Stringer repair

bjf66

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bjf66

Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 6, 2016
Messages
406
Thought I would post a few pictures of the welded string rails and mounts.
There was a little dist oration on Port side, however managed top open a few of the holes up from 12mm to 14mm and fitted good

More importantly engine/transmission bolted back in and alignment is in centre of boat when I checked with laser pointer in came bearing lcoation

There was a few hours welding as had to heat up the 10mm alum plate/angle and then tack weld, and remove form boat and then finish welding outside of boat
Temperature dropped to 10 C that morning so I was helping heat up the plate prior to welding

Not sure whether to anodize the aluminium rails and mid engine plate or just paint them with good marine /industrial epoxy paint
another step ticked off
 

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bjf66

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cut hole in dash tonight to locate the char Lynn hydraulic steering pump
#201-1007-003 (new model now is 211-1007-003) which will pump 23 litres/min (6 gallons), this is needed to move the arneson drive,
have 3" long column now
However dash is much thicker so need to move up to 6" long steering column, then adapt to steering hub/wheel
possible put larger wedge in behind dash to get the correct angle...whatever that is which feels okay for seat height and leg room
I figure need to have the seats raised around 100-120mm from floor
http://www.eatonpowersource.com/products/configure/steering-systems/details/211-1007-002/
 

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bjf66

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positioned closed water system tonight to see whether it would go behind motor, however looks like hoses will be too messy
may need to put this in correct location in front of engine
managed to pick up a pair of GM 7.4 litres closed systems for special price as contact was upgrading with new engines and closed cooling system came with new engines
 

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mickyryan

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cant wait to see ya fly by :)
2c86d11c9ffae60a394f0300430cc633.jpg
 

Scott Danforth

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positioned closed water system tonight to see whether it would go behind motor, however looks like hoses will be too messy
may need to put this in correct location in front of engine
managed to pick up a pair of GM 7.4 litres closed systems for special price as contact was upgrading with new engines and closed cooling system came with new engines

remember, stock HX is sized for stock motor output. you might have to use both of the HX's if you want a full system. I would add a larger expansion tank.
 

bjf66

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Scott
good point hadn't given it much thought, as not too sure whether I will run the twin turbo on 502 ci or put the natural aspirated 556 ci engine
sounds like i need to run half system and run the exhaust with sea water that way keep the heat down
I checked the Heat Exchanger tank dimensions and they are 5.1" x 21.5" long

while I was at it checked the oil coolers I have here which are sen-dure Copper Nickel 3" Dia x 18" long body, so along with 14 litres engine sump should keep cool

need to talk to someone about increasing the size of expansion tank which appears to be 16" long, not sure whether it would be better to run remote tank or play around with existing HE
 

Scott Danforth

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when the HX was designed, the expansion volume was half that is required. hence the reason Mercruiser runs puke tanks.
you could always use a remote expansion tank https://www.summitracing.com/search...ch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=expansion tank

just plumb to the existing expansion tank rad cap location on your HX

you could run one for the motor and the second for the exhaust (use an electric circulating pump moving coolant at about 20 gpm)

are the HX's monitor or champ (look at end cap).

the 3 x 18 will be more than plenty. you may need a t-stat bypass. I will be running a 3x14 which is overkill (the 3x15 is what is used on 500hp diesels)

also take a look at the Volvo Penta MOAS tank on their newer boat motors. MOAS (Mother Of All Separators) is a fantastic designed expansion/deareation tank.
 

bjf66

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Scott
yes I was looking at the end of the tanks tonight as they need to be flushed
look to be San Juan Eng
Good tip on the catch /expansion tank

what do you recommend to flush out the HX with?, and I suppose should check the pressure so they aren't leaking
what pressure do you suggest to test them with?

cheers
Brett
 

Scott Danforth

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not sure how many passes the San Juan have. the factory (Champ) units are 5-1/2 passes.

for cleaning pull the end caps, use a beer tap cleaning brush and some toilet bowl cleaner. then fresh water rinse.

cleaning the shell side is nearly impossible to clean. if they are fouled, you may need to be creative

pressure test with end caps off to about 20 psi (may need to make a custom pressure cap) in a clear plastic tank filled with water. put a trouble light on the outside so you can clearly see bubbles forming.
 
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bjf66

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pulled apart the heat exchanger's today to have a wee look inside
Yes, they need a clean
went up to local radiator shop who wanted $100 to clean them out, with cold flush
so decided would do it myself with CFS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlPOIh4ZjUg

order the concentrate, dilute 4/1, and keeps for next time
Scott can you identify the type of HX I have?

started looking at plumbing for the sea water cooling
 

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bjf66

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trying to plan for the char Lynn hem installation however dash is quite thick and at present only have 3" long steering column
Need some sort of adapter to mount steering wheel
have asked a few places what they would recommend but not much feedback, guess most boats are running the small helm
glassed a wedge in behind dash, however needs another 5 degrees tilt
can fill the hole in dash after have the helm adapter sorted

Char Lynn 201-1007-003 (211-1007-003)
Displacement: 4.5"
4-8 GPM flow rate
Max pressure: 2500psi

Will try and get sorted by end of week the way forward
 

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bjf66

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Turned attention to the HX sea water cooling system as flush CFS will be here in 3 days then will be able to start cleaning HX

Have been looking at where to locate the hull water pickup for last few days, actually didn't really want to drill the hole in the hull
Previously had mercruiser transom mount water pickup, but mate needed it for his boat
So no choice but drill

after about an hour of checking dimensions and the angle to clear the bunks on trailer and to clear the inside stringer, managed to drill the pilot hole for the 1.25" hole saw
managed to drill without chipping gel coat but drill this part in reverse

cleaned hole up last night and brushed acetone,and west epoxy 105 on the exposed glass to seal, hit it with small heater this morning to ensure it was completely dried

Used Silflex 291 to seal the Stainless Steel clam shell water pickup and pipe in hull

Then turned attention to finding suitable location for the Gil sea strainer, ball value
going to fabricate aluminium plate to support sea strainer and attach to stringer rail

Need 45 degree elbow to align the hose connections, that will place the sea strianer just above the water level ....I hope

Glad to get that out of the way wasn't looking froward to drill the hull
 

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bjf66

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have the sea strainer bracket fabricated, and ready to install, thought I would wait for the 1.25" stainless 45 degrees fitting thats been ordered so i can get the hose 1.50" hose align for the sea water for Heat Exchanger
Chemicals to clean HX should be here by friday

Turned my attention to the Char Lynn Helm steering pump, been looking around for adapter for helm
so picked one out last night and ordered, should be here next week from USA

so will try and stay with 3" steering column and if needed router out the back of dash a little to ensure have sufficient taper coming through dash to tighten down on the tapered shaft for the adapter
 
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