Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

[Watermann]

CMC unit needs a clamp adapter
if anyone can furnish measurements, that would be great. If not, I’ll wing it

I had the clamp adapter for my 79 Merc and still had to add a 1/2"+ spacer I made.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I had the clamp adapter for my 79 Merc and still had to add a 1/2"+ spacer I made.

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Thanks, to take up the thickness in the throat of the clamp?

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Oops duplicate - deleted

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I had the clamp adapter for my 79 Merc and still had to add a 1/2"+ spacer I made.

before I get to making spacers, how did you handle the lower mounts through the transom. The unit I have has two long slots. I see this as problematic for water intrusion.

I like the idea of a bolt and washer passing through a hole, where the washer seals against the plate. The slot allows water direct access to where the bolt passes through the hull.

Did you mount yours on a pad of neoprene or anything?

 

[Watermann]

No you don't want anything like that in between the CMC and the transom, bolt up solid.

5200 in the bolt hole will seal up just fine, even with just the motor mounted direct there's no direct washer and bolt surface to seal.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

New laminated transom waiting for sealer. I’m not spending the money on marine plywood, as I believe the manufacturer did not. I’m on the fence with whether to use the spar varnish I have on hand or go with epoxy. Again, I don’t think the manufacturer even sealed the original wood. This boat will rarely see the elements. It will be trailer stored under a cover or lean to.

What do you guys think?

 

[ShoestringMariner]

And a few more questions for you Starcraft Pros;

1) what is a good sealant for the splashwell to transom? Butyl tape?
2) what do you guys use for caulking once it’s reassembled? I would imagine it must be impervious to the odd bit of gasoline

 

[Watermann]

Spar is fine, test fit drill through holes, then seal so the holes get some spar too.

I haven't used anything in the SW / transom mating surface but I did use 5200 in the seam. Put frog tape on either side, lay the bead, use an edging tool to smooth it out and force it in. When done pull tape and walk away with no mess.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Question about transom replacement

Hey folks, I’m replacing the transom on my 1976 Starcraft aluminum boat. The question I have pertains to the bolts and drain tubes passing through the new plywood. Should I drill clearance holes for the drains and bolts so that I can varnish inside the passage and leave room for 3M5200?

Or or am I overthinking this?
Im using the aluminum tubes and glaring tool

 

[Redtruck12]

I drilled slightly oversized and then coated all my holes with poly resin AND 3M 4200 when the bolts went in.
Min my opinion, when it comes to keeping water out, you cannot overthink it

 

[GA_Boater]

Shoe - keep all your questions in one thread. Asking in the general Resto section isn't doing you or us any favors.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Shoe - keep all your questions in one thread. Asking in the general Resto section isn't doing you or us any favors.

Thanks, my question was not brand specific though. I figured the traffic was better than this thread and because my project is neither original or special, I didn’t want my question to get lost in thread. I’m trying to get this back in the water asap

 

[Watermann]

Hey folks, I’m replacing the transom on my 1976 Starcraft aluminum boat. The question I have pertains to the bolts and drain tubes passing through the new plywood. Should I drill clearance holes for the drains and bolts so that I can varnish inside the passage and leave room for 3M5200?

Or or am I overthinking this?
Im using the aluminum tubes and glaring tool

I drilled my holes square through using a drill guide in the exact size needed for the bolts and drain tubes and got the sealer in the holes as well when sealing the transom There's plenty of room for the 5200 to seal up around them.

Not sure how much experience you have with 5200 but more is not better when it comes to that stuff. I use a screwdriver to slather a light layer of 5200 inside the holes before inserting the bolts and then wipe off the excess on the inside once through. Over drilling and adding stuff to the inside of holes is if you ask me, just making an unnecessary point of possible failure.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I drilled my holes square through using a drill guide in the exact size needed for the bolts and drain tubes and got the sealer in the holes as well when sealing the transom There's plenty of room for the 5200 to seal up around them.

Not sure how much experience you have with 5200 but more is not better when it comes to that stuff. I use a screwdriver to slather a light layer of 5200 inside the holes before inserting the bolts and then wipe off the excess on the inside once through. Over drilling and adding stuff to the inside of holes is if you ask me, just making an unnecessary point of possible failure.

Thanks. When I dry tested my drain tubes, they were what I’d call “friction fit” and I assumed this friction would shear any sealant off as they were inserted. But you make a good point of possible failure/reliance on your sealer product vs a tight fit being first method of leak control.

 

[Watermann]

The flared end of the tube will have plenty of surface area inside and out to seal out the water and any that stays on the tube or hole will take up any empty space. Remember taking the tubes and bolts out? The factory or rigger put nothing on them to seal it up so...

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Remember taking the tubes and bolts out? The factory or rigger put nothing on them to seal it up so...

Actually, you’re right, the majority of the rot was in the upper wings and adjoining areas. The whole main piece is waterlogged, but looked worse on the side that faced the inner transom skin. So I think the source of water intrusion came from the ends of the gunnels, which would of poured water right onto the exposed end of the plywood making it a sponge. Plus flowing whatever other water got in down to the other cut edges.

So in short, I will be pay special attention to seal the edges really well.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Some pretty bad wiring in this old Merc. Home mechanic that looked at it last said “don’t touch the wiring”

Well I touched it and it crumbled.

I’m surprised that I didn’t have a fire with this motor. I fired it up last week before removal and this silly little fuel supply hose was shooting fuel all over like a squirt gun. Good luck to me finding this item at my local shop. Probably have to make one

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Need to order some solid rivets for the transom to hull connections seam. Anyone have any luck with the closed end blind rivets? I’d rather keep this a 1 person project

 

[Watermann]

Location on the seam and how many?

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Transom corners...and likely a few underneath on ribs.
Leaning towards 2117T4 solids.
several dozen this round to do right. Probably worth investing in a setter and pneumatic hammer

yes, I know the pitting is horrendous. But it’s the wreck I’ve got..