Total Rebuild Help

[jbcurt00]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

I wouldn't want to comment w/out seeing what your talking about. If you take some pix, you might even throw some lines/arrows on it to show the variation your talking about..

Know what I mean

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

I will try and post a pic tomorrow. Just didn't think it would come out too well but will give it a shot. Thanks for checking in again!

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Just poppin by to wish you and yours a...

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

From the Admiral & I to you & yours:

May you have a great weekend & enjoy the company of friends & family....

John

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

I'm posting this pic and hope it shows what I am trying to describe. The boat seems to be sagging a bit on the right side as you look down the bow towards the stern. You can see the "white" of the transom skin. Was hoping I could just jack it up a bit in the front where it appears to be sagging and add a brace there. Any thoughts are appreciated!

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!

Shane

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

I couldn't say for sure, but if you can get the cap back on, do & then adjust your bracing to better support the 3 keels & the hull sides.

The boat may have sagged slightly at the outer keel (it's a tri-hull right? Or similar) or the hull sides may have spread some causing it to be low.....

Getting the cap back on now, and trying to brace it better will help make sure the cap will go back on easily after you redo the stringers & tab the deck to the hull sides. If it's askew or sagged while you are doing the interior fiberglass work, it may be a real challenge to get the cap back on later...

May have to cap & un-cap a few times to make sure the hulls not still moving after the brace adjustments...

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

+1 what JC said, and I'll add that most fiberglass boats, while usually built in a mold, are not always symmetrical...

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Cap back on and rebrace it is. Don't want problems down the road. Guess it's better to be sure now rather than sorry later. Thanks for the suggestions. Now that I think about it, the way that it's braced the sides probably spread a bit towards the bow. Thanks for checking in guys!

Off to work on Black Friday. UUgghhh!

Shane

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Cap is back on. It actually went on pretty easily. I guess there wasn't as much sag as there appeared to be. I am still going to add some more bracing with the cap on just to be on the safe side. The center window when closed overlaps the metal frame by about an inch or so. I'm guessing that is due to the fact that there is no 1/2 inch plywood under the bow portion of the deck and it is sagging down a little bit. Any thoughts?

Hope everyone had a great holiday weekend!

Shane

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

If possible add a piece of lumber with either screws or clamps between the consoles, at the correct position, to allow the window to close properly...

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

If the window doesn't close now, you want to brace across the hull w/ a 2X4, helps prevent cracking @the consoles from the stress of sagging. If it will be unsupported by deck ply for a while, I'd also add temp bracing down to the hull.

If you're shoring up the hull braces & pulling the cap again, 2X4 across the consoles & support the cap as best you can until you're ready to put it back on.

Bending & flexing the cap as you handle it removed from the hull makes more work, so a few screw holes thru it, screwing it to the cross brace is much less work. Just be sure to use fender washers & or scrap ply to prevent cracks as you screw thru the console.

If it wasn't as bad as you thought, do you think it is still sagged somewhat?

Or as GT said in an earlier post, the hull may not be as symmetrical as you'd think it should be. Now w/ the cap on it's harder to tell, but you want to try & do the best you can to prevent glassing it in misshapen.


EDIT: Or put another way, what GT said ^^^

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Thanks guys!

Will definitely add some bracing to the console. The cap will be coming back off again at some point for installing and glassing the transom. I can get to the 2 outside stringers with the cap on, but the center stringer runs underneath the fiberglass floor portion of the bow seating area.

The whole sagging thing just kind of has me perplexed. There may be a little sag there. Add that to the possibility that it was a little out of whack when it came out of the mold originally and that may be why it seems about 2 inches off when the cap is removed. Didn't really have to mess with much for the cap to slide right back into place. Just going to shore it up real good and do the best I can. Then pop the cap off again.

Is there a way that I can tell definitively if there is sagging going on? Or is it pretty much if the cap fits back on just like the way it came off I should be good....

Appreciate it again guys!

Shane

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Off tomorrow!

I hope to add more bracing to the hull and pick up some plywood for the transom. Hopefully I will get it cut, fit up, and glued together - as long as the weather holds out. Keeping my fingers crossed on that one.

Hope everyone is well!

Shane

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

with the split window models this is a fairly common occurence. Best way I know to remedy this is to block up the walk thru section until the Frames align properly and then glass it in. Make sure the deck is level too. If the deck is not in yet you might raise the center stinger a bit to get it to align.

Hope this helps.

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Thanks for the input Woodonglass!

Going to block it up tomorrow as I add more bracing.

Shane

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Ok....so not much going on with the boat as of late. Starter went out again on the truck. Third time in a year. Found out that oil was leaking from the valve cover gasket on the passenger side and running down to the starter. Over time, it would work it's way inside and get on the brushes etc. eventually shorting it out. Go figure! So, replaced valve cover gaskets and put on another new starter. Hope that does the trick. Then, as luck would have it I broke a tooth. Had to go get that fixed. Seems like my money and time is going everywhere else but towards the boat. Will get back to things as soon as I possibly can though.

Hope all is well.

Shane

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Yep, that video about sums things up! Another nice day today, but the boss made me put up Christmas lights and decorations. I enjoy doing that though so no big deal. Hopefully I will get back to the boat soon. Lowe's finally got the gallon size Titebond III back in so will be heading over there in a few to pick some up. May go ahead and glue transom pieces together tonight if I can sneak it in the living room without getting caught. :lol:

Hope everyone is doing well and projects running smoothly.

Shane

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Well, It's been a while.... I have had my supplies (minus the resin) sitting around for quite some time. Weather (cold and a ton of rain) and my boat "shelter" just haven't cooperated much, so I have been reluctant to do anything on the boat the past couple months. But, I lost my patience. Just got 10 gallons of resin and I am ready to get back at it. With the exception of today which was 39 degrees, temperatures are getting into the mid to upper fifties each day. So, it's time. Just need to pop the top cap back off and prepare for transom install. Hopefully my first attempts at glassing are in the very near future. Hope everyone is well! Will check back in when I begin. I'm hoping for either Thursday or Saturday. Just depends on the weather again.

Shane

 

[SSOWDERS]

Re: Total Rebuild Help

Ok. I'm back again!
I have cut out the plywood for the new transom. It has been glued together with TiteBond III and screwed together to cure. I put weight on top of it to try and keep it from warping at all while it dried. Let it sit for 24 hours and brought it inside. That's where I am to date.

Now for the questions to the experts:
1. The transom did warp about 1/2 inch despite my efforts to keep it from doing so. Is this ok or will it cause problems?

2. I plan on removing the screws and filling the holes with PB before covering in CSM. Is this the right course of action?

3. It will be about 67 degrees tomorrow. How long will I need to let the first layer of CSM I apply on the transom sit before I can flip it over and do the other side?

4. After installing the transom, how long should I wait between layups when glassing it to the hull with CSM tabs and full sheets of 1708?

Sorry for so many questions, just ready to get started on this once again. Hope everyone is doing well and thanks for the help in advance!