Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

archbuilder

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Yes sir, love their coupons! Having two fenders is over rated lol. They only had one, ordered the other one. But this will work for laying out the mounting brackets.
 

GA_Boater

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One side of the trailer will fend for itself. :D

I've always felt that NT had a little higher quality than HF.
 

gm280

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One side of the trailer will fend for itself. :D

I've always felt that NT had a little higher quality than HF.

I have to agree with you on that as well. You REALLY need to watch what you buy at HF. You can get some okay things, but can easily get total junk as well. So knowing what you want and the quality is the only way to shop that place.

Arch, any goody run is a good thing in my book. :rockon:
 

sphelps

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NT has more trailer stuff than HF anyway ... Just no galvanized it seems ...
 

archbuilder

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I'm not a big HF fan. Call me a tool snob, but my Dad told me along time ago that broken tools cost you money, expensive tools that keep on working make you money. I don't use them for a living anymore, but I still subscribe to investing in good tools. One of my mentors explained it another way, "You see that Bridgeport mill? I bought that the same year I got married, 1975.......I still use the mill everyday, haven't seen my ex wife in 30 years.....buy good tools" lol! I'm not really big on Northern tools line, but I do think its better than anything at HF. I have their shear break and it has worked pretty well. I also have bought a lot of Milwaukee, Ingersol Rand, Jet and other quality tools from them. Good service and prices.

Haven't shopped HFs trailer stuff so I cant comment on that. I have been happy with all the trailer stuff I have purchased at Northern. Sam I actually bought a galvanized u-bolt kit for the axle there today. I also noticed some galvanized bunk mounts while I was looking around. But most of it does seem to be anodized.

So I spent this afternoon cursing. I got back from lunch and finished cleaning up the bearings and hardware....cleaned up the spindles a little better.....GRRRR someone spun the right inner bearing! It wasn't bad but gouged the bottom of the spindle where the bearing rides. Which probably explains the bad axle seal on that side. It would probably be ok for a utility trailer to haul the mower around, but it isn't going to work for an axle that gets submerged all the time.

I have a 2-1/2" drop axle, with the spring over it. I did see a drop axle at NT today, but it was a 4", which would have put the center of the wheel closer to the fender / frame. My idea is to keep the fender height about the same, maybe raising it up an inch or so at the most. This axle would have moved the center of the wheel 1-1/2" closer to the existing fender height. But the hub to hub was almost the same....the spring pads centers were off, but I can always cut them loose and move them. Then I realized that it was set up as a spring under, which would have moved the tire a lot higher. And I am planning on moving to larger 14" wheels / tires....so all of that leaves little room between the top of the tire and fender.

I looked around but can't find an axle that is even close on the hub to hub that I can get quickly. We are back to my finish the welding and paint this week schedule. So I resigned myself to calling trailer places tomorrow and thought about mounting the spring shackles. Its been a while since I mounted them and I remembered you have to get the geometry right...but couldn't recall what that meant. So I thought I would look in the shackle box to see if it had directions. No such luck, but I did realize that the new shackles would mount the springs about 1-3/4" lower (relative to the fenders) than the old ones. So that effectively lowers the wheel center. After doing more fuzzy math, I think that means I can use the 4" drop axle, converted to spring over, with the new shackles and get the center of the wheel about a 1/2" lower than the current axle, retaliative to the fender......my head hurts for some reason (and this is the simplified version lol).

I'm going to do the math in my head again tomorrow and if it works out, go buy a new axle and hubs!
 

Baylinerchuck

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I'm lucky enough to have a Nuera 2 miles from my house. Galvanized trailer axles can be hard to find....not to mention the freight costs!! Ugh!!
 

archbuilder

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Don't have one of those here Chuck....sounds interesting.

I just realized what is most frustrating about today, I fussed around in bearing grease for a few hours and didn't accomplish anything! But that does beat gear oil, I hate the way that stuff smells!
 

mickyryan

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I used to invest in really good tools till I found out in most instances they are made in the same factorys in china with different stamped names but all the same metal qualitys after that I'm good with cheap tools that break and I toss and grab another from local home depot :)
 

gm280

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mickyryan, lots of tools are made in China. But there once was a time when tools, good quality tools, were made here in America that would surpass any tool anywhere. But we went for CHEAP and those manufacturers were forced to close. However, there are still some quality tools out there, HF just isn't one of them. I understand your mindset of just throwing away a tool when it breaks and buy another cheap tool. But if the tools doesn't beak because you are using a quality tool, you get the job finished so much quicker. JMHO

