Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

[archbuilder]

One thing that was nice to see when I was digging through the pallet of parts, was what good shape everything is in. I forgot most of the things like throttle, steering, etc are more or less bolt in and go. Makes getting it on the water this summer a little more reasonable!

 

[Mark72233]

Arch that looks like one of the two bolts that's attaches the rear of the block to the transom mounts. If I remember it right the thick metal washer goes on first then the metal spacer, push the bolt through the engine motors mounts but between the bottom of the engine motor mounts and the top of the transom mount is a thick spring washer and a fiber washer with a hole big enough that the spring sits in it. The engine mounts will crush these between the engine mounts and the transom mounts. The bolt travels through them but the nut doesn't look right either. Mine are longer top to bottom and made of aluminum I think. These nuts fit into the bottom of the transom mounts where they are designed to hold them while you tighten the bolts from the top. I will look for a pic.

 

[Mark72233]

Arch that is a different bolt then I was thinking it was. This is the one I was talking about.

 

[Mark72233]

Arch I can't think of any bolts on the transom mounts that had a spacer. There are the two lowest bolts that the sacrificial anodes screw on the outside. The next two have square washers on the inside. There are two short bolts towards the top that screw in from the inside of the transom. I think there are 8 fasteners but I can't remember any having spacers

 

[archbuilder]

Thanks Mark, I finally dug up a photo of bolt that goes from the flywheel cover / motor mount to the transom mounting bracket. It confirms what you said about the bolt goes from the top down, with the flat washer on top and the spacer right below it. You can see the shadow from the spacer under the washer in the photo. without it, there would be no shadow under the washer.



The spacer seems odd to me......other than maybe the spacer are part of a one size fits all kit, I don't see the purpose of the spacer. Why not use a shorter bolt? I don't recall the lock washer or the fiber washer. Surely I would have saved them if for only reference. The bolt and nut match all of the rest of the hardware in terms of finish, grade and general appearance. I wonder if there were different hardware kits over the years? Nome of them are aluminum for sure. Regardless looks like what i have works....so I am going to run with it on the mock up and add the fiber washer when I put it in for the final time. Thanks for all the input!

 

[archbuilder]

Looks like we will get the engine in on Thursday night. Tonight I was pondering the instrument panel. The gauges look to be in pretty good shape and the panel is a nice cast one. Assuming the gauges work, which I'm guessing they will, I'm lacking a few things. Mainly fuel and depth, any suggestions? I guess I could swap all of the gauges out and add some supplemental gauges in the dash. But I don't think the newer gauges will fit in the panel.

 

[JoshOnt]

Maybe do them as a small lip on top of the current gauges. With the two or find a place you could hide them and not see unless you look for them but that would depend on how often you use each gauge.

 

[archbuilder]

Thanks for the thoughts Josh. I am kind of lean towards the hiding them idea or put them off the the side someplace where they aren't front and center. I really guess I need to get the dash back in to start working through all that.

I spent this evening pulling the engine off the pallet and rigging it to the engine hoist. Why is there never a good place to attach the lift chains? I have two lifting eye on the block, but it naturally wanted to roll about 10 degrees to one side. After about 45 minutes of looking for attachment points and finding the right bolts. I have her hanging relatively flat.

This always makes me nervous, you have to get the oil pan about 4'-6" or so off the floor to clear the transom.....which means you have the engine dangling about 8' in the air! Did a test run and it was fine....but that it a good size chunk of cast iron swinging around!

I should have it back in tomorrow evening by this time.:bounce: One of my friends is coming over after work to help me stab it. This is going to be cool! Even if it is only temporary, this is a big mile stone! With the engine back in, I should be able to sort out the last of the unknowns / haven't figured it out things.

I have a little more work to do on the deck in front of the forward bulk head....I put it back the way it was from the factory, and I am still not happy with how it drains....or really doesn't drain. I have a plan to fix that this weekend.....noting like a little more foam and glass! Anyhow I am really excited to start figuring out the interior!

 

[GA_Boater]

What's the empty hole for? Ignition switch?

If you could find a matching gauge, fuel could go there. But what are the chances? I wouldn't want to mess up the dash panel.

Gauge sizes have been pretty much standard for years. If you could find a period matching style, replacement isn't impossible and there are combo gauges too. So one hole could have two functions, like fuel/amps. Probably a small aux panel with fuel and depth is best, though.

But the good news is thinking about instruments cuz that means the motor is going in!

Here is a Faria 4 banger gauge, This is extreme, but for an idea to save space. I don't know about saving the wallet.

 

[nurseman]

Usually the cool stuff is hard on the wallet...

 

[archbuilder]

Thanks for the ideas GA. I do like Faria, nice gauges...have them in Miss Morgan, just the single function ones.....for some reason I like having a bunch of gauges in her! There is something cool about having a bunch of gauges, "Houston we are readly for lift off"

I did find a NOS set of gauges, complete with the panel and instructions on ebay for $200. Thought about buying it and keeping my gauges for back up. I really do want to keep the factory look....I think it is a nice setup and important for the look I want in this boat. Funny how they didn't bother with a fuel gauge....guess when the boat stops you are out, lol! Looked around and I can't find a fuel gauge that matches, guess they just didn't make them. You are correct by the way, the hole is for the ignition. I'm leaning towards the auxiliary panel...

