Starcraft Chieftain 1972 MK4

[jasoutside]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

It sure wouldn't hurt any but prolly unnecessary if you are going to care for the ol girl even a little.

 

[barato2]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

i think it might add so much thickness that it would be tough to get back in. as Jas said, if you've epoxied it, no need for undercoat. drilling a few drain holes in the "shelf" bottom of ttransom sits in would help as much.

 

[Sc25175]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

As I prepare for the leak test I am needing to order some Gluvit. For some reason I'm struggling with how effective applying Gluvit will be to sealing leaks. Unless it is the consistency of water I don't see how it will seal any loose rivets. Would someone who has used it describe how thick it is and will it really work its way into the rivets.

 

[dozerII]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

As I prepare for the leak test I am needing to order some Gluvit. For some reason I'm struggling with how effective applying Gluvit will be to sealing leaks. Unless it is the consistency of water I don't see how it will seal any loose rivets. Would someone who has used it describe how thick it is and will it really work its way into the rivets.

Gluvit is actually pretty thick, but takes a long time to cure so it wicks into all the seams and rivets really well. Many many of use it with great success and in my opinion is a must do on any Tin restoration.

 

[Sc25175]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Thanks for the input.

Technique question? Do you apply on top of the rivets and how liberally?

 

[dozerII]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Thanks for the input.

Technique question? Do you apply on top of the rivets and how liberally?

I use a cheap disposable brush, starting at the seam between the sides and bottom of the hull, brush as thin a coat as you can over the rivets and seams. Up front where the sides come together there will be a sealant that Starcraft put in from the factory, make sure to check it's integrity, it usually lifts out pretty easy, if so remove it then put in Gluvit.

 

[Sc25175]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Haven't posted for awhile. I have been sanding the sides but now need to get at the bottom. I built two hoist stations and raised it up a bit and laid it over on the side. Worked great! Will now sand half the bottom, paint it then lay it over on the other side and paint it.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Big boats take some creativity to work em, nice job on the tip Steve!

 

[Sc25175]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Been awhile since I have shown progress:

I have the boat tipped and etched and painted the bottom


Back on the dollies, transom installed and dry fitted the motor bracket


Started on reinstalling the cabin floor. I really like the HDO plywood I bought, really strong. Will post on more regular basis as she starts to go back together. I was able to insulate my shop and sheet rock it so I will have a warm place to work this winter so should make serious progress.

 

[classiccat]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

That's a great setup you have there!

Bottom paint & transom turned-out great! What paint did you end-up using?

 

[rheagler]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Nice work Steve!

 

[djpeters]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

First time seeing your thread and I just read it all. Nice work. So, is that a store bought OB bracket?

 

[Sc25175]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

First time seeing your thread and I just read it all. Nice work. So, is that a store bought OB bracket?

Bought the bracket from A&J Marine welding out of Florida.

The paint came from Tractor supply. Farm Implement paint with hardener added.

 

[Sc25175]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

As I start to lay the deck back down I need to start thinking about what I am going to use for final finish.

Has anybody heard of or used a product called Tuff Coat. It is a rubberized non skid Marine finish and what I can see on the internet it looks pretty good. I'm not looking for show boat finish but something that is non-skid and durable. I like the idea of Natolex but it seems like a lot more work vs just painting on a coating. It also sounds like you can just re-coat as needed.

Looking for opinions

 

[barato2]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

i used that stuff on my Lone star interior and basically like it. it's latex based so cleanup is simple and seems to be standing up to West TX sun OK. you do need to get the surface way rough....for aluminim hull, the mfgr recommends a 36 grit finish. 36 grit on an angle grinder applied to alum hull will produce , bar none, the most loud and hideous noise of any job i've done on these boats yet.....record it to scare small children at Halloween. you can roll or spray it on; i rolled it since you need spacial tip for gun to spray, and was happy. you do need to do multiple coats to get good coverage and "spackled" effect.

there's a similar but more "pro grade" product called Durabak....pricier, nightmare to clean up after (xylene thinned), and you also need to do the 36 grit shuffle, but it's beyond tough and sticks like mad....i had to chisel off many of the drips, even when they fell on a dirt covered area in the bilge....it literally soaked through the dirt and stuck like mad to the metal. mfgr of that stuff has a letter from training coordinator at i think Maine MArtime Academy, who notes that it stands up well to having big-ship-size anchors dragged across it and being rinsed off with salt water daily. i put it on bow of my "Holiner" since i needed maximum foot traction to avoid fallin overboard while fishing solo offshore, and it delivered.....so rough that you'll skin your knee if you fall on it, literally. it's maybe 50% more than TuffCoat (but i bet will last >50% longer) and still requires mutliple coats.

i think you're right on the "recoat" factor. Tufffcoat is better there cuz you can buy quarts, while i think DuraBak still only comes in gallons. one consideration on either of these is that "rough" factor.....this might not be the best choice if you have small kids aboard a lot. i'm not exaggerating at all, have skinned places on my body on both of these coatings. Nautolex seems much more body friendly(i have the roll, haven't installed it yet), and i suspect it will come out pretty close to the Tuffcoat/durabak $wise once you factor in the multiple coats. esp if you eschew the pricey Nautolex adhesive as some have and just use regular carpet adhesive.

 

[nomrwrk]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

I had the same debate when I refurbished my first boat (16 ft Alumacraft) three years ago. I went the Nautolex route and I am quite happy with the results. As you can see from this picture (redoing all of the wood in my 1974 Chieftain), I went all-out with the vinyl - I wanted a wash-down fishing machine. The key is to wrap the edges and tape the seams on the back side. For the cuddy walls, I wasn't able to wrap the edges (both sides have vinyl) so I used 3/4" angle aluminum to secure the front edge and my old door frame to secure the back side (I reversed my door to open in instead of out). I will use starboard to make my new door (the opening is now 24" wide)

 

[Weep'n Willy]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Steve, I put the Natolex in my Chief and absolutely love it. I did not use the pricey Nautolex Adhesive but instead opted for the Weldwood Contact Cement from Home Depot at $29/gal. It did not stain, discolor, or distort the Nautolex and when it went down it stayed down. I bought the 72" wide Nautolex so it would cover not only the deck but a couple inches up each side of the hull so any rain or say if you wash it down the water would run straight to the transom and not go down under the floor. Bedliner is fine for a truck bed but I certainly didn't want a floor that rough in a boat.

 

[Sc25175]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Thanks guys, doesn't look like is going to be an easy decision.

 

[nomrwrk]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

I also used Weldwood Contact Cement and 2nd Willy's comments. Don't use the low odor version, it doesn't work nearly as well. I can also attest that the Nautolex vinyl is tough. In my small boat, it has held up to crab pots with rebar on them, crab claws, needle sharp hooks, lead weights, dropped knives etc. It barely looks used after three years of abuse. It also cleans up very with a scrub brush. I also discovered that it can handle a metal cutting blade on an angle grinder - scared, but not cut through :facepalm:

 

[Sc25175]

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Re: Chieftain 1972 MK4

Time to show more progress and ask a question



As you can see I have the external sea bracket mounted and am 95% done with the internal reinforcement. Still have to connect the aluminum plate to the boat stringers.

My question is now that I will start laying the deck I am going to use the entire middle portion you see that has a piece of plywood riveted in the bottom as storage. I need to come up with a couple of good size hatches. I want to make the hatches but does anyone know what I can get trim rings like you would get on a ski boat for ski storage or an rv compartment hatch. Any other ideas would be welcomed.