Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

Watermann

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Wondering how much gap to leave between pull out or hinged panels. I’m planning on using that vinyl marine flooring that looks like carpet. Has a nonslip texture. I’d like to fold it down over the edges and wrap it underneath by half an inch or so
i’m going to doubt that a jigsaw cut is enough. Eighth of an inch perhaps?

if I had the flooring I wouldn’t ask. For right now I’m only going to varnish these pieces for this season. Carpet will happen over the winter or next spring

If the hatches don't have latches to keep them closed and you rely on friction then they will bounce open and closed if the gap is too much. Using a zig saw your right it won't be enough space but a belt sander with 80g can adjust that quickly. Personally I used small skillsaw and plunge cut the straight lines and used the jigsaw for the rounded corners. The gap should then be easier to adjust on just the corners.

You'll need to go at least a inch to 1.5 on the overlap on the underside, otherwise there's not enough material to hang onto to pull tight.
 

ShoestringMariner

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Anyone know starcraft paint codes?
Trying to determine what the original colour was. I’m thinking it was probably close to “safety blue” but I think I prefer the faded sky blue.

Anyone painted theirs the original blue and white? I want to strip and repaint the splash-well in the paint booth at work while it’s out.
 
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Michigan Lakes

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I found the Rustoleum Professional "Safety Blue" to be a somewhat close match to the original paint color. Please note that this is in relation to unfaded sections, such as the insides of the consoles. The before and after pictures should give a decent idea of it's appearance.
Considering the selection of oil-based "commercial grade" or "industrial" paints available at hardware stores in my area, it was the closest match I could find. The "Safety Blue" is definitely a closer match than the Rustoleum "Sail" or "Royal" Blues.
 

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ShoestringMariner

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Thanks, I just saw that on your thread. I’ve got some leftover PPG ALK200 which I might try. Safety blue is a nice bright colour
 

PlayD0h

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Where abouts do you live? And did you order rivets yet? I’m going to need some more possibly and also a Canuck.
 

ShoestringMariner

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I did and they came in early this week. If you need a small amount let me know, I might have a few to spare and drop in the mail.

And yes, fellow Canuck here...I live in the “Province of Stress” (Ontario). But as much as S. Ont is a rat race, there’s an abundance of lakes and rivers to play in. No jaw dropping mountain scenery like you have out there...Killarney Provincial Park is about the best we have (which is beautiful for Ontario however, but they are no mountains)
 

PlayD0h

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I did and they came in early this week. If you need a small amount let me know, I might have a few to spare and drop in the mail.

And yes, fellow Canuck here...I live in the “Province of Stress” (Ontario). But as much as S. Ont is a rat race, there’s an abundance of lakes and rivers to play in. No jaw dropping mountain scenery like you have out there...Killarney Provincial Park is about the best we have (which is beautiful for Ontario however, but they are no mountains)

Abundance of lakes, there’s an understatement lol. I’d give up all the mountains for a lake with Bass. I’ve never even seen a bass in person other than the tank at Bass pros. How sad is that. There’s a lake or 2 in southern BC that allegedly have bass though.

I’ll probably be able to make due with what I have, just Jaycee messed my order a lil bit and will give me a discount on shipping next time. It’s retarded how crossing the boarder costs so much in shipping, and that UPS scam is a joke. I got Jaycee to ship USPS also.

Ill end up with 75 extras of about half my ordered rivet sizes, and short on a couple. lol. I’d like to do up a list and maybe add it to WaterMans rivet post, noting how many of each a 16’ will need. And a few other details I had to figure out.

if you need any solids let me know since I have a lot I’ll never use. Yet I’d guess you’ll have the same when your done.
 

ShoestringMariner

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Abundance of lakes, there’s an understatement lol. I’d give up all the mountains for a lake with Bass. I’ve never even seen a bass in person other than the tank at Bass pros. How sad is that. There’s a lake or 2 in southern BC that allegedly have bass though.

I’ll probably be able to make due with what I have, just Jaycee messed my order a lil bit and will give me a discount on shipping next time. It’s retarded how crossing the boarder costs so much in shipping, and that UPS scam is a joke. I got Jaycee to ship USPS also.

Ill end up with 75 extras of about half my ordered rivet sizes, and short on a couple. lol. I’d like to do up a list and maybe add it to WaterMans rivet post, noting how many of each a 16’ will need. And a few other details I had to figure out.

if you need any solids let me know since I have a lot I’ll never use. Yet I’d guess you’ll have the same when your done.

NO Bass?? Wow, I had no idea they weren't a species out there. They are scrappy fighters. Don't much like the taste

How about Pike or Muskie? Walleye/Pickerel?

I was disappointed with McMaster Carr. They were cheaper/better quantities than Jay-Cee but then it turned out they don't ship to personal addresses, or at least not North of the border. I had to cancel the order. Jay-Cee kicked out the order quickly and I was pleased with their communication and quick service. Sorry to hear you had an oops but sounds like they are standing up for it.

The next time I need solids, I'm going to try Spae-naur out of Kitchener Ont. The only reason I didn't, is because I wanted to make sure the setting tool was the right radius for the rivets I ordered.They didn't have the stock on the tool and it was special order, so I decided to pony up and go right to the rivet pros. The Spae-naur catalogue really hasn't been updated since the 50's it seems but they do have some stock and they ship nation wide. I live nearby, so I just pick them up at the counter. They have some great, hard to find product. (All types of fasteners, latches, grommets, weather seals, hinge etc...no, I don't work there)

But to be honest, I've noticed a lot of rivets underneath that don't look so hot. I really cant see me replacing a TON of them.
When I strip and roll it over this fall, I'll be taking a close look at what NEEDS replacing, and what I'll risk leaving. This weekends foray with solid rivet installation will tell me if I am going to continue with solids or not. (It just might come down to select replacement with closed end, blind rivets).
 

