel I'll be prepared for the next time! Maybe a vintage boat resto? Here are some pics. BTW, I swear there must be 1/4" of dust from sanding in my garage... The stuff is EVERYWHERE!!!! I need to pull the boat out, hose it down, and put my leave blower to work! What a mess.....

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Not bad huh?
 
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bear_69cuda

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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Howdy,

I'm cashed................

I think in the last 5 days, I've put over 60+ hours in prep, grinding, sanding, scuffing, cleaning, along with multiple full acetone xylene baths!

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And finally I managed to put a first coat down!

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I can say that all the prep made a huge difference... Durabak makes me look good... Easy to work with. I can tell with two more coats my deck is gonna be killer! Still transparent in some spots... Vendor says for first coat to go on thin... Next two are the coverage coats... I can hardly see any of my fiberglass seems!

Coat two tomorrow after work,
 
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bear_69cuda

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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Gang,

Just finished coat two of Durabak. It keeps looking better! Final coat to be put down tomorrow... Then 4-6 days to cure... I can finally start working on smart tabs install, electrical systems, and returning the interior. I like the deck so much I may not even add snap-in carpet? I'll see how the rubberized texture feels on the feet...

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I'm so happy with the results of the Durabak, and the extra effort I put into prep...
 
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wewefirex2x

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 19, 2007
Messages
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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

That looks incredible. Was the product hard to put down?
 

Mark42

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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

I am impressed, not just on how the durabak looks, but how much effort you put in on sanding and prep. That is really looking like a professional job.

Can hardly wait to see the final coat results. How thick do you think it will be when done and dry?
 

bear_69cuda

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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Thanks for the kind words dudes!

The first coat is an adhesion coat, just bonding to the substrate. Then the magic happens on the second coat. The only issues I came across are the rubber starts to mud up in corners, and if you don't clean drips or spills pronto with xylene, it's gonna take a grinder to remove... The stuff is never coming off. Durabak provided me with roller covers (strange foam type) I used nice brushes to cut into seams, edges, and corners, then the roller to fill large areas. All in all Durabak is a great alternative to gel-coat, paint or vinyl.

I believe each coat will be ~ 1/32 - 1/16" thick depending on rubberized texture particles. So it hides all my bad body work! :D
 

bear_69cuda

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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Evening,

I'm finished painting final coat of Durabak on deck.

Very happy with everything! This process was very educational... Thanks again for all the advice!

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Gonna take a few days to chillax, let the deck cure, get the carpet for interior hull sides, and dog-house, and read up on wiring systems...

Hopefully get carpet on hull Saturday or Sunday...

That was a lot of work bruthas!
 
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bear_69cuda

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Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Hi Gang,

I spent most of the weekend cleaning out the garage from all the fiberglassing debris...

FUN!

Last Night I hit the engine and bilge with simple green degreaser, this morning I took the hose and blasted out the entire boat... Every crack and crevice is now dust, dirt and debris FREE!

On to wiring project!

Here are some pics of how the engine turned out...

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lowkee

Lieutenant Commander
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Dec 13, 2008
Messages
1,890
Re: 1999 Bayliner Project

Amazing job! I'm redoing the deck and interior of my '90 bayliner now. Just getting the deck removed so far. I still haven't decided what route to take for the new deck.

How does the Durabak feel on your bare feet? Do you think it would begin to hurt after a day of walking around on it?
 
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