Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

[jigngrub]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

You will get galvanic corrosion if you don't cap that transom... but don't take my word for it, just leave it like that and watch.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

You will get galvanic corrosion if you don't cap that transom... but don't take my word for it, just leave it like that and watch.

Where? I don't understand?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Where? I don't understand?

I'm not sure I should tell you why and where when you've already ignored the people that have already recommended capping your transom... you'll just ignore me too.

Some people just have to find out the hard way, and I think you're one of them. The people that suggested you cap your transom knew what they were talking about, and you're too inexperienced to realize that.

If you cap your transom I'll show you why and where after you've capped it.


...btw, you should lose the double nuts on your motor mount bolts and replace them with stainless steel nyloc nuts instead.... or you can ignore that too.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I'm not sure I should tell you why and where when you've already ignored the people that have already recommended capping your transom... you'll just ignore me too.

Some people just have to find out the hard way, and I think you're one of them. The people that suggested you cap your transom knew what they were talking about, and you're too inexperienced to realize that.

If you cap your transom I'll show you why and where after you've capped it.


...btw, you should lose the double nuts on your motor mount bolts and replace them with stainless steel nyloc nuts instead.... or you can ignore that too.

I'm sorry, I already said that I was already going to seal up the seem where the wood extends up with butyl rubber?

Whitehead Industrial Hardware - Gutter & Flashing Sealant Butyl Rubber White Paintable 10.1 Oz

I can't do it right now because i don't have a trailer. I need to sell a few things and then I can buy a trailer.

The fiberglass was for sealing the upper part of the wood (already sealed with minwax) and to protect from physical abuse and bumping into it.

Reagrding the bolts, the stainless steel nyloc nuts I bought and used ruined the threads on the bolt!

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Reagrding the bolts, the stainless steel nyloc nuts I bought and used ruined the threads on the bolt!

That does not sound good at all. You need to replace the damaged bolt(s) before you lose that motor in the lake!

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

That does not sound good at all. You need to replace the damaged bolt(s) before you lose that motor in the lake!

LOL Thanks! I already replaced the damage bolt. just one bolt was ruined when I was BACKing it off...strange...i did put it on right

The Use of Two Nuts to Prevent Self Loosening of Fasteners

Article regarding the double nut procedure.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I'm sorry, I already said that I was already going to seal up the seem where the wood extends up with butyl rubber?

Whitehead Industrial Hardware - Gutter & Flashing Sealant Butyl Rubber White Paintable 10.1 Oz

I can't do it right now because i don't have a trailer. I need to sell a few things and then I can buy a trailer.

The fiberglass was for sealing the upper part of the wood (already sealed with minwax) and to protect from physical abuse and bumping into it.

Reagrding the bolts, the stainless steel nyloc nuts I bought and used ruined the threads on the bolt!

The gutter and flashing sealant will work!... for about 15 minutes.

You bought the wrong thread size on the nyloc nuts and that's why it chewed the thread on your bolts.

Double nutting isn't dependable, but don't take my word for it... you'll see.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

The gutter and flashing sealant will work!... for about 15 minutes.

You bought the wrong thread size on the nyloc nuts and that's why it chewed the thread on your bolts.

Double nutting isn't dependable, but don't take my word for it... you'll see.

The nut went on perfectly fine, but when i went to take it off....no go. How can i buy the wrong thread size? It wouldn't even thread on if it was the wrong size?

I'm not trying to arrogant or ignorant but I needed to get the boat in the lift so i can buy a right sized trailer. The trailer I was using was ok but too small when i put the motor on. I can't do anything about it ATM. I'm not retired nor have trillions of spending cash at my hand. Aluminum is expensive.

GEEZ, I never said I was done with the boat!

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

GEEZ, I never said I was done with the boat!

That's the true spirit of a boatowner!

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

What's better the Twist or snap in drain plugs? My drain plug kinda looks like this

drain plug is leaking in jon boat i just bought POST #10

I'm using a 3/4 PVC drain plugs with 2 o-rings but it still leaks D: I measured the hole and it came out to .950 something. Would a 1 inch snap in drain work even though there are threads on the things? The threads are about gone D:

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I think it's 'designed' to use a SOLID screw in drain plug, that once underway, you remove it, and it auto bails.. That's what the 'C-collar' is for....

There probably isn't enough thickness to the thru hole to properly seal a rubber compression style T or Snap style drain plug like these:

And your's looks like it's more of a garboard style drain:

Does that look/sound about right?