Arch, building a trailer to suit your needs and wants gets interesting. I know I did the same things. But you will figure it out and make it work well. I've seen your work on these forums. However, you have to post pictures or it didn't happen.
 

archbuilder

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I'll have some pics GM.....right now its just me scratching my head lol. The 4" drop axle at Northern tool will work, but it will cut down the clearance 1" or so. I don't like that but unless I find a shorter drop axle today, I don't have much choice. I'll still have 8" of clearance, but a little more would be nice. A strait axle doesn't really work unless I want to raise up the trailer 6", which would make loading and unloading at a flat ramp really hard. So more than likely I will have pictures of a 4" drop axle later today, lol!
 

Patfromny

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You get what you pay for is my standard line. I always go for the better quality when necessary. I bought a small husky 1/4" Rachel set for the trucks general tool bag. For when I need a size for a/c vents or the such. Well, I found out the hard way that this 10 dollar assortment in a hard case was every bit of the 10 bucks. The socket sizes weren't accurate enough for me. They would take the nut or screw off but not without some damage. I bought a craftsman set and left the husky set for the metal guy. I hope he didn't take them and use them. Lol I find that with most tools, the more you pay, the better they are. As a painter/ finish contractor I find that the more you spend on roller covers, brushes, spackle knives, extension poles, ladders, saw blades, etc. The more you get. I run my business with the attitude , "good enough is never good enough" if you say that that's good enough, it means you can see room for improvement. Why leave something where you can see room for improvement? That is how I feel about tools too. The only difference being price. I will buy the best tool I can afford. If I can only afford junk then I will save up until I can afford quality. I will not buy snap on tools for myself because it is just over kill. Craftsmans have always served me well and I have built several cars with mine. There is a difference in quality but I'm not using mine everyday.

HF has its place and I shop there. Zip ties and shrink wrap. I even bought a large drill from them but just to mix spackle and thinset etc, things like that. The second time I used it it was no longer variable speed and it is now prone to over heating half way through the spackle mixing. You get what you pay for I guess. Lol

EDIT: One thing I feel I must add on this subject. Never ever buy cheap pliers. I have and the quality of metal they are made of is terrible. They will let you down. I bought a pair of cheap angle dikes or some might call them nail pullers. The handles touched before they cut through a nail.
 
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Patfromny

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Hey Arch, you had mentioned spring over and under. What if you make a one inch spacer and leave the axel spring over. I know we drag racers used to take a leaf or two out and make up the difference with spacers made from cut sections of the leafs. Don't know if this will work but worth a head scratch. Lol
 

archbuilder

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Thanks for the thoughts Pat....but I think I came to a comprimise today which will work and let me keep the full 3500# capacity of the springs.

Naturally I had to work about half the day, I should throw away my phone! I also spent some time calling around and looking at axle options. I ended up stopping in Northern tool and picking up the axle they had and a couple hub kits. Very complete hub kit and easy to sort out which hubs you need with what axle. I will have to modify the axle and filp the pads upside down, and narrow them. But nothing an hour or two of welding and grinding won't fix. Guess I don't have to worry about de-greasing and de-rusting the old one now. I did also get by the steel place. By the time I was done it was late afternoon and I wasn't feeling great.....not sick but just had a little head ache and felt tired. So I decided to relax and get some rest. I'm feeling better now, and hopefully will be ready to go in the am. If nothing comes up at work, I have one errand in the morning, then I should be ready to go. Think I finally have everything rounded up.

Here is the proof, axle, hubs, leveled trailer, steel and rear tie-down brackets I fabed last night.









 

GA_Boater

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Good thing the trailer doesn't need to float lol!

Only if the tie downs are still hooked up. :rolleyes:

One thing I see on the old axle and may not be seeing on the new - Is there a brace from the upright to the axle tube?
 

archbuilder

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You are correct GA, the new one is set up for spring under. There was on the old one, apparently they didn't see a need for it on the new one. The new one seems to have a heavier casting for the hub.
 

gm280

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Arch, you are going to have to smear some mud and/or grease on the new axle before moving on. It looks too new. :facepalm:
 

gm280

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I'm sure there will be grease and mud on it soon enough.

It will look a lot better boxed.


Seeing your setup brings back memories when I rebuilt (actually I should say built) my boat trailer a year or so ago now. Without lots of clamps and a lot of measuring, it will never be right. And you already have both seen there. I actually really enjoyed building my trailer. Fun to cut metal and weld it. Post on... JMHO
 
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