The stRingers are out!

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Her I wrote some questions for you on your pic....here it is....

IMG_0265copy.jpg
 

Saskatoon2005

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

I know your picture is not to scale, but keep in mind that your drawing does show:

2 feet 4 inches - from bow to end of bow deck
4 feet 9 inches - from end of bow deck to end of livewell/gps/fishfinder/bait bucket
4 feet 9 inches - from end of livewell/gps/fishfinder/bait bucket to line drawn in front of seat bases
2 feet 2 inches - from line drawn in front of seat bases to back of boat.

The casting deck is a great size for strengthening the hull. I just wonder if the livewell is in a raised seat or is it the same height as the casting deck. That would be alright if it was the same height.

Also is the seat posts and storage area in the back, is that the same height as the casting deck? You may want to make it larger to accomodate your feet when sitting. You only have it set up as 2 feet 2 inches which isn't very much room. These numbers I have here are just based on your drawing that is all...looks great otherwise...
 

Nova II 260

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Lowell, a thought for you.
Foam will help in sound deadening and bouyancy. The foam that the mfg are required to use must be resistant to chemicals and fuel. You do not have that requirement, should you opt out. Where there is foam, water can not take it's place, so there's bouyancy where the foam displaces any water, for the given area. This particular closed cell foam (see pic) will not soak water, but, will disintegrate over time when contacted with fuel. This is basically dense styrofoam, done very well and inexpensive. (snatched pic)
052105a.jpg


good reading:
USCG Backyard builder info

the whole story for above pic
 

OhioLowell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 21, 2005
Messages
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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Thanks for all the info and help! You all ROCK!!

Now as for the foam I haven't decided yet I'll let you know.

As to the layout. THe front casting deck will most likely be the same height as the front bench seat (where the live well and GPS are is intended to be a seat). I haven;t decided yet on that. It'll be easier to decide once I get the hull up to snuff and I can play around with it some. The center area is floor level. The bench seat in the stern will only be about 8" from the transom. The storage on either side will only be big enough for a small tool box and misc boat stuff. My cas can will sit in the open bilge. Both bench seats will be approx. 12" tall.
The boat is 5'9" at the rail.

I started grinding the FG transom last night to celan it up. I got the outside and 1/2 of the interior done. I used a cupped wire wheel to remove all of the old glue and any remaining wood. This has left me with a coupla dumb questions. What are your tools of choice for grinding? I have a 4.5" angle grinder. How do you know when you're to bare glass? I would assume that once you get the surfaace to a point that it is dull and chalky then you have reached the glass?

Thanks again!

Lowell
 

Nova II 260

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Just below the gel or color coat. You should be able to see the stranding of the fibre (white) in the resin. white chalky is about right. An angle grinder with 80 grit discs is what I used. Doesn't take much. Keep it (water) wet and you won't have much itchy FB dust flying around. Makes it rough enough for the new epoxy to adhere to. In your case, you have to get rid of the blue. Weather sucks now so you may not be able to do this outside; soak painted area with lacquer thinner till it's soft and pressure wash it clean. Then just before applying the new resin mix wash the area with MEK or Lacquer thinner.
 

Saskatoon2005

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Make sure you keep updating us with pictures...love to see pictures. Glad you are getting lots of help from us...

That picture that Nova II 260, attached is exactly what I would do if I were you. But like you said, wait until you get to that point before deciding.

The cupped wire is fine and you may have more control over it. The grinder with 80 grit discs will be faster, but it will bite pretty good and you may find yourself right through to the other side.....LOL!

Thanks for the dimensions of your boat, I was just trying to get some idea of how it would look when finished....I may draw up another pic to see how it looks...I'll attach it so you can comment on it as well...

Patrick
 

JasonJ

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Saskatoon2005 said:
I am not exactly sure how it works, but if you have an area that you fill with something (anything), then the water which you don't want will not occupy it. This allows the boat to have something that prevents it from going to the bottom of the lake like a cement anchor. If you have nothing in the hull and it gets breached, and there is nothing to displace the water, then it will sink!

Something I feel is better than nothing....it's gonna do something to help...it's gotta....LOL!

Basically, lets say you have a boat that weighs 1000 pounds on land. Lets say the boat and all its gear and engine displaces 400 pounds of water, or roughly 6 cubic feet of water if the boat was completely submerged. In order to keep the boat at the surface, you would need to displace 9 more cubic feet of water.