Nurseman you are so right about the cool stuff being hard on the wallet !

 

[GA_Boater]

If you want a panel full of gauges, you should one of these in the middle;

Oh heck - Go for full bore. The wallet will be a lot lighter. LOL

 

[Kiloecho]

If you want a panel full of gauges, you should one of these in the middle;

Oh heck - Go for full bore. The wallet will be a lot lighter. LOL

Steam gauges are becoming a thing of the past. I'm not convinced the new EFIS electronic instruments are better. My brother had a little Toyota station wagon that he'd an ADI in it, so why not have one in a boat?

 

[gm280]

GA_Boater. That aircraft cockpit panel(s) brings back memories. Before I retired, I helped set up that C5 Aircraft that crashed short of the runway years ago. No one was killed and the injured recovered as well. Our Programming Office managed to get the entire C5 Cockpit flown in and we cut it apart and refurbished it to fit in its own building. Imagine an entire front section of a C5 Aircraft sitting in a large room as an unique flight simulator. Then we had to mimic every part of the cockpit to simulate the actual C5 aircraft. It even had the normal feedbacks as it displayed simulated take offs, flights and landings. Every circuit had to function properly. No issue was over looked. Even the air conditioning systems had to work as usual.

Miles upon miles of wires, computer intervention and every possible circuit had to work like it was actually flying. Lots of circuit designs and mechanical adaptations to mimic the real aircraft while sitting still. The actual cockpit windows were even outfitted with large screen monitors to show flying terrains and even the controls, steering and engine controls worked and gave actual feedback and sounds like the real aircraft. An interesting problem was how to increase the resistance in the steering controls and aircraft structure as the aircraft sped up and slowed down and banked either direction or changed altitudes as well. It had to mimic the air flow forces over the flying surfaces as the aircraft changed attitudes. An amazing feat of engineering went into that simulator and it still is there and used daily as well. In fact it is the only true C5 simulator in the world.

There were many Engineers that made that all come together. I mean entire Computer Software offices worked on it for years to get it working properly. The number of Micro Processors running everything is amazing. We actually set it up to run existing and new software on it to verify flight compliance and similar actual real world software issues that crop up. Nothing better then the real thing to duplicate such issues. And it IS the real thing. It IS a master piece of Engineering Technology to see it in action. :thumb:

 

[archbuilder]

That maybe a little overkill GA . GM sounds like you got to work on a cool project!

Kilo,Im assuming you are referencing digital? I really like the vintage look of the original gauges, I just wish I could find a fuel gauge that matched.

I did make an offer on the NOS gauge set, we'll see what happens. Oddly, of all things it has a vacuum gauge instead of the trim gauge. Not sure why, but maybe one of you can enlighten me!

 

[gm280]

That maybe a little overkill GA . GM sounds like you got to work on a cool project!

Kilo,Im assuming you are referencing digital? I really like the vintage look of the original gauges, I just wish I could find a fuel gauge that matched.

I did make an offer on the NOS gauge set, we'll see what happens. Oddly, of all things it has a vacuum gauge instead of the trim gauge. Not sure why, but maybe one of you can enlighten me!

Arch, You could contact the manufacturer and see if they ever made a fuel gauge in that style. If so, then you could search for one of even see if they may have an NOS one laying around to sell you. But if they never made one, then you know not to continue looking and pick out something close. JMHO!


Oh, and I am very sorry for posting such a long comment that didn't have anything to do with your issues. :facepalm:

 

[bajaunderground]

I've heard you can check your fuel level by opening up the cap and using a match? Was I informed wrong?

 

[GA_Boater]

Staying on topic this time, Arch.

The vacuum gauge was only used on OMC Stringers.

Why? Because they suck. eep:

 

[JoshOnt]

I've heard you can check your fuel level by opening up the cap and using a match? Was I informed wrong?

I am not sure if you were or not, let me go give it a test.

 

[Kiloecho]

That maybe a little overkill GA . GM sounds like you got to work on a cool project!

Kilo,Im assuming you are referencing digital? I really like the vintage look of the original gauges, I just wish I could find a fuel gauge that matched.

I did make an offer on the NOS gauge set, we'll see what happens. Oddly, of all things it has a vacuum gauge instead of the trim gauge. Not sure why, but maybe one of you can enlighten me!

Arch, no after seeing GA_Boater's post of the ADI Attitude Director Indicator and the BUFF cockpit I was reminiscing back to the time I flew 727's and early Airbus 300-B4's. They used what we now refer to as "Steam Gauges". I actually preferred them to the new EFIS instrumentation in the newer airplanes I'm flying. Nothing better than a big old airspeed indicator with speed bugs on the side for your flap and slat retraction, and V speeds.

I was completely off topic, but maybe I can redeem myself before I get dinged for it. Here is a link to a service that may be able to help you out. I plan to use them when the time comes for may Arabian.

Cheers

http://www.kocianinstruments.com