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

+1. The drain you're showing is called a "scupper valve". I have one just like it on my boat. It designed to be plugged from the inside most of the time. However, you can remove the plug once you get up to speed and water will drain out of the back. It works well, just be sure to replace the plug when you slow down ! To be honest, I just keep mine plugged all the time when I'm on the water. I use the style of plug in the second pic above and it works great and you can get them anywhere for about $5.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I think it's 'designed' to use a SOLID screw in drain plug, that once underway, you remove it, and it auto bails.. That's what the 'C-collar' is for....

There probably isn't enough thickness to the thru hole to properly seal a rubber compression style T or Snap style drain plug like these:

And your's looks like it's more of a garboard style drain:

Does that look/sound about right?

So what's supposed to go in that style of drain plug? The 3/4 drain plug leaks still! I don't understand D: I want something I can remove easily. I don't think the garboard style would even work because it would leak around the threads.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

+1. The drain you're showing is called a "scupper valve". I have one just like it on my boat. It designed to be plugged from the inside most of the time. However, you can remove the plug once you get up to speed and water will drain out of the back. It works well, just be sure to replace the plug when you slow down ! To be honest, I just keep mine plugged all the time when I'm on the water. I use the style of plug in the second pic above and it works great and you can get them anywhere for about $5.

You use the snap in handle type drain plug? I might try it....

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

So what's supposed to go in that style of drain plug? The 3/4 drain plug leaks still! I don't understand D: I want something I can remove easily. I don't think the garboard style would even work because it would leak around the threads.

Since you mention that the internal threads are about gone in the hole thru your hull, I don't think there are any easy answers.

Since the plug you're currently using is expecting to be used in a smooth thru hole, and the threads aren't smooth, yeah it'll probably leak.

W/ galled threads, the 'correct' screw in type plug won't work either, if it screws in, it's likely to leak, too. But I seem to remember going down this road before around these parts & you tried several plugs, but none fit, correct?

Cover the existing hole & weld in a bung thru the transom to accept the typical rubber compression plugs...

Over drill the existing hole & weld in a bung to accept the compression plug. It will likely need to stick up into the interior of the boat some, and protrude below the hull, both of which will likely the self bailing feature of that C-collar. But it likely won't leak.

It's an aluminum plate w/ the existing hole, right? Barely over drill the existing hole, and tap new threads that 'fit' a new screw in plug. Find a .9625 +/- screw plug, and match the tapped screw threads to the plug. Make sense?


I don't have any experience doing any of that ^^^^ but it seems 1 of those choices might work....

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Any type of rubber stopper/compression type plug needs a ferrule/tube to be inserted in to work properly.

I have this drain plug in my boat and really like it, you always know where the plug is and it screws in and out easily:
T-H Marine Drain Plug | Bass Pro Shops

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Jig: The design of that plug, kind of makes it a transom mount, and it screws in from the outside, correct?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Jig: The design of that plug, kind of makes it a transom mount, and it screws in from the outside, correct?

Yup and Yup.

Are we talkin' thru the bottom of the hull here?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Are we talkin' thru the bottom of the hull here?

Yep, but it doesn't sound like the existing thru hull hole is working (sealing enough not to leak) w/ either a rubber compression or a screw in plug. So 1 of my suggestions was to cover the existing, & go typical thru transom, so 1 like yours would work for that. I really like the idea of a captive plug, it is removeable though right? In case the plug portion needs to be, you don't have to pull the entire garboard mount out....

Now I need to see if I can find the Arkansas Traveler's remote lever for a transom drain plug. It was very interesting when I drug the junk hull to the shop for our guys to practice on...........

Back to the problem at hand:

From this above:

I'm using a 3/4 PVC drain plugs with 2 o-rings but it still leaks D: I measured the hole and it came out to .950 something. Would a 1 inch snap in drain work even though there are threads on the things? The threads are about gone D:

I thought he'd tried the compression style already, but reading it quoted here now, it sounds like maybe a plumbing plug of some sort w/ 2 O-rings. Or maybe just the screw in portion of a plug setup like Jigs...

And I noted earlier that I think we've talked about this plug problem here before, but it is VERY possible I'm thinking of another thread, I didn't scan back over the 1st 250+ posts here.... Not that it matters, except to confirm there have been several attempts to solve the leaking drain plug, and make sure we aren't re-covering the same solutions that didn't work.....

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I'd slap an epoxy buttered aluminum patch over that bottom of the hull hole drain and rivet that thing so quick it wouldn't be funny. Then I'd install a conventional drain through the transom like todays boats have.

There's no sense in trying to make an outdated design work when there are much better alternatives.