Walking foot sewing machine -- Reliant Barracuda

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bruceb58

bruceb58

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wellcraft-classic210 said:
Can anyone offer advice or rule of thumb's on

--When to back stitch ( or when not too )
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At the beginning and the end of a run to lock the stitch. If you don't back stitch, the thread can pull out. The only time you can maybe get away with it is when you will then be stitching another run seam perpendicular to that seam as that seam will lock the stitch of the first.
 
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wellcraft-classic210

wellcraft-classic210

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Yes -- I tend to Always lock stitch as it seem to add integrity -- its not very much added effort.

I also sewed most of the seams in my vinyl 2x -- Not sure if that was overkill or good prevention.

It seems doing the same on an enclosure cover would not hurt either-- except in area where the stitches might tend to leak -- such a vinyl windows etc.
 
kcassells

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kcassells said:
Well Wog now I want a sewing machine and a router! Good info from all.
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Well Thanks to the Wog... I mean he helped me search, recommend and even contacted local ebay sales for a sewing machine. He sourced one out for me only 6 miles away and here you are. Addicted and playing with the new machine. New learning curve, patience and fun! Thanks again Mike! :yo: Cost for Singer.$35.00, materials to repair/clean...$25.00. Labor...who cares, not much. I was so amazed at the related parts because they are so inexpensive.
Singer 15-91. I totally rewired, cleaned, operates great, just need to play around more for the learning curve. Working on the learnng with things like curtains, pillows and then into the interior of the cuddy for cushions.
 
Woodonglass

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bruceb58 said:
Good machine for those tasks. No going to cut it for vinyl or canvas work.

http://vssmb.blogspot.com/2012/04/difference-between-domestic-industrial.html
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Absolutely do not want to start an argument but from my 3 years of experience owning and using a Singer 15-91, I'll have to disagree with the article and it not being a suitable machine for the DIY upholsterer. I have yet to find anything it won't sew. It goes thru 6 layers of vinyl with ease, I'd guesstimate that I've run 5,000 yds of thread thru her and she;s still going strong. It also did a great job on Sunbrella and Cordura fabrics. 6 layers on them too. NO helping hand needed to feed it. I use v92 Thread with #19 leather needles. This is a Potted Motor All Steel Gear driven Machine. The motor and materials used to make these machines is far superior to the Homestyle machines made today. VERY heavy duty and will sew thru anything you can stick under the foot. I've done a LOT of Seats with mine and had NO issues with it none!!! If you were going to be doing upholstery everyday and running the machine constantly (Like the article you posted uses for it's comparison and IMHO is not a fair comparison in this case)then yeah the Homestyle machines would prolly eventually fail. But..for the DIY'r doing his one time upholstery project or even 4-5 of them, this machine WILL handle it with ease. I've done it and I know a couple of others that have as well. I bought a walking foot machine when I decided to take on more jobs and it DOES the job so much easier and faster but I paid the price too. For the money you pay($50 compared to $300 for the cheapest walking foot up to $1,500) and the work you want to do the 15-91 is one of the best machines out there to get the job done for the DIY'r.

I seldom if ever double stitch a seam especially when using v92. I use a zig zag on the edge of piece where I want to fold the outer edge over approx. 1/2" and then sew it down to hide the rough edge.. Kinda like making a Hem I think it's called. Using the zig zag helps flatten it since it covers a wider area.

I always backstitch at the start and end of a seam. If you don't the seam is very easy to unravel.
 
bruceb58

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Since I have never used a 15-91 I can't say how they work so I only go by what others say and that is a walking foot is necessary/desirable to sew multiple layers of canvas.

A 15-91 is not a walking foot machine.

The test would be to fold a piece of Sunbrella until you get 6 layers, put the machine at the longest stitch and see what the stitch length looks like and compare when you only do one layer and see if the width is the same.

If it works, then you are good. The problem is really going to be when you have a ton of fabric rolled up under the arm when doing a large cover and the fabric is fighting you feeding into the foot. If you aren't going to be doing large pieces, you won't have that problem.
 
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kcassells

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bruceb58

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kcassells said:
Like WOG said, does the job with ease.
Already using it on vinyl, sunbrella and some double layered belt leather. You should grab one for $35.00 bucks and try it instead of reading about it. You'll be surprised at it's capabilities. JMHO. Large pcs. just flow under the foot with rase.
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That's OK :) already own a real commercial sewing machine...Consew 226R!

See how the singer goes through two sets of double fold binding(8 layers) 2 sets of seams(6 layers) and some webbing.
IMG_20140201_160724.jpg
See how the stitch looks short on the binding? That's what happens even with a walking foot machine.

Been doing this for over 20 years off and on and my mom used to make covers for a business.
 
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wellcraft-classic210

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This raises a good point on justifying tools.

