Rehab SportCraft 222 1983 deep V hull cuddy walkaround

kcassells

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I found a great video/original by omc , makes complete sense of the lync and sync process required for these engines.
Linkage Adjustments: 1988 crossflow and Newer V4 V6
A must have for anyone with a looper.

 

kcassells

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Ok let's see what's going on. last of the orifices showed up today. Swapped them out. Worked last couple days making templates, fitting and adding fabric. Back of fabrics is plastic board stuff, Ultra light.
Used "Alien tape" for template adhesion. A 2 sided tape, 1" wide and double sided. Best is it is so easy to pull off plastic tape and not have to have a battle doing that. Sticky as heck so on next template will not need as much for template support. Plus side is it's easy to remove. So panel install will be options of velcro, tape or sink mounts.
Tape

Sink mounts, then finish with cap.

window template 1.jpg Fabric.jpg window template transfer.jpg Window panel waiting for install.JPG

Also used this for templating. No more cardboard or wood required. It is actually 2" wide and works great with hot glue.
 

kcassells

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Looking good! And it’s super light… great idea …..What’s the fabric?
Marine vinyl from the co. below. Great customer service and fast ship. My color is an offwhite.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Use z-clips and 1-1/4" x 3/4 slots in the substrate to mount the panels if you don't want to see hardware
 

kcassells

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I received the 1/4" foam today. I'm going forward as a backer for the perforated vinyl.
@zool the foam helps to eliminate any imperfections either on the exposed fiberglass interior or on the template I make. Probably go back and do the 1st one after I see how this comes out.
Pics coming.
Waiting on a replacement fuel primer solenoid choke device. Still having issues getting my idle down from 2500 rpms on start.
 

kcassells

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Got busy on outboard. Chased out an air leak behind carburetors plate. Got into the reeds also. So new reeds, gaskets and rebuild. Carb 2 wouldn't stop spitting out some fuel. Ended up going with the Boyesen reeds #166 for replacement.
Some interior cuddy fabric. too.
carbs1.jpg

carbs 2.jpg

reeds 1.jpg

reeds 2.jpg
 

kcassells

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The issues are mostly at carb 2 top left. Reed seems to be ok my minds eye wanted it to be so obvious. What I have found is the most small prime fuel lines are rotted/soft and had no straps on them.
I'm finding blocked ports and drain holes on reed side of work. My idea of buying reeds prior to seeing actual conditions were that I just don't want to go back there again after assembly. Some gaskets around the reeds are also suspect.
Too many little issues that I found as a result of disassembly may be the culmination of my problem.
Again though there was an identified leak on the reed plate around carb 2 so I had to get to that also and will install new gasket on the plate.
Pretty amazing about all the engineering that went into this motor.
 

kcassells

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So I've been working on the Johnson Engine forum and a lot of great guys helping out. End result is no luck taming the beast down from idle of 3000 to 900 rpms/hose. Going to tuck her away, clean up interior, look for another engine, finish interior.
My goal was to float this summer but yo hey oh well.
I'll keep posting on interior pretty lip stick stuff.
Froggy sucks! Hows your engine making out?

Me, running high. Can't get piggy below 3000 rpms.

View attachment runin high.MOV
 

kcassells

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That does not sound like 3,000. Check the setting on the back of the tach. Try a different number of pulses.
I will put my tach on it for a true reading. No clue though what you mean
about trying other pulses.
Oh geez Now I remember that. What would that do. Gosh if it were that simple I'll owe you a case of whatever. As long as its reasonable.
Heck I was just looking at alternative import mfg's and getting slightly not
happy.
Thanks!
 
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