The stRingers are out!

OhioLowell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
189
Re: The stRingers are out!

Thanks for the kind words and help!

I hope to be able to steal away a little time this weekend and finish grinding the stringers and the transom spots. I'm just about to the point of putting stuff back into the boat. Only problem is that the weather is still cool. I spoke with my epoxy manfacturer today and they don't recommed working with the stuff under 65 degrees.:'(

I'll drag the new stringers and transom into the basement to glass them together but I'll have to wait for a little warmer weather before they go into the boat. I had thought about starting the bench seats but am weary of doing that until I have the hull stiffened back up. I have a buddy with a heated garage but I don't think the boat and trailer will fit into it! DANG IT! I may have him measure it though. LOL He's chomping at the bit just as I am, as he's my best fishing buddy.

Lowell
 

OhioLowell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
189
Re: The stRingers are out!

OH yeah I almost forgot. What is the best filler for the work I'm doing? Wood flour or mirco balloons?

Thanks
Lowell
 

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Apr 27, 2005
Messages
810
Re: The stRingers are out!

Ohio,

looks great, you are making headway now!

As for the ribs, CUT THEM OUT, as you have indicated in the pic with the green lines. That is fine. Because you are putting the new stringers on edge, there is no reason to ever have to glass in those rib pieces ever again. Also, if a whole rib is loose, then remove the whole rib. You WILL be glassing the floor to the sides, so no problem with questionable strength in the structure of the hull.

The "best" filler...I would have to say, is Marine-tex!After that, just make sure that whatever you are using is 100% water-proof, and CAN be used under the waterline. Some pre-mixed fillers are NOT to be used under the waterline...but if you are heading in the wood flour or microballons...I would go with microballoons if Marine-Tex was out of the question....LOL!

As for the kevlar tape...I have never used it, but hopefully someone can help you with that. I would asssume it would be awesome to have on the keel, if you can glass it in just like regular fiberglass cloth/mat.

Have you given any thought to what you will do about paint? Have you cut-out the transom pieces yet? You can laminate those in your basement if you like and then epoxy the whole thing to the boat when it gets warm.

I have also read articles on here that people have glassed in temperatures as low as 55 degrees. So if you can find the right mixture, you may be able to work in the cooler weather still...Good Luck,

Patrick
 

OhioLowell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
189
Re: The stRingers are out!

Thanks all. Well the ribs are out and the hull is ready for some new wood. I finished grinding the stringer beds today and now we're getting somewhere. Boy the hull is really floppy with out thise ribs connected. I'm going to have a friend of mine measure his garage this weeked to see if boat and trailer will fit in it.

Either tommorrow or next week I plan on making a carboard pattern for the transom and making sure I can get cardboard to fit before I cut it out of 3/4" ply. I'll order my epoxy Monday. I didn't have time earlier this week, should be here by Thursday.

I have a few more questions,
Is fiberglass resin flamable? Just want to know if the blast heater is out or not.

Can I just use penetrating epoxy on teh stringers before they go into the boat or do they need to be completely covered in glass too?

Here is another pic of the the work on teh hull. Seee how nice and white the floor looks once you grind it for hours on end?

hullready.jpg


As for the paint. the paint below deck and floor on the interior of thehull I'm goin to leave well enough alone. All of the areas where I have bared the glass I'll hit with resin and then with rustoleium for good measure. Once I roll over the hull to repair the keel I'll probably pain the exterior then.. The paint on the exterior other than being hidious is actually standing up pretty well and not flaking or peeling. I'll probably rough it up then paint the exterior with a good oil based enamel. Probably a shade of grey. The interior that is above the floor and such will probably be done the same color as the exterior and the floors will probably be done with Rhino liner.

Thanks
Lowell
 

Nova II 260

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
681
Re: The stRingers are out!

Lowell I'm in outside of Enon, east of Wright Patterson AFB.
Keep up the good work! Wish I had your stamina! Today's weather really got me P.O'd ...leaving for Lake Placid Florida on tuesday!! Not dragging the boat down but, buying a shed with a cot and shower. Pulling the Nova down later this month.
I 'm never again sitting home waiting on spring.::(
 

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
810
Re: The stRingers are out!

Ohio,

The chemicals found in fiberglass resin (what you mix to get it to harden) methyl-ethyl keytone are the most flammable liquid on earth. So I would not put anything that could set it off and cause your friends house to be melted into ashes....LOL! I would say that the blast heater is OUT! LOL!

