Still wont start - what's next?

[Rmsari]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Before pulling head, I'd try soaking the cylinders in Seafoam. Place motor with spark plug holes pointing up and pour a little Seafoam in each. Let soak a day or two and re-check compression. 55-60psi and even really isn't that bad, and should come up with the Seafoam soak. Even so, you should have gotten some fire by pouring gas directly into the cylinders if you had good spark.

Ok - I'll try the seafoam. I was getting spark on tester though. Starting to get a little stumped now.

Weird part is that I got it running at one point (after about 50 pulls) and then could not get it to fire up again. I did not check compression prior to getting it to start. That is why I changed all electrics - thought may be spark was weak and it was intermittent. The one time I did get it running. It was getting hot though - no water thru pee hole. I shut if down when I noticed i - probably let it run a little longer than I should have though. Maybe I f'd something up then.

thanks for the help. I'd be completely lost on my own at this point.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

A trick that never failed me when fighting engines with problems like yours was the following.
Get a spray can of fogging oi from BPR.
Open the carb full and spray. The fogging oil should foam up and completely fill up.
Pull the cord.
It should all be sucked into the engine and will 'seal' up all internal leakages between crank halves and cylinders/pistons.
Ether the engine starts with a lot of smoke, but if the plugs are dry, you are in severe troubles!

 

[Rmsari]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

A trick that never failed me when fighting engines with problems like yours was the following.
Get a spray can of fogging oi from BPR.
Open the carb full and spray. The fogging oil should foam up and completely fill up.
Pull the cord.
It should all be sucked into the engine and will 'seal' up all internal leakages between crank halves and cylinders/pistons.
Ether the engine starts with a lot of smoke, but if the plugs are dry, you are in severe troubles!

Ok. I'll try that too. Just curious what would dry plugs mean in this case?

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Dry plugs means that it is no 'suction' in the carb throat which again means 0 crank case compression and full blow-by between the crank case halves.
A compression test only means you have the piston rings sealing from piston top and down, but tell nothing about sealing between the different crank cases. The oil will make a thick film and seal off if possible as well as seal off leaf plates.

 

[Sandor27]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

There is no "pee" stream on this motor like on the newer ('78+?) motors, but there is an openning in the rear middle of the leg that will spit some water.

Could the spark plug wires be reversed? Have you checked the reed valves. Perhaps after sitting a few years they look like this:

 

[Rmsari]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

There is no "pee" stream on this motor like on the newer ('78+?) motors, but there is an openning in the rear middle of the leg that will spit some water.

Could the spark plug wires be reversed? Have you checked the reed valves. Perhaps after sitting a few years they look like this:

View attachment 114532

Have not check reed valves. If bad would it keep fuel from pulling into cyclinders? I'll check plug wires - i just put them back to way PO had them.

So water does not stream out of that hole? But just spit some? Hmm.. That might explain whey impeller looked pretty good when I swapped out. The one time I did get it running the motor was running hot though. Head gasket?

 

[Rmsari]

Dry plugs means that it is no 'suction' in the carb throat which again means 0 crank case compression and full blow-by between the crank case halves.
A compression test only means you have the piston rings sealing from piston top and down, but tell nothing about sealing between the different crank cases. The oil will make a thick film and seal off if possible as well as seal off leaf plates.

Okay - shot fogging oil into it. cranked - nothing and plugs dry as bone. I did put seafoam in cylinders to soak but not feeling to go about impact at this point. Doubled checked defintely getting spark.

Any suggestion now?

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Time for dismantling.
Start with head, then leaf plate.
Off with power head and complete tear down if nothing significant is found.
If engine is not sucking in that mix, something is severely wrong below the pistons.

 

[Rmsari]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Okay. thanks. Sounds like an adventure. Probably should have checked this first before changing out the electrics. Now I feel I need to tear it down and see what's going. So much for a free motor.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Probably a reason it was free???

 

[Rmsari]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Any chance it could just be leaf plate or is that a long shot?

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Why I said head and leaf plate before removing power head.

 

[Rmsari]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Who knows maybe I will get lucky. Is there anyway on these motors to do a crankcase compression check?

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

No specs given.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

sure. Just use an automotive compression tester. You should be able to get one at an auto parts store or Harbor Freight for about $25. It should just screw right into the spark plug sockets. Just screw it in tight and give the motor several good pulls and check the compression. It's best to check it once the motor has been running for awhile, if at all possible. Anything over 60 psi will work and the two cylinders should be within 10% of each other. The good news is that if the compression is low, you might just need a head gasket, which is a pretty quick and easy fix. I think your reeds are probably ok. they very rarely go bad. Check the comp and let us know what you find.

 

[Rmsari]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Got the head off - walls look good, no scoring or pitting. Need to get intake off - don't know why they used button head slotted screws versus hex bolts. Any idea on how to get them out withought stripping - I don' think they have ever been removed.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Use an impact driver.

 

[Rmsari]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

thanks - good suggestion - couple of them are in tight angles though - will probably have to pull the head to get to it.

 

[idonthaveaname]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

just curious, but why wouldn't you just take the motor to a mechanic? unless, of course, you have a lot of time and money to throw into the motor. i mean, i understand the do-it-yourself concept but it seems like you are doing-it-by-guess concept, meaning throw parts at it until it runs. seems a waste of money and time...unless you have nothing else to do of course.

 

[Rmsari]

Re: Still wont start - what's next?

Pulled the motor head and have a question on lower seal. Trying to find on motor head part list and do not see it.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Powerhead+Group

But snapped a couple of pics - one of the washer steel with rubber on top left behing on lower motor case over shaft and the other of the bottom of the motor head. See a lot of oil showing around the bottom motor head seal making me think it is bad and could that explain the lack of crankcase compression?.

But defer to the experts - any insights? thanks