Rehab SportCraft 222 1983 deep V hull cuddy walkaround

zuluwarrior

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
109
Not much progress KC. Been working flat out and haven't had any real time to get on with it. Plus it's that time when all those lovely bills come in aka uni fees, home insurance, car insurance etc. etc. But have some vacay coming next month and will have some much needed supplies so work on the boat will be in full swing.

There is absolutely nothing about your present circumstances that prevent you from making progress, one step at a time!
 

veebus52

Cadet
Joined
May 20, 2015
Messages
9
Knocked out the other gunnel today. No pics cause same as the other side.
I will say though that Ridgid electric multi-tool did save me alot of work and safety. Lots of Bazzls! I couldn't have gotten into those areas safely with a grinder.
I did start with the grinder but the 28 stitches or so in my ankle and hand said " Yo stupid...get the right tool for the right job."
Washed out the rear hull and spray bleached it out to kill any molds.

I've been keeping up with your thread and am curious what you are going to do about the rotted wood that you have removed from the gunnels. I have the same issue on my 1963 Red Fish. The wood under the gunnels that runs around the inside perimeter is all rotten and needs to be removed. What I don't know is if it needs to be replaced and how to do it if it does. Great work so far!
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
There is absolutely nothing about your present circumstances that prevent you from making progress, one step at a time!


Hey Z,
Thank you for like always hiding in the background and supporting me from start to finish. One Day you and me will crack a beer and hook a fish! These boats are wonderful and at the same time a curse. The curse being there just isn't always enough time, enough ching ching or days in the week. I read some where from someone that it turns into a hobby, something that even the little things accomplished make you smile. :joyous:
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
I've been keeping up with your thread and am curious what you are going to do about the rotted wood that you have removed from the gunnels. I have the same issue on my 1963 Red Fish. The wood under the gunnels that runs around the inside perimeter is all rotten and needs to be removed. What I don't know is if it needs to be replaced and how to do it if it does. Great work so far!


Hi Veebus,
Thanks for the inquiry. I guess from the pics you can tell I removed all the glass and wood. I started with the grinder in those tight spots but was getting a little "hairy" in regards to safety for me. I eneded up buying that ridgid "ocillating" tool/electric with some metal cut blades. It did the dirty work I needed.
The next tool I had available to use was the small battery sawzall that has a flat blade attachment to go in and get rid of the "parkay" style wood. It did a nice job too.
-To really clean up the glass edges and wood chips left in the glass I used the grinder with the flapper disk. I couldn't see exactly what I was grinding but more "felt it" as I moved along.
Very happy with the results. I had to stop any number of times to look back up to see what the grinder action was doing.

I intend to;
-Fit back 3/4" ply that has been sealed. The area was pretty much made flat with the grinder so I don't have to go crazy about a template fit.
-Glass that pc.all sides prior to install.
-Cut out the areas where the poles go thru and fill with exaggerated pb. So when I do drill thru again the exposure will be to the pb and no wood.
-PB and clamp one way or another to the uinder side. Probably any number of ways to do this part.
-Glass underside again 2x
-then drill out the pole openings. thru the pb.
Hope this helps.
It looked like their was 1/2 or 3/8 ply prior.
Then properly reseal the existing or new pole holders with 5200 or pb where they screw in.
Did you set up a thread yet? Would like to follow along.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
Here's a question for the sages. Haven't done much on the boat lately do to whatever. I have to move it though. I want to attach the engine to the transom 225 johnson to move it a few blocks or maybe a few miles. That way I won't have to transport the engine seperately to the new location.
Problem is althought the transom is new and overbuilt I haven't had the chance yet to attach the rear boat stringers to the transom.
Looking for feedback...thanks.
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
If the inside is tabbed and glassed, you should be ok, but for good measure, I would probably ties some tight spring lines from the tilted engine to forward cleats, to relieve some of the stress....
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
Just wanted to reach out to everyone and say......Happy Thanksgiving and the coming holidays! Thank you everyone. Still kickin but alittle slower.
KC
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
Spent most of the early day clearing out the tool s from the cuddy. Moved to basement. It's amazing how many tools you get to rehab a boat in addition to my regular plumbing biz. Vacuaming the freakin leaves and acorns from the other/old house location. Began wondering my best approach to seal and protect das boot for da winter.
Pretty much resolved to focus on more teak work from the boat and do a lot more reading up on the Johnson vro 225. Prep, prep, prep. Kick some butt in spring.
Best to all
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
Hey Everyone,
I know you think I've been snoozing on the job but finally made the new move, new job and getting sttled in. Boats in the yard.
Gots a couple of questions for all. As I said earlier I've been cursed with trying to use the existing aluminum frame to add a hard top. Problem is I have no windshield so that would have to be made. On the other side of the curse I really would like to build a Pilot house, lose the aluminum frame and move on.
So my questions are in regards to windows. I've looked at a couple of mfg's and the materials they present.
I was wondering what one materials benefit would be over the other in regards to todays products. This being cost, mainteneance and replacement. Stationary and sliding/tilt.

The windows/glazes are available in; Note...these are comments from a boat window mfg.

Laminated ? Basic safety glass. All modern car windshields have laminated glass.
Tempered ? More expensive than laminated. Like the side window in your car. Stronger than laminated.
Polycarbonate ? Most people call this Lexan. Unbreakable plastic. Scratches easy.
Acrylic ? ? Plexiglas? Sheet plastic. Will break. Will scratch. Will burn.

Thanks, kc
 

ahmincha

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
1,512
Glad to hear your settling in kc
I would think you could order window sashes from a window company it could also be tempered fairly cheap. Also maybe used car windows from a junkyard older f series trucks use flat glass thats tempered.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
Funny you say that Minch. Was one of my thoughts too. Then I would need to find gasket material to fit the opening. I don't think too hard though. The other windows I was looking at come with aluminum frames fir to the openings I make.
Thanks!
 

Mikeopsycho

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
738
I replaced the side windows in my boat with tempered, tinted glass. I don't remember the actual cost, (this was a few years ago), but my wife and I were surprised at how inexpensive it was. We had put up with the old chipped windows for a long time thinking new glass would be expensive. I also used tinted, tempered glass to replace the starboard side of the windshield when I broke it while trying to remove it to reseal, and again was pleased with the affordability of the glass. This was for glass only, I had all the frames.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
Thanks Mike, good to hear from you. I've been looking at the glass rubber installation kits and the aluminum frame kits. I'll start getting prices. Without a doubt the frammed units will cost more and I will be interested to see how much. Did you ever finish the interior of your cab all the way since last?
 

ahmincha

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
1,512
Remember one thing you cannot cut tempered glass So if you find some it stays that size
 
Top