PlayD0h

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Pike, walleye a plenty. Pike up to 30 pounds in a few spots south of Edmonton, and monsters more plentiful in the north. Perch, trout of every kind including mammoth Lakers, burbot and whites. There’s a few spots with sturgeon up to ten feet, and the odd goldeye, sauger, charr and maybe a couple more I can’t think of.

Walleyes are the main target, but only a couple lakes where you can keep 1 or 2. There’s about a half dozen lakes that open draws for keepers. It’s like $15 for 2 tags. That’s the price we’re paying for our grandfathers bucket loads. There used to be tons of Perch in lots of lakes, but now there’s maybe less than 20 with populations, and most of them stay small since the walleye and pike keep them from growing too big, or their populations from returning to their former state.

Solid rivets are easy. It takes a couple to get the hang of it, then it takes 30 seconds to set one. You’ll want a decent helper, not because it’s hard work, but because if their not very handy it can be frustrating to deal with. My wife and my brother couldn’t seem to hold the damn bucking bar level with the hull.

Get some good ear plugs. And practice on some scrap. Dip or cover each rivet with 5200. Turn your air hammer air psi down to like 50-60. Do semi short bursts.

Personally Id used SS bolts before blind rivets. I even replaced some of my mid knee brace rivets with pan head bolts. Canadian Tire has them in their bolt drawer thing, but a good bolt shop will be cheaper and have more sizes.
 

ShoestringMariner

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Well it sounds like you have plenty of other opportunities. I've heard of the monster Northerns and trout out that way. Fishing shows where every fish looks trophy sized. (if it was me, it would be hammer handle pike and sunfish lol)

Thanks for the pressure and bucking bar tip. Dang, I know there was something I was forgetting...I was supposed to make a bucking bar at the shop before I left for the weekend. (1/2hr away). I guess I'll see if I can cobble one up out of my scrap bits. I've got pieces of flatbar that I can laminate together. I'm working in the tight radius corner of the transom, so I think I'd have to cobble something up anyway.

Agreed about the bolts supply being much better. There's a lot of them in our area and they are quite good for much more than hardware. Also great for drill bits, hand tools and general shop supplies. Not so good for solid rivets though. We have a farm supply chain called TSC (tractor supply co) out here which has similar stock to a typical farm co-op. They have a similar hardware drawer set up as CT. Good, but you have to pay more for the "pre-packaged" quantities. Good if you need it on a weekend.

And, man, you get up REALLY early. You're like 2 hours behind us??
 

ShoestringMariner

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For paint, I think I'm going to go in between safety blue and sky blue with something like this.
 

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ShoestringMariner

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Major, major setback today.
I tried installing the drain tubes that I ordered. They look a little long but I had a spare so I thought I’d try it. They were easy to remove so I thought I’d see what happened to the flare.

Well, the flare didn’t work out and it buckled inside the tube. No big deal right?

Wrong, I buckled up the tube with a screwdriver and started to push it back out. And I got a little overzealous. Admiral had me running all over the province on a fun tour today. But after a 60 hour work week I was really Jonesing to get into the garage... and I got a little rammy.

yup, I messed up my new transom really good. I don’t know what I was thinking but now I’m thinking about cladding the whole darn thing in aluminum. I am not making another wooden one.

I tell you, I was mad as a hatter. Ruined my entire day
 

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classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
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Stuff happens SsM!

fetch


No need to throw the baby out with the bathwater!

Seal the exposed wood, backfill with thickened epoxy then paint the transom wood if you want to hide the repair.
 

Watermann

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Yeah that sort of splintering happens from time to time with plywood. If you wan't, JB Water Weld epoxy sticks like mad to wood and isn't runny being a stick. Then sand and paint over to cover repairs. I've done it on my transoms and even paint them when not even visible. I went to using the 2 piece plastic drain tubes because of the flaring difficulties of the past.
 

ShoestringMariner

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classiccat Watermann , thanks for that. I had some marine Tex on hand, so I put some on before I packed it in. I’ll find out shortly if that will work.
I woke up concerned that the aluminum drain tube would not compress into that material the same way it will compress into the ply. I have one spare tube left so I’m going to try it and worst-case scenario, I will replace the transom or clad it with thin sheet aluminum. It’s going to be painted one way or another anyway.
 

ShoestringMariner

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And of course I don’t think I added enough hardener... it was 20° C or 68° F in my garage overnight, So I would’ve thought it would be well cured by now.

I’ve laid it out on the deck in the sun. If it hasn’t kicked in a few hours, I think I’m going to have to dig it out and do it again.
 

ShoestringMariner

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Yeah that sort of splintering happens from time to time with plywood. If you wan't, JB Water Weld epoxy sticks like mad to wood and isn't runny being a stick. Then sand and paint over to cover repairs. I've done it on my transoms and even paint them when not even visible. I went to using the 2 piece plastic drain tubes because of the flaring difficulties of the past.

Hey, what did you find worked best with the aluminum tubes as far as projection through the transom before forming? 1/4 or 3/16?
 

Watermann

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1/4" I think it was and be sure to put the end already flared on the inside against the wood, then flare the outside end of the tube against the AL.

Marine tex will work fine and yeah I've had to scrape it off before :lol:
 

ShoestringMariner

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1/4" I think it was and be sure to put the end already flared on the inside against the wood, then flare the outside end of the tube against the AL.

Marine tex will work fine and yeah I've had to scrape it off before :lol:

Thanks. Appreciate the tip about the pre flared end against the wood. I would’ve done it the other way around assuming that it would form the flare around the wood better.

I think I’m going to switch to water weld. I don’t want to risk wasting the rest of this (expensive) marine Tex on another hardener blunder.
 
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