Many people have coated the stringers in epoxy resin, let to harden, then have the edge (the one going on the bottom) roughened up and then epoxied to the hull. Then they use a 4-6 inch tape and glass up the base of the stringer to get a good solid bond between the two (stringer and hull). Make sure you make that fillet along the bottom of the stringer, before you glass it up because you can't put glass tape on there without a fillet (it will be a way more stronger joint).

Again, before you lay your flooring on top of the stringers, roughen up the top of the stringer (where the floor will make contact) and then lay some resin saoked matt on top so when you put your flooring on top of the stringer, it seals the joint between the two (stringer and floor).

Very nice looking job so far, After you are done, you can have something that you can be proud of. To top if off, it will be something that you can use worry free, because you did it RIGHT the first time. That insurance sitting on your mind when you are in the middle of the lake, will make you relax that much more and enjoy your hard, hard work...LOL! Looks great!d:)
 

OhioLowell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
189
Re: The stRingers are out!

I just had another thought while pondering the new transom. There is a brass pipe through the existing FG transom that was the old bilge drain. This pipe is flared on each end and is very "professional" looking.

Should I notch my new transom to accomidate the existing pipe or whould I drill in my own drain? I was thinking if I were to notch the new transom prior to installing it over the pipe then I would be able to saturate the notch with epoxy before the transom goes in. I would think this would have to be a better way to seal the transom than drilling a new hole through the transom once it's in place.

The notch will be very low on the new transom so it will be structurally sound.

SO what do you guys think?

Lowell
 

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
810
Re: The stRingers are out!

Ohio,

I would just use the grinder and remove the brass drain. You can find those things for dirt cheap anywhere, they are easy to replace. Going through all that work for a little easily replaced brass fitting is a waste. It also may affect the stability of the transom if you start to "fill" too much with resin.

I would just buy a hole saw which is the right diameter for your new brass drain tube. Do you have a princess auto down there? Buy a pipe flaring tool and you'll much happier when you do it. Remember, if you are going through all this trouble, do it right the FIRST time, then forget about it.

Also remember to drill another drain hole and install a brass drain in the bilge box that you are going to have....TRUST ME, it is so much easier to drain the hull. My boat, does NOT have that feature and I have soooo much work to so on mine, that it is not even funny...LOL! If you need help with that I can draw you a picture of it....good Luck, and it is coming together now!

Patrick
 

OhioLowell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
189
Re: The stRingers are out!

PAtrick,

Again thanks for the help! Yes I did think about the water gettting out of the hull. I had palnned on making bilge holes in just about everything to allow the water out. Don't panic I'll post anything crazy before I destroy anything. I was thinking about using a 3/4" piece of PVC for the new drain as I've got tons of it and it's very easy to work with. Any thoughts?

I'll have pics later today.

Thanks
Lowell
 

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
810
Re: The stRingers are out!

Ohio,

Please do not use any pvc for drainage. Just put in another brass fitting (like the one for the transom) and then you can seal it when you are on the water (like you do with the transom) and then when you get back from boating (fishing), then you can open it when it is on the trailer to drain any water from the hull into the bilge, and then open the transom drain so ALL the water will drain out the bilge via the transom fitting. This is the best way to do it.

You want to be able to seal the hull drain fitting, in case the hull is compromised. Think of it this way...if you take a cup and turn it upside down, no water goes into the cup, but if you put a small hole in the bottom of the cup, it allows the water to flow into the cup. That is why the bilge area needs to completely sealed from the hull, until you want to open it! (i.e when it is on the trailer)
 

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
810
Re: The stRingers are out!

Here are a couple of examples of what I am talking about....LOL

Here is my cup story in pics...

P1020900.jpg


Here is where you should put the drain fittings...

P1020904.jpg


That will put your mind at ease and you should be able to have many many years of a rot proof boat, one that will be able to rid itself completely of water. My boat for example does NOT have any drain fitting from the hull to the bilge (it is wierd), but from the floor to the transom does have a drain out the transom, but when I get water in the hull, I can't drain the water...so I am going to put one of these drains in my boat in spring (drain from hull to bilge)...Good Luck

Patrick
 

Nova II 260

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
681
Re: The stRingers are out!

Partick is right on. If my old project boat had side drains (limber holes) from the mfg., it would not have been a project boat.
 

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
810
Re: The stRingers are out!

Hey Nova,

I have to put that drain in my boat first thing in spring. Yeah, I know what you mean about it becomming a project boat.