This is all purely example of course. A person would need to have a failry accurate dry land weight of their boat with typical load to determine the amount of foam they needed. In my boat, I ended up calculating out to 16 cubic feet of foam needed to work.

If a weight for his boat is figured out, and he calculates a certain amount of foam, and it can't fit under the floor, then the excess that can't fit under the floor would need to be placed elsewhere. If that can't be done, then not having enough foam will be the same as having none at all.
 

Saskatoon2005

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Thanks Jason,

I understand now what you were saying earlier and it makes sense. So how could one calculate the weight of the boat...I imagine, take the boat and trailer to a weigh scale and weigh it. Then when you get home, take the boat off the trailer some how and take the trailer back to the scale and weigh it. Then subtract the weight of the trailer from the boat and trailer weight to get the weight of the boat only (with motor). You can add the weight of people allowed on the boat (as per ID/capacity plate). Then when you have that number what is the equation to find out how much foam is required.

You talk about displacement of water, but that is pretty difficult to do with your boat unless you have a huge enough tank...LOL!
 

JasonJ

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

I know. When I did mine I went off of original hull weight according to manufacturer, weight of my motor, and I weighed everything else I was putting in. I knew the boat would be lighter than stock, so I knew I was putting enough foam in. His boat clearly does not have enough under floor volume to even bother with. I don' know how he is going to configure his boat, so it is hard to speculate, but as a guess if he could get about 8 cubic feet of foam in the boat somewhere, it would be more than enough. He would be displacing 520 pounds of water, I am farily confident the boat/moter mass would displace the rest.
 

Saskatoon2005

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

...or if he got in trouble, let the motor and gas tank sink to the bottom of the lake.....LOL!
 

Saskatoon2005

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Hey Ohio,

You can't have the rear bench seat 8 inches from the transom...Well you can but you won't get any kind of tank in that narrow of a space. If you are using a 3 Gallon tank, then you need at least 9 inches. If you are using a 6 gallon Tank, which I recommend, then you need at least 13.5 inches of space from transom to seat. Just thought I would let you in on that...What size is your tank?
 

OhioLowell

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Oct 21, 2005
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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Thanks for all of the onfo about the foam and such! So far the weather has been alright. I'm not too affraid of the cold and wet. I peeled the old transom off in the rain! lol

As for the rear seat I've only read the dimensions of the 3GAL tank. Right now I have a 6.5 Gal, but I'd like something that will take up a little less space.

I'll try to get you all some more pics!

Lowell
 

Saskatoon2005

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Less space means less distance for travel. You can make the seating area open up for more room for the 6 gallon tank. I personally would not move down to a smaller size. With my 40 HP outboard, I have two tanks that almost last me a whole weekend for trolling (fishing). I will however be using a 7.5 from now on for trolling. I will be mounting it on the transom with the 40 HP. So there will be a ton of motor for this boat.....LOL!

[EDIT: How wide are your bench seats going to be? At least 12 inches but should be 18 inches. I will check on other boat sites to see what they should be]
 

Saskatoon2005

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Messages
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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Ohio,

I checked on some other websites for width of benches on small aluminum utility boats. The 14' boats are actually 13' 6". This you may find interesting:

...from transom to rear bench seat is 16". The rear bench is wider than the other seats in this boat. The rear bench seat is 16" wide. Then there is a 2' 10" open area for your feet/fishing tackle. Then another bench which is 12" wide.Then another open area which is a little larger at 3'. Then followed by the third bench which is the same as the second bench at 12". Then the space from the seat to the bow is another 3'. That equals the total length of 13' 6" for this boat. The width is the same as yours as well. I imagine that is the stock width of all 14' boats...LOL! I will add a picture with the proper dimensions for you to use in deciding where to put what in your boat.
 

Saskatoon2005

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Here is a great picture of what you can base your seating and stuff on, as well as spaces between and other stuff you need.

2007_sealite_14copy.jpg
 

OhioLowell

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Thanks fo the pics. That will give me some more food for thought. The layout I had in mind is very similar. Mine would only involve two benchs not 3. I did have another question about the casting deck though. I weigh about 200# but I fish with a few heavy weights and am concerned about the strangth of the new casting deck floor. I was plannig on using 1/2 ply to cut down on weight. The ply would be sheeted in one layer of FG cloth. SO long as the stringers for the casting deck are not too faw apart willl this set up hold someone 400#?

