Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?
Assembly line tips? I keep my large 5 gallon jugs in the house to stay warm. I get a 2 quart bucket and fill it with resin then take it in the garage with me. Then it is much easier to use the 16 oz of resin I need at a time since pouring from the 2 quart container is easy. I only kick 16oz at time.
The two biggest tips I can give so far are:
1. make sure your surface to glass is as smooth as possible, no PL buggers, no PB buggers no buggers or bumps of any kind.
2. get all kinds of resin rollers, fat ones, wide ones, corner rollers, pretty ones, ugly ones, etc Resin rollers make taking the air bubbles out so much easier.
Today I got the deck panels cut and test fit. I also did the last of the stringer glass work.
To start off with. This is the space I am working in. Too small and cramped. I plan on building a car port that is closed in on all sides but the front before doing this again to another boat.
Here are the aft 8 foot of deck. The covering over the engine area is a table I have stretched across the boat with my glass stuff on it.
You can't really see the lines in this picture, but in order to get the curve for the front 6 foot of deck I had to measure from center to each side every 2 inches. This worked well to give me a rough shape.
And here is the front part of the deck laid in place.
I think I am going to put the CSM on the bottom side of the deck and attached it to the boat while the CSMis still wet while also putting a nice coat of resin over the stringers. This way resin should flow down in to screw holes and help to hold the deck down. I am also going to dip the screws in resin before fastening. I might have to work faster putting the deck down, but this is why I went to so much trouble test fitting and trimming today.