Patrick
 

OhioLowell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
189
Re: The stRingers are out!

Thanks guys!
I made a cardboard cutout for the new transom tonight. Looks good in the boat..LOL Now sometime this week I'll free the new transom from the 4x8 sheet of ply that now holds it captive.

I have a few questions. About the limber holes. In your pic you show the front piece of the bilge runing in between the 2 outside stringers. Wouldn't it amke sence to put a limber hole in this piece too? Also the stringers run from hull to floor wouldn't you want a way for water to get into the bilge too? I know that there shouldn't ever be water in the outside bilges but you know my feelings on theory. Not to sound ungreatful but why the insistance on brass for the bilge drain? I would think that PVC would work just the same. It would be plugged in the same manner as the brass. I'm just curious, not trying to be disrespectful. 8)

Now this afternoon my inner cheap skate came to the surface. Now I don't want to do anything 1/2 way but I came across a sale on fiberglass resin at ADVANCE AUTO this afternoon. It is made by bondo and is $22.00 a gallon. That's better than 1/2 price that of epoxy. I'll buy the epoxy if need be. Can I use poly resin to do the repairs that I'm currently in the middle of? CAn you mix polyresin with a filler to make a putty? Can you use resin to laminate the transom together before they are fiberglassed? Just some food for thought.

What weight cloth should I plan on using for all of this work?

Thanks again!
Lowell
 

OhioLowell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
189
Re: The stRingers are out!

Just out of curiosity Nova, what would a repair like that cost if someone where to pay to have it done?

I was actually up in your neck of the woods last tuesday getting the title for my boat. (longstory! ) I was just outside of dayton.

Thanks, Lowell
 

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
810
Re: The stRingers are out!

Ohio,

You can not put one in the front piece of the bilge (at least not right in front) because you are going to make a slant (refer to pic) to make the water run to the bilge area. Glass that in (the slant) so water moves to the drain!

I assumed you would notch that piece of wood (with a jigsaw) on both sides of the bilge, infact you can notch (very small) where ever you think that water needs to get out of to find its way to the limber hole.

If you don't want to make a slant for the bilge (you don't have to!), then you can definately put a drain fitting in the front board where you questioned me. That is fine.

I see you are questioning the workload you have started...LOL! Just stick with it and the forum can walk you through the details.

You can definately use (poly) resin. Epoxy is more expensive and a much better product, but because we all have to work for a living, I understand your need to save some cash. As far as making putty out of it, I am sure you can. I would try and find some premade putty (marine-tex), online and buy it that way if you can't get your hands on it locally.

You can laminate the transom with resin, you can even attach the laminated transom to the fiberglass on the boat (already), just make sure you clamp it or screw it to hold it. Check some other posts to see what weight of matts you should use...I think that 1.5oz. Matt for mating surfaces. I am uncertain for the top of the floor (can't remember). Someone will give you the proper weights....it's been a while , and it's late, and I will check tomorrow morning...I would try and get a small amount of epoxy to "glue" the stringers to the floor, and maybe make up the putty for the fillets. Other than that, just use your resin if you choose...keep in mind it is an inferior product to epoxy. I do understand your need to try and keep costs reasonable...and if you spend all your fuel money for fishing then what is the point of having a boat to go fishing in...LOL!
 

OhioLowell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
189
Re: The stRingers are out!

Patrick,

Thanks again for the info. I'm going to still order some epoxy. I'll just order 1.5gal now instead of the 3gal I was goning to order. However, the cheap polt will keep me in action until it arrives. I'll be able to get the transom put together and glassed up then I'll put it in the boat once the epoxy comes.

You mentioned in a earlier than some poly has a wax that forms when it kicks. Is roughing the bonding areas after the cure enough, or should I wipe it down with acetone or something as well? I was thinking is I wipe it down with something it would also remove any dust on the surface amking for a better bond.

Thanks again, I'll keep you posted!
Lowell
 

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
810
Re: The stRingers are out!

Ohio,

Absolutely wipe it down after you roughen it up, sorry if I did not specify that. Yes the cleaner, the stronger the bond.Good Luck!

Patrick
 

Nova II 260

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
681
Re: The stRingers are out!

..........mentioned in a earlier than some poly has a wax that forms when it kicks. Is roughing the bonding areas after the cure enough, or should I wipe it down with acetone or something as well? .....

Just to clarify, rough up the and wipe the old Fibreglass for good bonding with the new epoxy. Order non-blushing epoxy.
john Greer is a great place to order from.
Eric
 
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