On another note the grinding continues!! YUK!! I've gotten the whole transom cleaned up. I'm going to hit it all with a coarser grit sanding media to bare the glass a little better. I have started on the hull where the new transom will need to bond. You know I LOVE the look and charcter of a lapstrake boat, but MAN are all of those strakes a pain in the behind to clean! All of this grinding has left me with a few more questions:

1) what is the best thing to get down into the cracks with? I was thinking a carbide scraper. The kind you would use to clean old paint from teim with a rounded face.
2) At the point where the transom meets the hull, this area is really difficult to get at, how good is good enough?
3) The transom is more torn up from screws than it first looked. You can see the damage now that it has been cleaned. I'm not too worried about the interior of the transom as the new transom will seal those up completely when it is epoxied in place. I will wrap the exterior of the transom with a layer of glass once the new transom is in, this will take care of the holes on the outside. Of course the holes will be filled with thickened epoxy before the glass goes on.
4) DO you think that 1.5 GAL of epoxy will be enough to do what I need to do? I would think that it would definatly be enough for the transom and the center stinger?
5) While pulling up the stringers I can across about a dozen 3" screws in the center stringer. These screws I would assume run through the hull and into the wooden keel. When I install the new center stringer I plan on laying a 1X4 on it's wide edge to allow me run new screws through, the I'll stand another 1X4 on edge on top of that to hold the floor. DOes that sound reasonable?
6) The old stringers appear to be fastened to the hull with resin. There is still a good deal of resin where the center stringer was, do I need to grind all of the old resin out before the new stringers go in?

Here's the pics I told you I'd get. This is the exterior of the transom after I has been cleaned up.
IMG_0267.jpg


This is the interior, only one side of the interior has been cleaned in this pic.
IMG_0268.jpg


Thanks again!

Lowell
 

Saskatoon2005

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

In another post, there was a guy who wanted to put a casting deck on a 12 foot boat...it was not advised do to the "tippiness" of the boat that size.

I am thinking that 400 LBS is not going to be too good up front there? I have a question though...If you weigh 200LBS, why do you need the front to hold 400LBS? What are you gonna have up front with you that weighs 200LBS? I wouldn't think that is goning to go over too well with people on here...LOL!

I would make a bow plate (the one that will hold your bow mount trolling motor), and then maybe forget the casting deck and add three benches. I am not too sure about your request. I wonder about all that weight going above the rail. A 14 ' boat would be pretty tippy ith that much weight above the rail.
 

OhioLowell

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Maybe somethings been lost in the translation. The casting deck will be about 12-14 below the rail (just higher than the floor). I was asking because I didn;t knwo if I needed to put a weight limit on the casting deck. From what you're saying it sounds like a "captian's" only casting deck. LOL

I just don't want the deck to give out under someone and then have a broke boat and hurt feelings.

Lowell
 

Saskatoon2005

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Ohio,

If you put enough lumber and fiberglass under the casting deck, I guess you can put whatever you want on it.

How is the keel attached to the boat? Are you sure there is wood in there? I mean why would they have fiberglass, then wood and then more fiberglass? If the keel section got water in it then the wood would be rotten. You should cut into that keel area from inside and check the condition of the keel (if it is made of wood). If it got water in there. remove the wood, seal the inside of the keel with fiberglass mat and resin. Replace with new wood, and then reseal with new fiberglass overtop.

When installing center stringer, you can either install stringer without putting one 1X4 down wide. Or you can install a 1X4 down wide and then glass one on edge.

Grind out enough of the resin to make sure you can lay the stringer in place on a flat surface. It will adhere that much better.
 

Mark42

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Re: The stingers are out!

Re: The stingers are out!

Wow, you really cleaned up the transom. Nice surprise seeing the glass there.

So, with this latest turn of events, I would cut a transom from p/t plywood, trial fit to the inside, then cover it in two layers of glass and epoxy or glass/resin it to the old transom. Be sure to put a small fillet on the inside. The outside can just have the holes filled with epoxy, sand smooth and paint. I don't see any point in laying up more glass on the outside, unless the existing glass is cracked/ripped. All those holes will fill just fine with epoxy.
 
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