Sea Nymph Redo?

[bonz_d]

Thanks, that pcs was actually a salvage from another that didn't survive, though the stainless was a freebie. I just wish it were a lighter gage or Aluminum. Thing is, I can lay it out, cut it up, bend it but can't weld it. Used to work with that stull all the time while I was still working.

Fitting the plywood and then trimming the stainless to fit has about worn me out for the day. Hope to get holes drilled tomorrow and some more fitting.

One more thing. I think all this stainless weighs more than all that foam I took out.. Even though it was wet on the bottom it wasn't that heavy.

 

[bonz_d]

Looking for suggestions here. For now I have everything assembled and mocked up, nothing has been fastened yet. My question is in regards as to how to finish off the inside of this transom because as you can see there is a gap between the pcs of original aluminum and the stainless that I was going to add on the inside.

Ideas so far are to either remove the aluminum, remove the stainless and the aluminum and leave the plywood exposed or find another strip to cover the gap. Also that the top of the transom there currently is a 1/2" overhang of the stainless that is covering the top and the outside. I can cut this off but it probably will not be pretty as I'll have to do this with a cutoff wheel as I lost access to the shear now that I'm not working. My other thought is to remove the metal covers inside and add another pcs of 1/2" ply.

Lastly with only a 1.25" thick transom the motor clamps are almost bottomed out though they do get tight.

 

[Woodonglass]

Ifn' it were me...I'd be slappn' some Old Timers Recipe on some plywood and then usin some Polyurethane adhesive to glue it onto that SS addition so that motor would have some better clampin ability! But... you gotta consider the source of this advice!!!!:facepalm:

 

[bonz_d]

Yeah I was thinking I could remove the aluminum pcs because it's really not adding anything as far as strength. Then I could add a pcs. of plywood under that SS, cutting it to fit the whole length and then down to the top of the seat and that tiny Splashwell.

As it is that transom is rock solid.

 

[64osby]

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...hull-repair/534350-14-lone-star-repairs/page4

Posts 53 and 54 show a couple pieces I added to my tinny transom. The outside is a piece of door sill and the inside is a back of a bleacher seat.

Might give you an idea or two.

 

[bonz_d]

One of the perks to my old job was I would have been able to come up with another pcs. of stainless that would have covered that whole area. It was unbelievable what they would scrap. As Fleetwood Mac once sang, "Oh Well". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN4FMVqq1cg

Thinking I want to keep this as simple as possible w/o adding a lot of layers and pieces. Yet I still want it to look finished.

At the same time I'm really itchin to get this on the water to test this transom and to see if it's the right height. As best I can tell with the engine mounted on it the cavitation plate is still 1/4" below the bottom.

 

[fishin98]

Fill the space....then find a piece of composite material, affix it to the transom plate then screw the engine clamps down. Your engine height looks fine. I'm redoing a 1988 Alumacrat Lunker 14v. My long shaft 2007 Merc 5hp 4str long shaft, fits perfectly, just pickup a 1999 Merc 15hp long shaft that came off a sailboat. it will work just fine. The height of my transom is 20" from bottom to the top.

 

[bonz_d]

fishin98, thanks for the input. 1st of all I don't believe a 15hp would be enough engine for this boat. It's actually heavier than it looks. Next there is something strange going on here as I've had this engine mounted to just shy of 22" and was still getting a splash from the lower unit being too deep. Which is why I'm anxious to see if the changes made have corrected this problem.

The Lunker 14 is a nice boat. I was actually looking for one until I found this Sea Nymph. It is very similar to the Classic 16 which I also have and is pictured in my signature only it's 2' shorter, lighter and requires less HP.

 

[fishin98]

I've been following yours and others threads with interest. This is picture of my rig...took these pictures the morning after I got back to Fla from WI. You can't hardly find these types of boats down here. When I sold my Bayliner Capri, back in April, I told the wife I was going to get a small boat to fish the local lakes here in Fla, with the occasional trip to Center Hill and Dale Hollow lakes in TN. She insisted that I get one like my Sylvan Sea Monster or the SmokerCraft Alaskan I had when we lived up in the UP....I paid $750 for the Alumnacraft, up near Waupaca. Notice how high my transom is, hence the requirement for a long shaft motor. That is why I'm sort of puzzled with the issue your having.

Right now the boat is gutted,off trl in the back garage, waiting for the trl to be sand blasted and primed.

 

[bonz_d]

That will be a nice lil fishing platform when finished. Got a thread started on it?

If you look at yours from the transom you will see a slight V to the bottom. The Sea Nymph the bottom is flat. I do believe your Alumacraft is also deeper than the Nymph with a slightly higher freeboard. Next, measure your transom to the deepest part of the V bottom and let me know what you find.

 

[fishin98]

Will do....will start the thread when I get the trailer sand blasted, painted and the boat back on the trl.

 

[bonz_d]

Well I couldn't hold out any longer, had to water test it. 1st I have to say that new transom is solid as a rock. I think it's even more so than the original.

Boat performed very well, seems to get up faster than before, handles the turns very solidly and even the shallow water drive is usable again. There is still spray coming off the deflection plate and the Cavitation plate still looks low in the water stream at planning speed but it is still better than it was. I think I will leave the transom at this height and now just try to shim the motor up some. I feel I've got about 3/8" I can play with in moving this up.

So now I have to wonder if I'm seeing something that would be normal with the spray and this engine though I don't recall this when I had the Lund running a 35hp Evinrude on it. I'll have to have lil brother take me for a ride again and compare.

On to the next phase. I'll strip it all out, finish up this transom and start cleaning it up and getting it ready for some new paint.

I may be able to get some fall fishing in after-all!!!!

 

[fishin98]

Good for you! Took a picture of my transom height on my Lunker

 

[bonz_d]

That looks pretty standard. Right now this one measures 21.5
I just put a 1/4" shim under it and now the cavitation plate is just about even with the bottom. Now if the wind will subside I'll give'r another try. I now wish I had remembered to bring these shims with me yesterday while it was still in the water.

 

[bonz_d]

Ran the boat again today. This time with a 1/4" shim under the engine. This didn't eliminate the spray from the engine at all. No change was noticed. I even tried changing the trim angle with no effect. Though while it was trimmed to the second hole I did start to get prop blowout at WOT though not while in the 1st hole. So I'm now just guessing that this spray I'm generating is just the nature of the beast.

I will say that WOT in this thing for it's size is fast and somewhere between 3/4 or 4/5 throttle seams just right depending on the water chop..

So now I will move on from this issue and start phase 2 to clean it up and get ready for paint.

 

[bonz_d]

Testing paint


starting point


Etching primer


Two coats

 

[bonz_d]

Well it's been a while and has also taken a while but here it is. Still have a few touch-up to do.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Looking good Bonz!

I don't like painting but also can't wait to get to that point as that seems when you get the biggest visual reward in this process.

 

[Woodonglass]

OH YEAH!!!!:thumb:

 

[bonz_d]

Nothing fancy, nothing special other than the paint itself. Turned out about as well as I expected though in the bright sun there are a couple spots that I can still see roller marks. Hope to get a few more decent days to finish up with a couple of those touch-up spots. Then the exterior is going to have to wait till spring unless I can move the other boat out of the garage and get it covered.

The biggest test is going to be long term durability of this latex paint. Though from talking with a Rustoleum rep he doesn't think there will be a problem. The one thing to remember about this paint and it being a latex product is that it takes longer to fully cure but I think that by next spring that shouldn't be a problem.