Starcraft Chieftain 1972 MK4

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ezmobee

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

I'm as pro-outboard as you can get, but just as with jas' islander thread, I'm throwing my vote towards Glen's post above.
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Still just doing the research. Anybody heard of Wholesale-Outboards? They have some killer deals on their website. 2012 new Yamaha 150 @ $6,250. I also found a bracket company that will build a full swim platform with the v-shaped flotation chamber delivered $1,650.

To get the reliability I'm looking for gonna have to spend some $$$ and when you see how much the cockpit opens up it really makes this setup into cruising boat.
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

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Thanks, figured it was to good to be true.
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Thought I would show some progress:

Used a come along to get the beast off the trailer onto some dollies
The beast on dollies.jpg

The interior is now completely gutted, am about 95% done with demo.
Inside gutted.jpg

This picture is the rear view of the stringers that run to the back of the boat. I envision coming up with some quarter in aluminum stock and tying them into the rear transom once I re-install.
Inside back gutted transom.jpg

Finally, as I get ready to start re-attaching stuff I want to make sure I am using the right material. I am assuming aluminum rivets but there where a lot of screws that where also used. Should any fastener that is not a rivet be stainless steel??? I thought there was reaction when you try to fasten two different metals together.

Thanks
 

Stevens520

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Congrats on the progress! Since you are the first i've seen on here to completely gut a 25' cheif, now at least I can see what awaits me.:)
As far as the screws go; everything i've removed off of mine has been stainless so far. I'm assuming they were factory.
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

So stainless and aluminum create no issues? The reason I ask is when I reinforce the transom i will be using aluminum plate with stainless fasteners
 

Stevens520

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

I've been wondering the same thing, but the stainless screws that i did remove did not show any signs of corrosion on the screw or the area surrounding the screw. But as far as i can tell, the boat hasn't been anywhere near salt water; have no idea if that would make a difference.
 

jasoutside

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Chemistry guys can tell you the reason that corrosion is of little concern between SS and Alum. I believe that the metals are less "dissimilar" (if that makes any sense). Just shootin from the hip here though:D
 

Bwana Don

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Barring a chemistry lesson, there is little concern for corrosion between these two metals.
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

So the monster is completely gutted, all the wood and anything removable is out. Still trying to figure out what I am going to do about the windows, just clean them up or remove the frames and re-install.

I live in Minnesota so can't pressure wash for awhile so I think I'll start fabricating the new wood pieces that go back in. I have been reading up on plywood and it appears quality birch is the strongest stuff out there. Interested in comments.

Also am 99.9% sure I'm going with an outboard on a bracket. I'm thinking either something in the 150 to 175 HP range which gives me the same power as the old 165. The boat came with two side gas tanks that where 18 gals each and look to be serviceable but if I move the tank under the deck I can free up another 10 inches of side space along the whole length of the cockpit. I will most likely cruise at the speed that gives me the best mpg, in th 20's somewhere. What do you guys think I should set as my minimum tank size?
 

ezmobee

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Here's my thought on motor size. V4 outboards are usually in the 90-140HP range. V6 outboards are usually in the 150-250 range. With little to no additional weight, I'd be jumping up towards the largest size in the same cylinder range. I'd get a 200 or 225 for that 24' monster. (In a similar vein, my boat is rated for 150 which is a V6, however I would not even consider jumping up to a V6 due to the added weight and complexity of additional carb(s). I'd sure as heck like to get my hands on a 140 though).
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Suzuki makes a 175 inline 4 that weighs the same as their 140. If I could find a used one that is what I would go with.
 

Stevens520

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Birch plywood is plenty strong, but am unsure of it's rot resistance. I've been going over the same question extensively for the past 8 months. Have seen some of the guys on here swear by Arauco, and have read other places to avoid it. I have a hunch I'm going to bite the bullet and go the extra few bucks and use CCA treated marine plywood instead ; I figure if I'm going to go through the trouble of tearing it apart, I might as well do it right with a material that will last as long as the factory wood did. I'm curious to see what you come up with to replace the fuel tanks; 36 gallons for a 25' boat is not very much.What I have noticed with the gunnel tanks is it seems to help make the boat a little tender while sitting at anchor. I would like to have that weight sitting lower in the boat myself , but have noticed the main area in the boat for flotation foam is underneath the cockpit floor. Also noticed that there is a nice place to mount a tank down by where the water tank sits. I'm thinking dual tanks would fit in those spots (port & Stbd) nicely, and would be easy to route all the vent hoses down there as well. Also very interested in seeing how the bracket works out; if the price is right, then do it! a 175 would push the boat nicely.
 

Weep'n Willy

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

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I'm with you on the CCA marine plywood. After plenty research and checking local availability and prices I purchased it for both the transom and decking. For around $300 got enough to do all with it. Also after completing fab of transom it was sealed with epoxy as a double assurance I won't have to replace it again, at least in my lifetime. Considering the amount of time it takes to remove and install the new transom I didn't feel that was too bad a price to do it once.
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Does anybody beside miss the JAS commentary?
 

spegtoast

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Does anybody beside miss the JAS commentary?

You got my vote:sleeping:

Havent heard much from you either. Watching your progress and coming along well. Made any new decisions lately? Or still lookin for that suzukii.
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Definitely going with the bracket. I'm at the point on the hull where i need nice weather so I can pressure wash and gluvit.

Went out and bought $500 bucks worth of plywood. Two sheets of 3/4 inch AB fir for the transom and 5 sheets of1/2 inch HDO for the deck.

While I'm waiting on warmer weather I am going to fab the transom reinforcement, will post pics since I will want input from the gang.

Suzuki 150 & 175 weigh the same, if I can find one that is in the 4-6 year old range and the price is right I'm going for it.
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Was out in the shop today doing some work on the boat. I think I am going to move the step forward.
stair move 2.jpg
As you can see the current step from the cabin to the deck is set about 28 inches back from where the main bulkhead will be, this is primarily do to the single door which in 24 inches wide.

If I move the step forward
stair move1.jpg

like this picture shows I create a larger deck area. I will make a double door scenario with a drop board to close off the step. I mocked it up and it seems to work fine.

I believe i can go with two under deck gas tanks that will hold between 25 & 30 gallons each which increases my tankage from 36 gals to at least 50 gals. I have room to go larger but am concerned with weight.

My final weight issue is where to put the two batteries. If I go with the outboard bracket I am thinking the offset of the outboard becomes a mute point due to the additional buoyancy the flotation pod provides on the bracket. If so then putting close to the transom makes life easy. This spring once I have the transom welded up and most of the plywood back in the boat and the bracket mounted I think I float her just to see how she sits without the motor attached.
 

Sc25175

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Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Sorry, this picture is the mock up of the after location for the stair.stair move3.jpg
 
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