Rehab SportCraft 222 1983 deep V hull cuddy walkaround

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Rofl at fact fetting was actually a word hahaha , great looking work man moving right along eh? i prefer the metal as well but then i also fear the metal, plastic lasted 30 yrs on this boat im good with plastic in some areas as at least i know it wont corrrode :) if i recall you also want to somehow ground all those metal fittings .

Poop... I hope not!? Well time to ask for help on that subject. Anyone have any suggestions in regards to grounding those fittings? I taking a guess and saying no. But will check it out!
 

nurseman

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Jun 2, 2013
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Interesting article Kevin. I was always under the impression that the bonding / anode setup was more for salt water. Do you know if boats that live in fresh water only need to do the same thing?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,927
Galvanic Corrosion most commonly occurs on saltwater boats but...

Galvanic corrosion : Corrosion that occurs at the anode of a galvanic cell.

You may remember high school chemistry class where a battery was created by connecting two dissimilar metals with wire and immersing the whole contraption in salted water thereby activating magnetic fields and starting an electrochemical process causing current to flow.


[SIZE=+1]On a boat with bronze, aluminum, galvanized and stainless steel that are connected with bonding wires or simply touching each other and immersed in the lake...... you accomplish the same thing. The more noble metal is the "cathode", the less noble, the "anode". In this process the less noble metal gives up electrons to the more noble thus weakening the metal, otherwise known as "galvanic corrosion".[/SIZE]

[SIZE=+1]The "sacrificial" anodes on your shafts, trim tabs etc. are supposed to sacrifice themselves thereby protecting expensive metal parts. This is why it's important to keep your anodes in good condition and never paint them.[/SIZE][SIZE=+1] let's never refer to anodes as "zincs" as anodes come in three basic materials for different water conditions i.e. Aluminum alloy, and magnesium for fresh and brackish water or zinc for salt water. This topic deserves a little more attention on it's own so take a look at [/SIZE][SIZE=+1]Zincs, Aluminum and Magnesium Anodes.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=+1]A vessel suffering from galvanic corrosion is usually the source of it's own problem, although two vessel's linked by shore power grounds can create a galvanic cell between two very close boats.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=+1]2. Electrolytic Corrosion (commonly referred to as stray current corrosion) : Corrosion that results from an electrical source causing a metal in contact with an electrolyte (water) to become anodic with respect to some other metal in the same electrolyte.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=+1]In simple terms a wire touches something it shouldn't, like a faulty bilge pump float or degraded wiring lying in the bilge sending current into the water, causing one metal to give up electrons and corrode. Again any vessel suffering from this type of corrosion is likely the master of it's own disaster but the culprit could also be a neighboring vessel. This type of corrosion can can eat metals at an alarming rate.[/SIZE][SIZE=+2] [/SIZE][SIZE=+1]I know of one 42' motoryacht that lost both shafts, both rudders and both propellers in a space of less than two weeks.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=+1]Complicating this picture somewhat is the fact that DC can be super-imposed on your AC wiring through the common ground on board or the ground in the shore power pedestal we all share on the dock. As all vessels in the marina are connected through shorepower grounds there is potential for widespread damage. Aside from concerns of corrosion there is also potential for electrocution if shorepower cords are allowed to lie in the water let alone the fools that leave their shorepower cord plugged in at the dock while they go out for an afternoon cruise.

Recent tests have shown that AC current from shorepower in the water can also cause corrosion to underwater parts although at a much slower rate than DC. This has been a long argued issue by people who know a lot more about this than me. Ground fault protection systems, galvanic isolators, isolation transformers and impressed current systems are some of the various methods attempting to combat corrosion.

Salt water is generally regarded as a more serious breeding ground for marine corrosion as the salt makes the water more conductive however, polluted fresh water can be even more conductive with the right contaminants.
[/SIZE]
 

kcassells

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Soooo I think what you are saying is to ground out my couple of metal drain fittings. ?
Small headache...been up too long. I'll do whatever I need to do but need to understand the science better. I know it's relevant particularly in salt water.
Started to fill in the transom holes with fiberglassed pb. and thru hull penetration for baitwell/washdown. Everything I see says ground it out and then some. I'm good with that.
 
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kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Interesting article Kevin. I was always under the impression that the bonding / anode setup was more for salt water. Do you know if boats that live in fresh water only need to do the same thing?

I'm on a learning curve too at this point but Mike makes some good points in his article based on fresh water issues.
. Great hearing from you!
Blame it on the Mick! Love that ole' fart. :D
 

kcassells

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Hey thanks to all for keeping up with my questions and your input! You are all the Best!
KC
 

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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i was a electrician previous to my carrier as a gigolo :)
anyways i deal with bonding every day on swimming pools , folks don't believe me when i say they invented the expotential grid around pools from figuring out stray voltage in Florida was causing cows not to produce milk and chicken not to lay eggs first farming industry figured it out basically fpl uses earth ground so at any time you can have stray voltage running around , i learned fast about boats and fittings , odd thing is if cows and chickens had problems i wonder if this isn't whats causing male sperm count to be so low since folks go barefoot a ton in Florida ... hmm
 

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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btw you can hose clamp a lug onto the ss and then use a copper wire to it lugs dirt cheap at home depot , i would also cover the lug with a compound called potting compound , or you could use eeeeeeeepoxy most likely as well to keep the connection from corroding:)
 

kcassells

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So I can only say about the benefits of the multi-tool. Ridgid/electric/no battery. The applications for boats are insane. First and formost the cutting, grinding and leveling with NO dust.
In addition there are so many tool attachments for tough to get at spots. Accessories also include diamond faced components for elcheapo costs. You can get an assortment pak for like $10.00
multi 1.jpgmulti 2.jpg
multi 3.jpgmulti 5.jpg
 

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mickyryan

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only tool i use anymore mostly except grinder to knock down after i have cut off with that tool, makes stringers go way faster:)
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 2, 2015
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597
No dust with flying with that tool? I may have to order the corded version. I purchased a makita 1.5 inch belted sander for sanding small hard to get to areas and found myself using it for large areas because the dust is not all over the place. It would be even better with the vacuum hooked to the underside of it. I am all for the less clean-up and minus the white suit (sweating like hell). Now I know "grind in the winter time".
 

kcassells

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So haven't stopped just been diddlin and .....
Used some of the pre-fabbed glass 1/8" sheets my neighbor gave me for leveling low spots. Seems to work pretty well. Started banging away at the access hatch. Gonna put a 1.5" lid on it at the end of the day for better access to batteries. Fitted fishwell with thru hull stainless and creeping forward.
Nice and hot today.
Celebrating wifes 21st birthday again...Turkey going in the oven.:joyous:

deck hatch 1.jpgdeck hatch 2.jpgdeck hatch 3.jpgdeck hatch 4.jpgdeck hatch 5.jpg
 
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