Rehab SportCraft 222 1983 deep V hull cuddy walkaround

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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So I picked a used atwood 6 gal tank to run engine. I tank expanded on a hot day and seemed to force fuel into the lower carbs. My mech. called it something like "Hydro lock" whereas their is so much pressure locked in the carbs the flywheel will not rotate. Hence starting issues earlier and other mad men things. Pulled plugs on lower 2 carbs and fuel just blew out as I turned the flywheel manually. Another learning curve. Here are some pics. Turn off the sound if you have young ones around.

View attachment hydro poop.MOV

rectifier.jpg Burned wires .jpg old connector broke wire.jpg
 

kcassells

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So I have some of these connectors on the engine and most of them fail as I try to pull them apart. They have tools to pull and insert as well as buying new rubber multi pin connectors. In my case I don't want to waste the time or money for the multi pin connectors. I would like to go back with insulated
bullet connectors. I don't see why not. Plus I would be able to wrap lines with heat covers or new harness tape. Oh yea installed the new rectifier/regulator.
Anyone have an opinion? Thanks.
@zool @mickyryan @chevymaher
Pics as an example of what I have;
wires 1.jpg old connector broke wire.jpg
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
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So I have some of these connectors on the engine and most of them fail as I try to pull them apart. They have tools to pull and insert as well as buying new rubber multi pin connectors. In my case I don't want to waste the time or money for the multi pin connectors. I would like to go back with insulated
bullet connectors. I don't see why not. Plus I would be able to wrap lines with heat covers or new harness tape. Oh yea installed the new rectifier/regulator.
Anyone have an opinion? Thanks.
@zool @mickyryan @chevymaher
Pics as an example of what I have;
View attachment 381561 View attachment 381562
Not sure what I'm looking at but waterproof bullet connectors would work fine
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
Those pin connectors are keyed to keep wired from crossing during repairs, but in general, the wires just need to connect, so, yes, you can bullet them, but mechanics may hate you later ;)
 

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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Now that I know the connectors you were referring to I'd go with replacement connectors or fix the ones you got , when I did ls conversion I figured out you can replace those pins in most multi connectors, or even buy a new one if needed and reinstall, in the spirit of making it easier to diagnose and factory appearance I'd go with original
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Now that I know the connectors you were referring to I'd go with replacement connectors or fix the ones you got , when I did ls conversion I figured out you can replace those pins in most multi connectors, or even buy a new one if needed and reinstall, in the spirit of making it easier to diagnose and factory appearance I'd go with original
I did end up buying various plug and play connectors but not the ones
that were original. They are dated and in addition require a whole new battery of tools special to that type.
Completed installing the new brp engine harness and also grabbed an omc analogue gauge harness.
Cleaning out the shed this morning and waiting on a omc starter I purchased. The starter the mechanic installed was a Sierra unit that failed. On a sad note his father has become ill so I'm not trying to bother him and pushing forward with the help of my neighbor. Crazy good guy and boat enthusiast.

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kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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View attachment 383275Cooking dinner and the little girly showed up!!!
As things do go on oooollldddd outboards starter worked fine but no engine turnover. {kick dog, kick goats, grab beer} I do have to say I surely did not want to learn out outboards, but this has become a forced issue. Costs too much $$ for a mechanic to get on it.
This ole girl is practically parts full rebuild. Next on the list try to figure out how to test the power packs. New they cost @ 150.00-200.00 .
Happy 4th guys!
 

kcassells

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Working away on the outboard. My buddy found timing was off. Readjustment and off she goes. With new harness installed tack and all gauges/check alarms are working fine. Idle is high and will move onto that tom. Might be rain all day we'll see. Clean up the boat interior from this job and get regrouped on cuddy and misc. stuff and lipstick.
When I received the new harness, I took it apart to check for any bad connections. Began installing and also tested engine for start as I moved along so I wouldn't have a big surprise at the end.

wired out 1.jpg
wired out 2.jpg
clean up 1.jpg
clean up 2.jpg
clean up 3.jpg
 

kcassells

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The goal this weekend is to look into outboard temps, clean deck area and also cuddy. Also need to lower idle. Current idle is 25-30 rpms off tach in neutral. Regarding temps I was pretty happy. Ran for .5 hrs with inter mingle high bursts. Temps held very good.
I want an additional visual, so I don't have to rely on the high temp alarm only. It involves a sender and gauge purchase.
Temps leveled around 125 deg or 135 deg. with 25-30 tack read,
depending on where I placed the thermostat. I had 2 stats in 2 different positions on the OB. Next purchase will be a unit that ties into one of the blind/drilled hole with a gauge to read up front.
Next clean up deck and cuddy to start cuddy walls vinyl finish.
Batteries are keeping a charge from engine which is great to see.

DASH RPM 7 22 23.jpg

View attachment ENGINE FOR HALF HR 7 22 23.MOV
 
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kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Geezz I got wrapped up with a possible new boat.
Seller says it has an old Johnson.
What do you think?
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