Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

ShoestringMariner

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Do you have an air riveter? I got one of those for this project, and I went from hating pop rivets to loving them! I do know what you mean about the vacuuming though. Seems even with the constant cleaning, I'm still tracking shiny bits of aluminum back in the house.
Hang in there though. Any rivet you set for good is one step closer to the finish line!
Thanks. I bought one but it was missing the mandrel collector cup and after looking it over, I decided I was going to take it back. The rivets are an easy 2-3 crank to pop, so I thought my hand riveter would actually be less cumbersome to use. And my compressor is on it’s very last legs. Sounds like the rod is going to break any day
I think what’s taking up a lot of time was laying tape down for the layout and trying to wick goop in the holes with a rivet mandrel. Boy, does that glue go to the head when your working right over top of it
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Air riveter for solids and blind is the way to go. You have now idea how nice blind rivets are until you buck a couple thousand solids. lol

SHSU
 

ShoestringMariner

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Got a Steering question for you guys. I have a couple of rotary systems from a few donor boats. I’m not using the rack and pinion that was in the boat for better space behind the dash and because the spindle shaft threads were toast bu a previous owner.

Are the cables all interchangeable on these things? The steering box I want to use has the threaded through-hull set up (where it attaches to the splashwell) but I’m not using that one until I rebuild the splashwell during another winter project
 

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SHSU

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You would have to try and swap them. I think its the connectors at the helm that will make or break the idea. Other option is just swap the whole steering box. Holes should be the same so should just be a simple unbolt and rebolt.

SHSU
 

ShoestringMariner

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You would have to try and swap them. I think its the connectors at the helm that will make or break the idea. Other option is just swap the whole steering box. Holes should be the same so should just be a simple unbolt and rebolt.

SHSU
Thanks. I think I have some flexibility regarding connections at the helm. It will be a brand new dashboard so hole patterns will be to suit.

I think your idea to swap them around and see if it works is best. I was just hoping to find a quick answer save some time.
 

ShoestringMariner

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Hey, do you guys have any ideas where to mount the shore power plug in port? I’m adding it for the dual bank battery charger. The charger will be mounted under the drivers or passengers helm. Concerned with spray. There is a rubber gasket that comes with it. But I don’t want to see it getting pounded with water. I’m not sure exactly where the water starts to come up the sides at power. I know there’s been many times water has splashed past the side window so wondering if I should move it forward towards the bow ? 63E7713C-D356-450A-B245-529A0E715CAF.jpeg
 

BOYS & TOYS

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
141
If the steering unit with the pin retaining the cable is a no feed back I would use it.
I used a old cable in a nfb box with an adapter I made on the lathe. Not sure if it is something commercially available.
 

ShoestringMariner

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Apr 18, 2015
Messages
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If the steering unit with the pin retaining the cable is a no feed back I would use it.
I used a old cable in a nfb box with an adapter I made on the lathe. Not sure if it is something commercially available.
The one I was contemplating using says no feedback. I don’t understand what you mean about nfb box
 

ShoestringMariner

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Messages
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If the steering unit with the pin retaining the cable is a no feed back I would use it.
I used a old cable in a nfb box with an adapter I made on the lathe. Not sure if it is something commercially available.
Ah I just clued…nfb = No feedback…of course
 

BOYS & TOYS

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Mar 1, 2008
Messages
141
The only new steering kit I have been disappointed with was a "Xtreme NFB steering kit" . The kit has too many turns lock to lock. Docking can be annoying.
On a positive note the kit has no slack in the cable as advertised.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Hey, do you guys have any ideas where to mount the shore power plug in port? I’m adding it for the dual bank battery charger. The charger will be mounted under the drivers or passengers helm. Concerned with spray. There is a rubber gasket that comes with it. But I don’t want to see it getting pounded with water. I’m not sure exactly where the water starts to come up the sides at power. I know there’s been many times water has splashed past the side window so wondering if I should move it forward towards the bow ?

I have ours mounted on the front of the console. It has been pounded by water many times with no issue. As you aren't plugged into power during use the cover seals out the water.

SHSU
 

renns

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Dec 20, 2017
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316
(Puts hand up sheepishly...) Can I ask what this charging port is typically used for? Does the charging system on the boat not re-charge the batteries when you're underway? Or is it that the trolling battery is so depleted it needs more time 'on charge' than the typical return trip to the dock can offer?
 

MNhunter1

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May 12, 2014
Messages
989
(Puts hand up sheepishly...) Can I ask what this charging port is typically used for? Does the charging system on the boat not re-charge the batteries when you're underway? Or is it that the trolling battery is so depleted it needs more time 'on charge' than the typical return trip to the dock can offer?
It's for boats equipped with onboard chargers, allows for a more convienent way to plug the boat in when you get back home to charge and maintain the batteries.
 

FIGMO

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Jun 18, 2017
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Hey, do you guys have any ideas where to mount the shore power plug in port? I’m adding it for the dual bank battery charger. The charger will be mounted under the drivers or passengers helm. Concerned with spray. There is a rubber gasket that comes with it. But I don’t want to see it getting pounded with water. I’m not sure exactly where the water starts to come up the sides at power. I know there’s been many times water has splashed past the side window so wondering if I should move it forward towards the bow ? View attachment 359472
I put mine right up on the bow:

 

ShoestringMariner

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Hey guys, before I wrestle this piece out, will it drop out without a major major battle? I want to re-clad it with the blue nautolex. Perhaps make a padded piece for it later. But for now the fake Burl has to go.

I don’t want to sound lazy but to disconnect everything and drill the rivets just to find it I can’t get the damn thing out, I might just as well leave well enough alone and strip what I can and clad it.
 

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ShoestringMariner

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Shame to cover it up. Looks like a nice piece of mahogany.
I bet it would glow under some varnish
 

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renns

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 20, 2017
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316
Is that use of wood normal for the Starcraft line? That's all aluminum in my hull.
 

MNhunter1

Ensign
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
989
Hey guys, before I wrestle this piece out, will it drop out without a major major battle? I want to re-clad it with the blue nautolex. Perhaps make a padded piece for it later. But for now the fake Burl has to go.

I don’t want to sound lazy but to disconnect everything and drill the rivets just to find it I can’t get the damn thing out, I might just as well leave well enough alone and strip what I can and clad it.
Only way to remove it without cutting it in two is to remove the bow cap.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Messages
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Is that use of wood normal for the Starcraft line? That's all aluminum in my hull.
Wood in mine. Personally would have preferred aluminum. Guess they changed the design over the years.

SHSU
 
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