It seems most of the higher end industrial machines are selling at over $1000 with table & motors // $2000 for something new

For the average boat owner who is not trying to start a business the cost and space requirements of an industrial machine can make that sort of purchase very hard to justify.

That's exactly why we are discussing the merits of these lower cost machines.

I also started out with a $25.00 used all metal home sewing machine that was a Japanese clone of a singer s-15. It was a great value and I was able to make a few covers and refinish some vinyl seats and cuddy cushions in my ist boat while learning a lot in the process.

The older used machines do seem like an excellent place for new sewers to start as they do offer great value in place of maximum efficiency --

When I was faced with doing all the vinyl & some cover work on a 26 foot cruiser -- efficiency became more of an issue. After discussing layout vs sewing time with an office mate who has owned and used a Sailrite ls1 for many years we found that he was spending more time on layout than sewing // And I was spending more time on sewing than layout.

That was enough to justify a $325 Rex607 for me but not a a $2000 Juki which is touted as a great machine. I find the 607z is faster and more enjoyable to use than my old machine // I am sure if i were to step up to a better machine the same would be true again.



So if anyone wants to donate a higher end industrial machines for evaulation to me --"All in the name of science :eek:" -- let me know -- Otherwise its just Sew on and Sew on and Sew what.:lol:
 
bruceb58

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I bought my Consew 226R for $300 on eBay. I also spent another $100 on a servo motor which just makes it easier to use.

There is a sewing machine mechanic I have taken mine too to get retimed. He will work on machines like mine and high end home machines like Bernina. He will not touch any of the Chinese machines because he says it isn't worth it. That includes the Sailrite.

I have paid for my machine many times over and when it comes time to sell, it will fetch way more than I paid for it.

I do love tools and pretty much always worth paying more in the beginning for something than less for something you will need to replace later.

Just the tools that go with sewing are expensive.
Engel hot knife to cut Sunbrella is over $200
http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/U...ter/index.html

And this is just one example.
 
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kcassells

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hey guys,
Just getting into it and I am very impressed with what the machine can do.I also spent a total of $60.00 and doing the job just fine. When I get spectacular I'll probably still use this same machine.
 
Woodonglass

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The largest piece I've done on my 15-91 Was my son's 8ft long Awning for his VW Bus. I used the15-91 instead of my REX 11-155r walking foot cuz it was down at the time while I was getting the speed reducer made and fitted for it. I had NO issues with it feeding the 8ft length of Cordura fabric doing semi flat felled seams (3 layers). I also rolled the edges which means I was sewing thru 3 layers of the 1000D fabric and again it yielded a Perfect stitch and fed thru the machine with ease. Again in a All Day All Week All month All year scenario, I would FOR SURE recommend a commercial Walking foot as a MUST Have. But...For the Every Now and then Upholstery job, this machine WILL get the job done


This video shows the 15-91 sewing thru 3 layers of belt leather. As The comparison link stated and I agree with. I wouldn't want to put a 15-91 thru this kind of sewing on an All Day Everyday torture test, but...for the occasional user, it WILL get the job done.



This video shows the 15-91 going thru 12 Layers of Denim with ease.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdK6Gxajo5g

I'll get my machine out after while and get some of the Cordura scraps, and do a video of it sewing various layers of the fabric so you can see what she will do and how the stitches look on both sides.
 
Woodonglass

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6 SPI That's another reason for getting a Good WF machine. As you Know 8-10 is preferred for upholstery. I believe however that the Small REX and Sailrite WF machines only do 6 SPI as well. I am in Total agreement with you That a WF machine IS the Best machine to do upholstery. Once I got mine it was Soooo easy to see that. But I continue to believe that the 15-91 will allow the DIY'r to do really good upholstery work on a tight budget. I know it's worked for me really well. I started with a Plastic Kenmore and it's not even in the same league as the Singer.
 
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bruceb58

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Isn't it better to have 6 vs 8-10 since the stitch length is longer(especially with vinyl)? Less holes is better since the seam is less likely to rip. Also, less holes for water to get in when you are making a cover.

You are making me a believer on the 15-91.
 
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wellcraft-classic210

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OK lets revisit the forum goals -- Are we here to (1) offer constructive advice and learn -- Or (2) compete with each other and criticize anything that's not exactly the way some of us have done it.

Given that I started this post I am now asking anyone who posts on it to try & be in group 1.
 
Woodonglass

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bruceb58 said:
Isn't it better to have 6 vs 8-10 since the stitch length is longer(especially with vinyl)? Less holes is better since the seam is less likely to rip. Also, less holes for water to get in when you are making a cover.

You are making me a believer on the 15-91.
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Well I screwed up. It's not spi but rather length of stitch. On most home machines setting it on 6 will yield the LONGEST stitch and thus fewer holes in the seam. Same on my REX WF It goes up to 11 which means the stitch is almost twice as long as on a home machine.
 
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